Valve Cover gaskets on 4.0 OHV

[e21pilot]

Back in the day when I drove a 2.8L V6 Ford Capri, it was easy to pull the valve covers to adjust the valve clearances and replace the gaskets.

On my 1992 4.0 OHV Ranger however, things don't seem so easy. The A/C plumbing looks like a problem for the left side cover and the right side cover is hard to see let alone remove.

With over 250K miles on the clock, the valve cover gaskets are leaking badly and need replacing. Wondering if there are any recommended steps on the minimum amount of stuff I need to remove in order to get the covers off and replace the gaskets?

The motor doesn't burn any oil so I'm assuming the valve guides are still OK.

Thanks

 

[JoshT]

I'm not sure about the 92 models, but on my 99 I can pull valve covers without disconnecting the hoses. Heck we pulled the engine without disconnecting any of the AC components, but did remove the heads while still in the truck so it was just pulling the block.

When working on pretty much anything below the intake/valve covers I'll pull the mounting bolts for the AC compressor, and just shift it and the hoses around in the engine bay to get to everything.

IIRC on the right side I pull the upper intake and coil pack (you've got a distributor instead), but I'm usually also pulling the head so it might just be that I'm pulling them anyway. For head removal I also remove the alternator.

If you were going to be removing valve springs, absolutely replace seals. If not burning oil and nothing else wrong, I doubt that I would go through the trouble of replacing valve stem seals.

On other note, I wish I had one of those Capris. Got a perfectly good, low miles 2.8 Liter sitting in the back yard looking for a home. I really want something smaller and lighter than a Ranger to put it in, but a Capri would also fit the bill.

 

[RonD]

It looks worse than it is but yes you do need to disconnect a few things to remove them.

They are stamp steal so you have to straighten them after you remove them.
They will be deformed at the bolt holes, usually from being over tightened.

Just put on flat piece of steel, vice?, and tap around the hole to flatten it out again.

Use Cork valve cover gaskets, these seal better than rubber long term because they swell as oil penetrates the inside part of gasket.
Cork gaskets can't be reused after a year or so.
Rubber gaskets are used when you know you will be pulling off the valve covers more often, they can be reused but do not seal as well over time with stamped steal valve covers

 

[97RangerXLT]

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94437

this is for a 97, but for the most part it will be the same. your upper intake will be different but the lower and everything else will be the same as your 92. you can as Josh mentioned unbolt the a/c compressor and lay it on its side out of the way. Alternator must come out too.

AJ

 

[adsm08]

IIRC on the right side I pull the upper intake and coil pack (you've got a distributor instead),

4.0 never had a distributor. It used the same coil pack ignition system from 1990 to 2011, the entire production run of both versions. Even the coil pack itself never changed.

 

[e21pilot]

Thanks for the posts and the link.

On the subject of the old Ford Capri, I really miss the old tossable ‘76 Capri II that I had. I often wonder if a 4.0 OHV would have fit under the hood and how the extra torque would have made it really fun to drive. Even with the 2.8 V6 it was a lot of fun.