Volvo EPAS Conversion

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Yes, this is a problem. If PJ wants me to, I will, or another mod can clean up this thread.

You know what you must do.

Justice. Canada style.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Thread cleaned. Extraneous posts will be deleted permanently next time I see this thread, unless there is a good reason to bring them back.

 

[jpark6491]

This is brilliant! You have inspired me to do this as well, thanks for sharing!

 

[jpark6491]

I just watched this video last night. This guy installed the Volvo EPAS on his Mustang. Look away at the engine, it is LS swapped lol

 

[BrownRangers]

Would an alternator upgrade be required or suggested on a 60amp setup? Yup, added to the list.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Would an alternator upgrade be required or suggested on a 60amp setup? Yup, added to the list.

I would recommend it for the sake of engine loading if nothing else.

3.8 3g alternator with 12-6 bolt pattern fits cologne V belt engines. Will give you 130-140 amps.

Just change the pulley to v belt, replace upper bracket with one for a 350 Chevy, and grab the 3g harness out of the donor.

 

[BrownRangers]

Is there a link to the Alternator upgrade PT# and wiring required? I think I could splurge for a new alternator. Maybe summit has a cheap on that would look better. Prepping for the engine swap so wouldn't mind buying some nice pieces here and there. That being said, if there is a Rockauto taurus alt for $50 for 140amps and plugs right in, i'm down.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Swap is super easy, and required for epas

3g with 12 and 6 oclock mounting tabs

Chevy 350 alternator bracket

Alternator wiring harness from donor vehicle

Big assed fuse (Amazon for a mega fuse holder and 175 amp fuse)

Will bolt into your bottom bracket. Replace rbv top bracket with Chevy. Swap pulleys if yours is.v belt. Run wiring. Make.sure to isolate 3g alternator on one side of fuse by itself.

 

[twoll86]

Any updates on this?

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Big wires to battery, grey wire to ignition run.

Cap and stash the others, can code will eventually be available.

harvest as much of the witing and especially the pigtails and metal parts of hydraulic lines when you harvest the pump. Have any hydraulic shop make you a new hose with the Volvo ends or use adapters and tractor supply hydraulic hose. Pump can be mounted anywhere on the vehicle.

Then do this. And party.

I recorded the delay between the key on and pump activation for a reason. They need to boot up, as they are microprocessor controlled and the delay is going into limp mode when no can commands are received

 

[DPDISXR4Ti]

In some of the models that the pump is installed in, the driver has the ability to manually set the pump rates based on preference, and in others the ECM sends CANBUS commands to adjust the pump pressure based on road speed. This adjustment gives the driver more or less resistance to their steering and thereby increases or decreases ‘road feel.’

Do you have any further info about the manual setting of the pump rates that you mention above? Everyone who does this swap just seems to take the easy way and run it in "70% limp mode". You're the first one I've seen even mention that there might be a way to manually set the rate without some sort of software control via CAN bus.

 

[Gulliver22]

After the Trail Ride, I realized with the encouragement of @AgPete139 , @Jim Oaks and @bobbywalter that I really need to get this article finished. Posting the incomplete version for review. Want to get it finished up over the next few days. AgPete and @lil_Blue_Ford drove it. They can report the difference in road feel for those that are curious.


Volvo EPAS Power Steering Conversion
Original Poster: PetroleumJunkie412

Thanks so much for the write up! Here's some additional info that may help anyone doing such a swap:

On the Volvo units, there are at least two different styles, and integral reservoir one, and a remote reservoir one. Find the one that suits your project best.

Attached is detailed information on the EPAS from volvo, including wiring schematics. The heavy gauge red wire goes to battery (put a heavy duty fuse or circuit breaker in line). Heavy black to ground. And grey/blue wire to key on. If you want to bench test one, make sure the red/black wires are connected to voltage before the grey/blue wire is connected (not the other way around). I've read doing it wrong can arc the internal capacitors.

I believe the high pressure side fitting is a 16mm x 1.5 O-ring fitting, and you can get a conversion fitting from that thread to -6 AN here:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pfn-sf02

Cheers!