Well THAT'S a problem 05 2.3 2Wdr

[DaveH]

Finally got this dang engine out. Having not ever pulled a Ranger engine I was overly cautious. Took me about 5x as long as anyone having worked on these would have. I knew this was a blown engine. I didn't know just how bad it was. The Pan damage was hidden by the front cross member and steering linkages. WOW, not even waiting to tear it down. Picking up a core tomorrow.

 

[RonD]

WOW, that was one BIG mouse

I was going to switch over to a cheese based oil product, but NOT NOW

 

[DaveH]

WOW, that was one BIG mouse

I was going to switch over to a cheese based oil product, but NOT NOW

I'm really really curious to see how much damage is in this engine. Tear down in the next couple of days.

 

[pjtoledo]

ouch
I see you had to remove the oil filter adapter. I did too, dang frame got in the way.

take lots of pics, we love carnage

 

[DaveH]

ouch
I see you had to remove the oil filter adapter. I did too, dang frame got in the way.

take lots of pics, we love carnage

Yea, I watched a bunch of videos and one guy suggested that. Glad I did. I should/could have removed those motor mounts too. Dumb ass here didn't pull two bolts and the transmission separated really easy after that. lol

 

[DaveH]

So I picked up the "Core" engine. The seller said it was running fine, thought the noise he heard was the engine but turned out to be a bad exhaust to pipe connection.
So the real question. Slap the 190K motor and have a driver for $350 bucks, or got the full meal deal route and rebuild. I leaning towards (I've already go it out rebuild it!).

 

[pjtoledo]

my 2005 ran perfect up to 300,000 miles then the rings in cyl # 1 lost tension and oil consumption began to be a problem.
when I finally pulled it last spring it had 367,500 miles and never been opened up.

on your new engine I would run a compression test and take it from there.
new water pump, rear seal, t-stat, PCV, hoses etc.

 

[Roert42]

I second pj. Check compression. If it’s not great, just re ring it, and send it.

 

[DaveH]

my 2005 ran perfect up to 300,000 miles then the rings in cyl # 1 lost tension and oil consumption began to be a problem.
when I finally pulled it last spring it had 367,500 miles and never been opened up.

on your new engine I would run a compression test and take it from there.
new water pump, rear seal, t-stat, PCV, hoses etc.

Sounds like a great Idea! I'll do just that.

 

[DaveH]

Today, I charged a battery. Then took the pressure plate and flywheel off from the manual engine. I put the flex plate and the starter from the blown engine (auto trans) on the other engine i picked up yesterday. Both engines are 2.3 one from an 05 the other 06. I tried cranking the engine on a stand. Couldn't do the compression test. The engine slowly turned over, the 4th cylinder pushed about 90 psi before the cranking slowed so much that I can't rely on the test. Could be the battery is weak, the starter is bad or jump wire wasn't big enough. The starter was from a running truck so I'm not sure it would be the starter. I used #12 romex as the jump wire so I think it was definitely large enough.. On top of that I suspect the engine is bad anyway. There was a sheen of oil on top of the #3 piston. The guy I bought the engine from claimed he drove the truck to his place and it was running fine. I'm thinking about tearing down the blown engine to a bare block to see just how bad it is. I'm probably going to take the best crank from the two, best block and build an engine from both. Have all internal donor parts machined and have the pistons, rings, and gaskets from a rebuild kit.

 

[pjtoledo]

did it turn over by hand? all plugs out, throttle held open?

 

[DaveH]

All plugs were out, Turned over by hand, I did not hold the throttle open.

 

[pjtoledo]

throttle won't affect cranking, it just gives more air for better compression test results.

 

[rubydist]

#12 wire is way too small to run the starter motor.

 

[DaveH]

#12 wire is way too small to run the starter motor.

used a jumper cable for the hot side to battery, negative from battery to case and #12 from hot to the smaller one. This appeared to be much larger than the OEM wire. Maybe I'm jumping it wrong.