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Water meth

remington115

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Has anyone done water meth in there ranger if so was it worth it, did the fuel mileage go up, power,torque? i want to get really good mileage. i drive like 500 miles every two weeks and i want better fuel mileage.:icon_confused:
 


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I heard methanol (assume you dont mean methamphetamine LOL) wreaks havic eating away every thing it comes in contact with over time
 

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My credo
If you can't go through it or around it, then go over it.
water meth injection (WMI) has been used successfully on Turbo and S/C application as another form of cooling for high boost applications.

it works really good with Diesel for lowering EGT.

I don't know that I would run it on a daily driver...
 

rurouni20xx

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to be honest ive seen the setups on other vehicles for hardcore racing (14 seconds and under drag cars/drift vehicles) but the amount of work/setup and cost altogether will kill the bank. methanol is similar to ethanol, or any other type of alcohol for that matter, when it burns it makes a sugar. this sugar eats the aluminum heads, top of the pistons, even your intake and exhaust ports. oxygenated racing fuels do the same thing, i rebuild dirtbikes and atvs that use it, let me tell you when you see half the piston and intake port and chamber eaten in half it makes you wonder why they run it in the first place. all the setups ive seen are built like this: first thing you need to do to run it is have your fuel system leaned (stoich on alcohol is around 16:1 id have to look it up for the actual number), then your pistons have to be changed to high compression/forged (alcohol doesnt like below 12.8:1 compression in most cases can vary with chamber design). ignition system upgrades are a touchy subject on this forum but it is recommended to handle the extra compression. thats what is the minimal requirements to run alcohol as a primary fuel. if your talking adding it to the stock system (like a shot of wet nos but continuously metered and fed) you will still have the alcohol damage inside the engine just not as quickly, and youll have to tune the engine out for it. the requirements for that are a secondary tank for the methanol, a secondary fuel rail with injectors for the meth, fuel lines, fuel pump, pressure regulator, and a piggyback computer to control the secondary injectors as the stock computer will not handle two sets of injectors. the other thing you have to weigh is how much are you wanting to inject into the engine, then being able to tune it for the addition. ive seen this done with water meth and wetnos setups for extra power while driving. the amount of fuel has to be increased to richen the mix as the alcohol/nos oxidizes the fuel too quickly and makes for pinging, ultimately your looking at using more gas (crappier mpg) for a slight power gain (20hp maximum) while driving and not only having to fill up with high octane gas (higher price) your also going to have to fill your water meth tank/nos bottle when you fill with gas (rediculous amount of money). all in all its deemed not worth it across the board. the honda guys experimented with it in the mid 90s as a cheap 20hp that turned into not so cheap power gain, the b18/d16y benefitted more from a cold air intake larger throttlebody/intake headers hi flow cat/muffler and a good tune. cheaper across the board, good useable power without the effects of alcohol/nos shortening the life of the engine and was good for 18hp in those engines. our 2.3 rangers on the other hand its easier to boost it for power than the majority of n/a tuning. is that your truck in the picture? you want better mileage id recommend smaller tires removing the heavy stuff (larger bumpers) and aluminum wheels. if you have a lift kit installed (suspension not body) the extra driveshaft strain from the larger angle creates a friction loss and you lose mileage there as well. you may even want to consider a regear depending on your trans/shift pattern. my 92 2.3 has a standard m50d trans and 3.73 gears i get around 24 mpg hwy while using oil. i have 215/70r14s installed that also lessen my rolling resistance and a free flowing intake/exhaust system. something else check your wheel bearings for slack and make sure your brakes arent too tight they will increase drag and reduce mpg as well.
 
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socsmm6

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you drive 500 miles every 2 weeks? dude thats only 12000 miles a year. i drive more than that and don't go nowhere. my dodge gets 13 mpg and just bought a 93 ranger that gets about 23 mpg and I am happy. if you need more than that get a small car.
 

Frank The Tank

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I live 5 miles from work, and I drive twice as much as you.....

water meth is not worth it on a stock gasser.
I ran it on a sled puller, and had it street tuned...... you wont' get what you are wanting from your 2.3 with water meth.

you could do a lot of better mods a lot cheaper.

Frank
 

VlvtnRbt

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I have used water injection, as a last resort for octane boost on a carburated Hi Comp motor before 93-94 octane (and notorious PEMEX octane issues) gas was available. Keep in mind this was also done by both sides in WW2 also as a last resort.
 

Frank The Tank

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I have used water injection, as a last resort for octane boost on a carburated Hi Comp motor before 93-94 octane (and notorious PEMEX octane issues) gas was available. Keep in mind this was also done by both sides in WW2 also as a last resort.
Congrats!!! but how is that pertinent to a stock 2.3??

Frank
 

remington115

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well you guys might drive more but im also a poor college student. but anyways i guess im not going to do it. i do have an exhaust, k n filter, and has 4.10 gears and soild drive shaft. i know my tires are a little big(31s) but just asking if this would help mpg.
 

03ranger4x4

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Congrats!!! but how is that pertinent to a stock 2.3??

Frank
probably becuase it was a LAST resort, lol, so obviously theres better things that can be done
 

rurouni20xx

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remington lets just say the setups i seen installed like mentioned above costed in excess of 10k. go down a tire size or two and see if that helps. also the 410s make your rpms higher thruout the gears without the larger tires. my truck came stock with 373s i cruise 4th gear 60mph averaging 21mpg on the 215/70r14s. 5th doesnt feel good til around 75. im running an open filter, catless (previous owner removed i do not recommend removing it i believe i can get better mileage with one) exhuast with 40 inch glasspack before a 40 series vx copy, 2 1/4 piping all the way back. i also have no a/c as well, (again previous owner removed) and no loss from driving the a/c clutch. if you have to use more throttle to move it, theres your problem. i cruise constantly around 1/4 to 1/2 throttle and even drive in town averaging 15mpg, and my truck uses oil too.
 

VlvtnRbt

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I got mine for 29.95 clearance at PAW in 1983. It consisted of an hobbs vacuum switch , (0" vacuum closed ),a hobbs pressure switch some plastic hose, a plastic fittng to hold a brass jet, and a windshield washer tank and motor. The way it worked was that the power from the ignition went to the pressure switch which was plumbed into the engine oil pressure system then power went to the vacuum switch then it turned on the washer pump. In this way when the engine was running and engine vacuum dropped to zero (full throttle, or accelerating) water was pumped into the air cleaner. Through the fog of 25 years I believe the smallest jet ,which I used was .010 I still had a problem with too much water being injected at times. I was in New Mexico at the time and most of my driving at something over a mile high and average pump octane available was 86-88, to get power out of my engine I needed to run a ton of spark advance, hence the need for octane boost. The 2 liter pinto motor is not far removed from the 2.3 motor
 

rurouni20xx

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I got mine for 29.95 clearance at PAW in 1983. It consisted of an hobbs vacuum switch , (0" vacuum closed ),a hobbs pressure switch some plastic hose, a plastic fittng to hold a brass jet, and a windshield washer tank and motor. The way it worked was that the power from the ignition went to the pressure switch which was plumbed into the engine oil pressure system then power went to the vacuum switch then it turned on the washer pump. In this way when the engine was running and engine vacuum dropped to zero (full throttle, or accelerating) water was pumped into the air cleaner. Through the fog of 25 years I believe the smallest jet ,which I used was .010 I still had a problem with too much water being injected at times. I was in New Mexico at the time and most of my driving at something over a mile high and average pump octane available was 86-88, to get power out of my engine I needed to run a ton of spark advance, hence the need for octane boost. The 2 liter pinto motor is not far removed from the 2.3 motor
you mean your ran a dry water/meth injection system? the 2.3 is an overbore 2.0, so naturally they are pretty close. was your truck fuel injected or carb/distributor? if we were to run anything like this wed have to program it and the tuners are more costly on the efi whereas carb you change jets and move the distributor cap to increase timing. lot easier and less costly but not as efficient as fi. the fog system you speak of is a cheap way we run nos in some cars. the prob with that is if you dont richen up the tune drastically it oxidizes too much dries the oil off the valves and siezes the valve in the head. interference motors thats not good, the 2.0/2.3/2.5 (2.5 is stroker 2.3) isnt as bad but getting the valve out of the head is a bit of a pain to say the least.
 

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