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Walk me through changing differential carriers this afternoon…


PetroleumJunkie412

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Ford's axle housings are usually pretty consistent. I would start by taking backlash measurements BEFORE disassembly as already stated, move the ring to the new carrier, and then put it in with that carrier's original shims in their original locations and recheck it.

The shims should have their thicknesses printed on them somewhere, you can also compare the two sets. It is unlikely they will be the same, but it's worth a shot.

If you cannot get the correct settings with the shims you have I'd just order a set of Yukon's build-a-shim seals and be done. Remember when fixing backlash add or subtract from each side as needed to place the carrier where it needs to be. When setting pre-load add to both sides equally.
Theeeeeeeeeeres my moment of zen. Well. Part of it.

I need to let that marinate a minute.

 


PetroleumJunkie412

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I threw a Yukon Grizzly carrier in my explorer 8.8 on the '90 and I didn't have to do anything goofy... checked backlash at .015" before disassembly, new carrier bearings and installed with the shims on the same side that they were before and the backlash was .005", loosened the bearing caps and wacked the ring gear with a dead blow side to side to seat things and it came to .009". Then I put some antisieze (I don't have prussian blue handy, work with what ya got...) on some teeth and ran it around to check the pattern and it was reasonably close to where it was on both sides...
Theeeeres another.

I need to let that marinate a minute.

 

19Walt93

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If the backlash changed when he whacked it, it's shimmed too loose and has no preload. Bearing failure will follow.
 

scotts90ranger

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That would explain why the bearings were worn when I pulled it apart... luckily the '90 isn't a daily driver, I think I've maybe put 40k miles on it in 10 years since I put that axle in... and I think I was being cheap and reused all the bearings that were on the open carrier on the regear. I was with a succubus at the time...
 

Eddo Rogue

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Ok...I'm seeing that...

What all do I need to acquire?
Ive done a few, with help....

You will need a magnetic dial indicator to set backlash...
And the paint shit to read gear mesh pattern, find a good youtube video on that.

Also a pry bar and BFH, preferably brass. and lots of brake cleaner.

I would definitely keep track of the shims. and maybe get a new bearing and shim kit. Might wanna replace the ring and pinion while at it...I always went with new guts when swapping out an open diff.

Its not rocket science but experience does help when it comes to getting the backlash and gear pattern right with minimal attempts.

Also a little trick I was taught is give a few wacks to the pinion gear crush sleeve before installing it, helps it "crush" during installation.

Also proper break in is very important if you swap in new ring and pinion. I got a howl not breaking it in properly in the ford 9".

The easiest ones for me was a ford 9" and a dodge 10 bolt...Something like a Dana IFS front would probably be a bitch.

I forgot to put the sensor ring that slips behind the ring gear back on the dodge, so I had no speedo and an abs light lol, but did get 60k miles out of those 4.56 gears before selling the truck.
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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We're going to put a pin in this for now... Amazon Warehouse had a Powertrax 1820 on sale for $145.

Due in June 8th.

**** your Torsen.





.....I think. Is the FX4-L2 torsen a better unit?
 

snoranger

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We're going to put a pin in this for now... Amazon Warehouse had a Powertrax 1820 on sale for $145.

Due in June 8th.

**** your Torsen.





.....I think. Is the FX4-L2 torsen a better unit?
Detroit Locker
 

Eddo Rogue

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just weld the spider gears together and call it a day, instant spool!
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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just weld the spider gears together and call it a day, instant spool!
My 2011 lives its life on the highway, so just need something for snow and lease roads.
 

Eddo Rogue

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My 2011 lives its life on the highway, so just need something for snow and lease roads.
In that case maybe a detroit truetrac, or Auburn (my choice)...I had 2 Auburn L/S in a dodge and a ford, and they were good about spinning both tires, yet were open diff smooth around turns....
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Eh, hard to argue with the price of the powertrax.

Not dropping 550+ on a Detroit, dont care if it even washes my truck once a month.
 

Eddo Rogue

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Eh, hard to argue with the price of the powertrax.

Not dropping 550+ on a Detroit, dont care if it even washes my truck once a month.
I didnt look up the price but dont blame ya...and yea the powertrax looks solid and simple enough...

BTW Summit has the Auburn for $287, and the Ford traction lok for $259 for the 31 spline 8.8!
 

19Walt93

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One of my former techs had a Powertrax in his 2wd Ranger for years, it sounded like it was grinding up rocks when he turned in the parking lot. I have an Auburn pro in my Mustang, it grips like mad but since it's a metal cup and cone differential,it sheds fine metal particles in the oil. I drilled and tapped a hole in the 8 inch housing to make the frequent fluid changes easier. I think you'll be happier in the long run with a clutch type unit like a Traction Lok or a Yukon, or with a Torsen.
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Give 'yer balls a tug. Fight me.
One of my former techs had a Powertrax in his 2wd Ranger for years, it sounded like it was grinding up rocks when he turned in the parking lot. I have an Auburn pro in my Mustang, it grips like mad but since it's a metal cup and cone differential,it sheds fine metal particles in the oil. I drilled and tapped a hole in the 8 inch housing to make the frequent fluid changes easier. I think you'll be happier in the long run with a clutch type unit like a Traction Lok or a Yukon, or with a Torsen.
Torsen is what I wanted.... try getting one. Tired of them not returning calls or emails.

If thats how they treat their inquiries, I'd hate to see their customer service....

Also, 2011 truck, so AFAIK, a expo axle swap isn't possible due to wheel sensors. Sorta stuck with this lump.
 
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