Well then. How do i bleed the clutch?

[Madracingalley]

1994 5-Spd. with 4.0L V-6

I see all these clutch problems being solved by bleeding the clutch so how do i do this

 

[CheapThrillB2]

just like bleeding brakes...

Best way i have found is to take the clutch master off the firewall and turn it upside down and bleed it by hand. so your pushing the rod up into it. The angle that the master sits at when bolted in place is perfect for collecting air in it and making bleeding about impossible.

 

[Madracingalley]

Thank you

 

[metalmacguyver]

A 2nd person makes it alot easier too.

 

[Cool Javelin]

So, just how far do you have to turn it "upside down?"

I am having difficulties bleeding the clutch and I read elsewhere the "nose down" angle doesn't work as it traps an air bubble (makes sense, I guess).

Right now, I have the real wheels up on ramps, and the front wheels are on blocks, but are lower then the rear.

Can I roll the truck off the ramps/blocks, and put the front wheels on ramps and expect to be able to bleed it OK?

Clearly, if you tip the master cyl too far nose up, the fluid will poor out of the reservoir, so there must be a happy angle.

Mark.

 

[Elutheros]

It's not fun, but it works.

 

[ericbphoto]

So, just how far do you have to turn it "upside down?"

I am having difficulties bleeding the clutch and I read elsewhere the "nose down" angle doesn't work as it traps an air bubble (makes sense, I guess).

Right now, I have the real wheels up on ramps, and the front wheels are on blocks, but are lower then the rear.

Can I roll the truck off the ramps/blocks, and put the front wheels on ramps and expect to be able to bleed it OK?

Clearly, if you tip the master cyl too far nose up, the fluid will poor out of the reservoir, so there must be a happy angle.

Mark.

Leave the vehicle where it is. Disconnect the clutch pedal from the clutch master cylinder. Then unbolt the master cylinder for the firewall. Wiggle, rotate, etc. to get it out off the firewall so you can turn the master cylinder upside down. The hoses swivel. So you should not have to spill fluid from the reservoir. You want the air bubbles to travel up to the reservoir.

It's not the easiest job in the world. But it's doable.

 

[adsm08]

So, just how far do you have to turn it "upside down?"

The master cylinder should be below the transmission.

 

[cmattina]

https://therangerstation.com/tech_library/bleedclutch.shtml this post outlines how to do it, but nowhere in the post does it mention removing the master and putting it upside down. So... which way is the best way?

 

[Cool Javelin]

OK, I made it work. Damn, what a PITA to bleed the system.

First, a gripe. Is it really so hard to design a hydraulic system such that, always, the fluid runs downhill, and the system would AUTOMATICALLY bleed? I had a '63 VW bug, and the front brakes were designed this way. Air in the line, no problem, just keep pumping the brakes and all the air fed into the master cyl.

Now, the way I HAD to do it.

Remove the M/C from the firewall (break the little plastic retaining clip between the pedal and the push rod) risk breaking the clutch safety switch. (1 hour.)

Hang the system (sans slave cyl) from a poll such that everything runs downhill, and tap the line for a while working any air up the line, and then press the pushrod until all the air bubbles out and the push rod no longer seems to move. (5 minutes.)

Reinstall the M/C and line back into the truck, temporarily loosing the little plastic sleeve over the quick disconnect to the slave cylinder and stressing it broke. NP, found it all was OK. (1 more hour.)

Drive another car to the Ford dealer and buy another plastic clippie for the pedal to push rod. (1 day, $3.25.) By the way, I got the last one in Bellingham WA. so if you need one from them, sorry.

Overall working time, 2 hours. Overall down time 2 days.

This could have been a simple 5 minute job with just a little design foresight.

Mark.

 

[Josh B]

They redesigned those systems later Cool, but few vehicles ever had it installed

The simple change was? hahaha drumroll please

The early version, the line towards the trans took a right turn(going out the side, a half inch or so from the end) making it near impossible to bleed, The revision had that line coming out the top, closer to the end, allowing that last bubble to escape