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2.3L ('02-'11) Vaccum schematic


w2vy

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I have a 2002 Ranger with the 2.3L

The rubber hoses needs replacing, I have had to cut the tips of the washer fluid lines to get them to work properly, etc.

A while ago I noticed the Defroster air deflector to move to defrost (which I have been told is the default position, indicating low vaccum)
Very recently the Transmission has started to have issues shifting when OD is on, which seems to also use Vacuum to detect engine speed
And last week I got a P0171 which some searching can also be caused from vacuum problems.

So... I would like to see how all these vacuum lines are connected, so are there any online reference that have the connection diagrams?

I have a 69 Bug and in about 10 years my Ranger will be a classic too :)
I even have the original am/fm/cassette radio!

Thanks,
Tom
 


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Vents sticking on defrost does indeed mean the system is losing vacuum. Could be a crack in the reservoir (big plastic ball on the passengers side below the air box) or a crack in one of the hard plastic lines. There are no vacuum lines to the transmission however. Common spot for a vacuum leak on those engines of that year is from the IMRC system attached to the lower intake manifold.
 

w2vy

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Vents sticking on defrost does indeed mean the system is losing vacuum. Could be a crack in the reservoir (big plastic ball on the passengers side below the air box) or a crack in one of the hard plastic lines. There are no vacuum lines to the transmission however. Common spot for a vacuum leak on those engines of that year is from the IMRC system attached to the lower intake manifold.
Thanks!

Maybe the reference I found was for another year... there are enough of them...

also... the engine runs fine...
 

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The diagrams in the tech section are for the 2.3/2.5 lima engine used until 2001. You have a 2.3 duratec engine used from 2002+. They are vastly different engines.
 

w2vy

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The diagrams in the tech section are for the 2.3/2.5 lima engine used until 2001. You have a 2.3 duratec engine used from 2002+. They are vastly different engines.
Thanks that would have been Very confusing!

So my question remains 🤔
 

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I have a vacuum diagram in my factory shop manual, ill scan a copy for you when I get home.

In the mean time, never hurts to do a fuel pressure test. Low fuel pressure can cause a p0171 code. P0717 means you have too little fuel, or too much air. So either fuel restriction or vacuum leak. To do a test for vacuum leaks you can spray brake clean or starting fluid around the vacuum lines and intake with the engine running. If you hear the engine surge while spraying in a particular spot, there is a vacuum leak there. I prefer to use smoke however. Block the throttle body off with something (a latex glove and some duck tape). Then remove the vacuum line from the brake booster, light up a cigar and puff the smoke into the booster line. Eventually the intake will fill with smoke and will start to pour out of any leaks. They make machines to do this if you don't want to smoke a cigar, or you can build one yourself. Google DIY automotive smoke machine.
 

w2vy

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Well I finally got my mechanic (son) to help take a look...
After about 15 mins of him telling me all the things we need to fix, we looked at the reservoir and associated hard lines, along with rubber hoses to/from the IMRC so obvious cracks.

Next we'll do a vacuum leak test... I have a can of starting fluid, so that makes it easy...

His short list is: leaky power steering pump, leaky water pump, timing chain, drive belt

Personally, I wonder if the timing chain is a job not done at home...
No way at all!

The other can be done all at once... but first I want to find the vacuum leak!
 
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pjtoledo

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how many miles?
my 2005 2.3 has over 367,000 miles on it's original timing chain.
the oil pump is also driven by a chain off the crank.
have you put a vacuum gauge to the intake?
 

w2vy

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Yesterday when driving to work (about 3 miles) the engine was running much smoother.
It was also much cooler than normal, like today it's down to 73 and not humid.

At lunch time I drove to get lunch and it was also nice.
But then the drive home to eat it was back to running rough

I wonder if when I checked the lines Tuesday when I reinstalled them they could have been tight enough to have less of a leak.
So today I will trim the slightly flared tips to get to better rubber and that may be the end of it.

367k miles on one timing chain? nice - so I guess I just be aware of the chain starting to rattle before needing to change it?

My truck has about 132k miles, it had 70k when I got it about 10 years ago

Why do you mention the oil pump? I am not aware of any leaks back there, maybe I should look.
Oil level seems stable.

Would I measure that on the Intake Manifold where the vacuum line goes to the IMRC?

I guess if after trimming the hoses the engine run smoothly I can see if the P0171 code goes away, or maybe I need to clear it?

The engine runs roughest stopped at a light, if I take it out of gear (to N or P) is gets smoother.
I assumed it was just the load of the transmission/clutch, maybe worth mentioning

I really want to thank you guys for your help!
I now have a 56 and a 67 VW Bug and I can see keeping my ranger until it can get antique plates as well, a little over 10 yrs left.

Tom
 

w2vy

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Well trimming the ends of the line between the intake and IMRC seems to have helped some.

So the P0171 needs to be next, Does Advanced Auto/etc offer loaner/rental of Vacuum and/or fuel pressure testers?
 

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I'm sure they do...

But if you shop around a bit... those two tools are cheap enough to own.
 

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........
Why do you mention the oil pump? I am not aware of any leaks back there, maybe I should look.
Oil level seems stable.



I really want to thank you guys for your help!
I now have a 56 and a 67 VW Bug and I can see keeping my ranger until it can get antique plates as well, a little over 10 yrs left.

Tom
initially you were concerned about the timing chain/belt. I noted that the oil pump also runs off a chain.
it's in the front of the engine.

67644


67645



that is the oil pump. thru the opening you can see the 2 bolts that hold the pickup tube.
this is a 2010 Fusion 2.5 Duratec, very similar to a Ranger 2.3
 

w2vy

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Big progress! Replaced water and power steering pumps along with the serpentine belt. Not 100% sure all leaks fixed but watching it

The fluid from the power steering has destroyed the steering boot... added to the TODO list...

The rough idle may be caused by the hole in the hose pictured below.

The closeup is taken looking down between the rear of the engine and firewall

20211212_191533.jpg


Closeup rear is toward the right
20211212_192429.jpg



So what is that hose called and where does the other end go?
It is my daily driver, so I am cautious what I do the day before work lol

Thanks,
Tom
 

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