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weird engine stalling


Scott1973

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ok gang here goes
im in oregon we get cold overnights
4 weeks ago i was warming my 89 2.9l and it just died
restarted it and she ran for 20 seconds and died .
the fuel pump had been sounding like it was on it s way out and i had the replacement on the bench so i just figured it was gone
replaced it then . no start no spark
checked all connections power to coil voltage was good so must be ignition module
now stay with me here i could not get the screws out while it was in the truck
so i had to remove the distributer but i set her on dtc #1 and marked the dis. , cap and rotor and the back of the intake for when i restabbed it
both screw heads were stripped by prev owner and i notice the 6 wires going to the module connector had been crimped to a new connector
i finally removed the screws ordered new ones online
the module had zero thermal paste left if there ever was any and the module housing was cracked
replaced module got new cap and rotor since i was that deep already
cut out crimped sections 1 by 1 soldered and heat shrink tubes all 6 wires
reassembled eveything pulled the spout connector and set the timing to 10btdc as my book states and rpm warm to 750
rehooked spout connector and was done for the night..
drove to work next day about 7 miles and intermittently it stalls no rmp signal on the dash. lights heater radio all working
pulled over she started right up and did it again i just bumped the key and rpm is back made it to work and back home was worse checked for vac leaks unplugged ever sensor i can get to 1 at a time looking for changes
the tps once removed stalled engine .
now i let her idle and randomly she stumbles hard and sometimes stalls
im afraid to drive it
any ideas ????
 


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gaz

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Scott,

1st thought:

Does this have an automatic transmission?

2nd thought:

go to the 3 main power relays u der the hood (ecc system/fuel system/WOT). Take a HARD disserning look at each wire, each connection, take them apart and look for loose connections or broken tabs; while the engine is running take them one at a time and move them around, different angles, shake a little, twist. See if you can get a relay to fail by physically moving it.
 
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Scott1973

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manual tranny
went through the relays like you stated no change
its a goofy thing
cold its fine once its warm just stalls and comes back
or sometimes just idiling and shuts off
 

gaz

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Scott,

When something like this happens, I have to relook at the last corrective action I performed; in this case, you did 2:

a) Replaced the fuel pump
b) Replaced and rewired your ignition module

I would go back through and inspect my work only in my head I would have the thought, "this is where the fault is" instead of, "this is what I just repaired".
 

Scott1973

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both are done gone through
only dies when warmed up
i am at the point of sending it to scrap yard
 

Scott1973

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ok update time
recap replaced ecm , plugs wires cap rotor restabbed and reset timing and idle to factory settings 10bdtc and 750 rpm warm
reddid and then rechecked connector for ecm to replace butt connectors with soldered and heat shrink
today replaced both valve cover pcv grommets they were trashed ..... possible vac leak sourc
replaced all vac lines on motor charcoal canister and damper in the airfilter box
replaced aic sensor then after running for 20 minutes with saame rpm drop and sometimes stall replaced the temp sensor
cleand mass airflow sensor that bottle is 12 bucks dang
removed and cleaned throttle body new gasket
same damn issue
checked the throttle valve sensor on the intake its cheecking ok i unplug no change went around 1 at a time every sensor i can reach unplug while running
not much difference anyplace idle climbs a bit settels and runs then stumbles
coil checks out as per the haynes book
spark tester has bright blue spark i can get it to over 1/2 inch gap before starts to miss checked at coil and #1 and 4 plugs
what have i missed please help
 

gaz

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Scott,

Perhaps you should consider an Ignition Module relocation. Also, sometimes new parts are bad.
 
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ok update time
recap replaced ecm , plugs wires cap rotor restabbed and reset timing and idle to factory settings 10bdtc and 750 rpm warm
reddid and then rechecked connector for ecm to replace butt connectors with soldered and heat shrink
today replaced both valve cover pcv grommets they were trashed ..... possible vac leak sourc
replaced all vac lines on motor charcoal canister and damper in the airfilter box
replaced aic sensor then after running for 20 minutes with saame rpm drop and sometimes stall replaced the temp sensor
cleand mass airflow sensor that bottle is 12 bucks dang
removed and cleaned throttle body new gasket
same damn issue
checked the throttle valve sensor on the intake its cheecking ok i unplug no change went around 1 at a time every sensor i can reach unplug while running
not much difference anyplace idle climbs a bit settels and runs then stumbles
coil checks out as per the haynes book
spark tester has bright blue spark i can get it to over 1/2 inch gap before starts to miss checked at coil and #1 and 4 plugs
what have i missed please help
Hi Scott I have the 1988 2.9 and am in the thick of it, too. It sounds like you're approaching it in a thoughtful way. For about $30 you can get a Ford OBD 1 scanner, it plugs into a connector near the relays on the passenger side wall of the engine bay. My connector is red, idk about yours. I love this truck, I encourage you to get that and do some more diagnostics so you can rule out electrical and sensors in a conclusive way.

Mine does have a similar issue. I also cleaned and replaced some of those components you mentioned but I think it's more of an internal issue. I attempted a head gasket change 2 weeks ago but was thwarted by broken exhaust manifold bolts. I'm reattempting in the coming week and I expect that blowby in some form is messing up my air/fuel ratio or just completely fouling the spark plugs (which are relatively new but already aren't looking great). My hope of all hopes is that it's not my piston rings/cylinder bore. But it might be.

Some questions: is she a daily drive? Or, do you have some leeway to work on her or are you pretty crunched to get it done or get rid? Have you run a compression test? Have you done a fuel pressure test? If it's a vacuum leak, the regulator can leak internally. Either tester should be available for rent at a parts store.

Maybe that can give some insight to what you're dealing with. Lastly, always keep in mind that an engine only needs a few things mechanically to run: air, fuel, compression, timing and spark; then of course there's the computer and sensors and grounding. A factory service manual may have testing procedures for each sensor.
 

Bird76Mojo

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TFI module gets hot and one of the connections separates. It cools a little and the connection is made again.

Only use Motorcraft TFI modules when replacing. Also, relocate the TFI for longevity. I get them from the junkyard.
 


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