Verifying if timing chain broke or not on 1996 Ford Ranger XLT 3.0 L

[vanangle]

I have a 1996 Ranger XLT 3.0L V6 (220K miles) that died while driving 65 mph on Memorial Day weekend. I noticed my oil guage had gone completely down and I was able to get over. I stopped the car and expected smoke, foul smell, or fluids leaking but nothing. Oil was full. There had been no symptoms like when your alternator dies and you start losing your radio and the ABS light comes on. The car wouldn't crank back up at all. I had it towed back to my house and started checking all the fuses and even diodes. Battery was good, just no crank. Put a scanner on it to pull some codes, and no codes were registered and no vehicle information. At this time I ordered a PCM and with VIN programmed. It arrived, and the only major change was the solenoid engages, but no turn over, no codes (on 2 different scanners) and check engine light. Battery was checked and is okay. I thought back and the oil pressure gauge seems to point to the timing chain going out. What I've researched is that it is a non-interference engine with a timing chain. Is there a simple way to confirm, or is it a 1-2 hour job to verify?

 

[ericbphoto]

I can't imagine the timing chain breaking on a 3.0l. You could take a valve cover off and turn the engine over and see if the valve train is moving.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Check the Cam Synchronizer... I mean it does drive the oil pump.

 

[RonD]

Yes +1 ^^^^

Welcome to TRS

Pull off the cam sensor and have someone watch the tab under the sensor to see if it is turning when cranking the engine over


Just to be clear, "cranking" means starter motor is turning the engine, no "cranking" means starter motor is NOT working

People sometimes use "engine doesn't crank" for engine doesn't start, but starter motor works


Reads like your fuel pump died
Spray fuel into the engine and crank it, 50/50 test
If it starts and dies fuel delivery is the problem
If it doesn't start then yes spark or no compression is the problem

 

[vanangle]

The Cam synchronizer was replaced 2 years ago and when it was going bad, makes a high pitch whine. The truck won't turn over presently using the starter, but I'm going to clean the ground wires to the battery and put a new terminal on it. Battery didn't have any corrosion, but it did have some issues with a strong ground.

 

[vanangle]

Before I replaced the PCM, the starter solenoid wasn't making any noise, but now the solenoid is engaging since the PCM was replaced. It is a manual transmission. I've replaced starters in other cars before and understand the mechanics. I do appreciate the feedback,

 

[RonD]

1996 Ranger

PCM has no connection to the starter solenoid or starting system in general

Check fuse 24 in cab fuse box

Do you have Keyless entry?
If not then you won't have starter interrupt relay in most cases

 

[Uncle Gump]

Try turning the engine over by hand... you said it dropped oil pressure then quit. It's absolutely where I would start.

 

[gw33gp]

Is your oil gauge the factory gauge or an after market mechanical gauge? If it is the factory gauge it would go down with the loss of electrical power and it could still have oil pressure. If the starter is not turning the engine over, you most likely have an electrical issue.

 

[adsm08]

I'm with Gump. You gotta make sure that engine can spin at all before going nuts on other things.

 

[vanangle]

Hi, I'm sorry for the delay but I had work and other items. So I did 3 things, 1. Had the battery checked (it was good) and charged). 2. Put new negative ground terminal and cleaned/tightened all cables and terminals. 3. Tried turning the engine by hand. Well it wouldn't budge moving by hand. So I went ahead and tried to start it again. I heard a quick movement, but nothing else. Something slightly smoked in the engine near the fuse box. I decided to go get a Sharpie and just mark the belt near the battery to see if it moves. I tried starting, could hear the starter actually engage a little, but no full turn. Got out, and noticed the mark on the belt had moved 2 inches. I'm guessing a catastrophic failure as that oil pressure gauge was the only thing that went down, while the other gauges were still fine (when this all went south at 65 mph). I've had 2 alternators replaced and none of those signals occurred (radio dying, ABS light, and slowly nothing over 2-5 minutes). I appreciate everyone's input as they were all sincere. I'm think 1-800-Kars4Kids will be getting a call after Father's Day. Y'all rocked!

 

[Uncle Gump]

Bummer...

Put a used engine in it if it is worth fixing...

 

[Uncle Gump]

You could take the accessory drive belt and try it again... that would eliminate the slim chance it was maybe the power steering pump or A/C compressor.