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Waggy 44 or EB 44


liljoe0985

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just was gonna give it another day to get more info
 


86ford

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yea ...the most ill be doing it in is the occassional mud hole and itll get wheeled a lil during huntin season but right now its just gettin me back and to to class...i just wanna be like you guys :( lol...no offense to anyone but the hell with damn spending an ass of money on slight inches out of a suspension when i can build the shit! and i wanna say "look at that...yea that...that big blue bitch...i built that shiiiiiiiiiiiiiiit"
That is just gay, you are the guy I laugh at every time I go wheeling and your crying over a scratch. while I drive home in the snow with a crushed body panel and a broken window without a care.

Leave the IFS junk if you are not wheeling. when you do a SAS you are sacrificing ride quality, ease of repair, reliability, money, time, etc. Really do you want to be "that guy" who everyone points at and says "look" "big blue truck small pecker!".

If the "cool" factor is that important go get a d30 (HP 760x joints), run open diffs and 35s, maybe 37s will be possible.

Get your hardcore mall crawl on.

86
 

wahlstrom1

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when you do a SAS you are sacrificing ride quality, ease of repair, reliability, money, time, etc.

86
While I previously may have agreed with that statement I beg to differ now that I have mine done.....lol. Everything else though, I agree with. If the truck is to never actually be wheeled, and I mean where 4low is a necessity not just a thought then I'd stick with an IFS lift-B/L and 35's. It'll still be the truck you 'built' and it'll cost you less to do. Not to mention, it'll have higher resale value then a custom hacked-up truck, no matter how good of job you do.

-andrew
 

86ford

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While I previously may have agreed with that statement I beg to differ now that I have mine done.....lol. Everything else though, I agree with. If the truck is to never actually be wheeled, and I mean where 4low is a necessity not just a thought then I'd stick with an IFS lift-B/L and 35's. It'll still be the truck you 'built' and it'll cost you less to do. Not to mention, it'll have higher resale value then a custom hacked-up truck, no matter how good of job you do.

-andrew

Fair enough. Keep in mind YOU can fix what YOU built just like I can. BUT if someone pays to have there SAS done they better zip tie there wrists to there ankles rather than wasting the time to bend over every time there rig needs work done.

keep in mind you are use to TTB in your 97 so a solid axle is not a huge change, torsion bar IFS to a solid axle is.

OP
A "built" truck is whatever you want to make it, if "built" means chrome and stacks on a gasoline powered vehicle than so be it. Who am I to judge, but a SAS is MAJOR over kill for a mall crawler and IMO a DD.

86
 

Toreadorranger

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A superlift/Bodylift combo will allow you to run 37's.
 

wahlstrom1

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Both right on track there^^^, I've tried to repair 'built' rigs before and have spent days trying to track down the proper parts: waiting on bearings, searching through shelve's of brake parts looking for the proper pads etc.

Using off the shelf purpose built parts will allow him to get what he wants, and allow him or the next owner to fix it relatively easily.


Superlift-3" B/L-Glass- 37's on 18's


Superlift-3"B/L- 35's on 15's
 
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86ford

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Both right on track there^^^, I've tried to repair mechanical abortions before and have spent days trying to track down the proper parts: waiting on bearings, searching through shelve's of brake parts looking for the proper pads etc.
fixed it.

86
 

AKBroncoII

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Same here. I refuse to buy someone elses project ever again. I've had one of those. Luckily it wasn't as bad, but still some hacked together items. Even used vehicles that are stock can be this way. Whether it's wire nuts on the stereo or speaker wires just slammed in the door. Still tracking down stuff on my 91 sport.

IMO, put the body lift on, keep the torsion bars cranked, get some fender flares. I like the picture of the silver one minus the grill/brush guard.
 

liljoe0985

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wow didnt know id get flamed here for wanting to do something I wanna do to MY TRUCK...thanks for those who helped but if you wanna just be a damn dick just dont say nothin...im lookin for info on SAS projects, not the superlift...sorry i didnt explain enough but my truck does get wheeled pretty damn hard from when we start gettin ready for hunting season in may to about january and sees 4lo a good bit so, not just a mallcrawler believe me.My truck is scratched to hell and back, clear coat missing, bent ass bumper, broke winshield, etc. My truck is a TRUCK and will always be MY TRUCK, wont ever get sold and one will be my wheelin toy hunting rig but untile then it has to be a daily driver also. I have family with experience in this project i just wanted to ask you guys first bc i respect what most of you have to say and your work. Anyways thanks, anybody else wanna leave more info then fine but please no negative shit....
 

liljoe0985

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well whats an alternative thats strong enough to run 37s and achieve lift i want?...bc i know my stock d35 wont run em long...
 

liljoe0985

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Ps...i Love You Guys...
 

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Uhm...SAS, lol. When ya find a diff, let us know and we can guide ya from there.

-andrew
 

liljoe0985

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lol appreciate it and i will keep yall up to date
 

liljoe0985

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Ok a lil has changed and im deciding on goin fullwidth d44 and gonna go ahead and run coils more than likely. With that being said, ive found a full truck for sale for 600. Its a 1978 FORD F-150 long bed 4x4,351m, 4sp granny low, 37"swapers, new light bar, needs flywheel, cant get ahold of the guy to ask what diff he has in the truck so this all depends on it being a d44. Anyways I could use both axels from it and tires and wheels (if in decent condition till i can afford a new set). This would save me some money as far as having to buy a new set right away and with this year axel it has the cast on wedgies and if im wantin to run coils its allready set up so. Do you need to relocate the coil mounts on the axle to transfer to my 2000 ranger? I could also just extend the factory radius arms from the f-150 to work right? Or should i just keep lookin for a 77 so i can cut off the wedgies and fab/buy the mounts and install myself?
 

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