Want to Upgrade 2000 Ranger to Much Brighter Headlights, Any Recommendations?

[gaz]

Kudos to The Uncle Gump,

I failed to correctly describe the process.

One relay IS for the low beams and the other IS for the hi beams. Thank you for identifying that point specific. Four relay could be used, I chose to use just the 2, since it is impossible to overload the 20amp relays or power supply fuse using legal 55w bulbs with only 2 loads/relay.

The combination of isolating the bulb power circuit with relays powered directly from the battery, and increasing the NEW wire gage can improve the supplied current to the bulbs by nearly 60%.

**That is alatta Mora powers Babi!**. You, will see the difference.

 

[gaz]

Rumblecloud,

See thread titled "SEEIN BEIN".

I did a write up on this and included every item source and spec. I will search out the thread name and edit into this response.

Also, I went to some length to use the best components I could, this home built harness could be done for just under $30 but one of the key improvements is ending with an isolated 10*g head light harness.

See thread titled "SEEIN BEIN".

 

[SenorNoob]

I've had good luck with the cheap pre-made headlight relay kits. Like this.

They make HUGE difference on old trucks. I've used 3 of them now. And the difference is night and day. LOL

 

[gaz]

**SenorNoob** is 100% correct! On a 20-30 year old platform (chasis, wires and switches), replacing and isolating the headlight power circuit can be accomplished with a much more inexpensive and super FAST H4 replacement eBay harness installation.

 

[O No 3.0!]

There is less resistance in 12 ga wire than in 10 ga wire. Just saying. 12 ga wire will carry plenty of power to run the lights.The isolated ground is probably helping more than anything. 55 watts is only about 4 amps, so 12 or 14 ga wire will carry it easily.

 

[gaz]

@O No 3.0!
Sorry but 10g wire presents less resistance than 12g wire to a circuit. You are completely correct that 12g is more than adequate for the load; the reason to use 10g is to take advantage of the reduced resistance and Ohm's law, V=IR.

In this circuit, since the Voltage is the constant, if the Resistance is decreased, the (I)current must increase. This is how the improved light circuit is able to make yield more light with the same bulb, the increased current through the larger 10g conductor.

 

[franklin2]

One of the reasons this modified relay system works is Ford's choice in wiring. They used the minimum wire size to get the job done. If they could save a dollar on each truck, they patted themselves on the back. Of course when you build thousands of trucks, that is thousands of dollars.

 

[superj]

same with chevy, dodge, and all the other manufacturers though

 

[BillinVA]

BillRod,

You may be surprised what improvements can be made 100% legal, even with stock bulbs. The trick is to improve your vehicles ability to deliver the highest possible current to the bulb.

Your rig is 22 years old, the wiring that supplies your lights current is 18g at best and has a few loads and switches between the battery and the bulb. The primary improvement is to build a new, small circuit, that only does one thing, deliver the strongest possibly undisturbed current to your bulbs using new better spec, higher gauge wire, controlled by the original light switch and wires.

To accomplish this I splice into the headlight wiring approximately 18" from the head light, closest to the battery; this become the on/off power for the new circuit (this dramatically reduces the light load on the factory headlight switch).

This power turns on a one relay for the passenger side and another relay for the driver's side using underground waterproof insulated 10* gauge multi-strand copper wiring. The relays are powered directly from the battery with 20ah fuse. Each relay grounded and powering it's own headlamp.

You can measure the light output before and after, YOU WILL NOT BELIEVE the improvement.

After your new harness is built and operational, you can get well made legal bulbs and improve the light out put even more. I live in Washington, the most powerful headlight bulb that I can legally use has max of 55w on high beam. Phillips and Hella make some great bulbs that will not break the bank. I get mine from Summit Racing for under $4 each and carry a set of spares ($16 well spent).

The new harness can cost:
$5, 1 fuse
$14, 2 relays
$7.31, 10 feet of 10g red
$7.31, 10 feet of 10g black
$17, Special crimp tool
$8, box of gold plated connectors
$12, 12' Conduet
$8, 8 rolls of Tape
$16, 4 Hella bulbs (2 spares)

Under $100, no problem; you could go super cheap a buy a premade harness off eBay but getting all 10g wiring and gold plated connectors will not be part of it.

This is highly effective. I have done this for years even on relatively new cars, and on all my older vehicles that could take European E-Code conversion replaceable bulb halogen headlights. Rally supply vendors used to have dual relays (I believe Hella) that you could use one on each side for H and L beams. If using over wattage bulbs, it is best for each bulb to have its own relay.

New cars have moved to LEDs and at the same time use lighter wiring to save weight.

You will notice a clear difference with a relay and heavy guage harness on a 1997 Ranger with OEM bulbs and headlights (assuming they are not cloudy). Interestingly my 1997 Ranger headlight lenses are still crystal clear.