V8 Swap Thread - 1994 B3000 "Victoria"

[Ranger850]

Another small update. I was checking out transmission prices from private junkyards and I found that the junkyard around the corner has a 1998 M5R2 from a 4.2L F150 for $400. It's a little more than I want to pay, but I think I'm going to jump on this today before it disappears. I'll get some pics after I acquire it.

Is there a JY in Crawfordville? Do they pull the parts?

 

[Guanfy]

Is there a JY in Crawfordville? Do they pull the parts?

Sort of. Economy Auto Salvage is located on Woodville Highway, about 4 miles from me. They aren't in Crawfordville nor are they in Woodville. They specialize in salvage truck parts. The yard is private so you can't pull but they will pull the part for you. They have a search function on their website and participate in some of the salvage networks so you can see results for them when using websites that search salvage yards across the US.

 

[Guanfy]

Got the M5R2 from the local junkyard this afternoon. I'm happy to report that for the 1998 model year the F50 still uses a cable driven speedometer and a VSS just like my '94 B3000, so it looks like I won't have to buy a tailshaft and swap. Yay!

 

[Guanfy]

Another small update. While I got the transmission, the shifter I did not have. The stub that came with the transmission has the retaining flat on the driver's side and the guide pin slot the front when looking from the behind the bellhousing. In my B3000 the flat is on the passenger side. This means I can't easily swap my M5R1 shifter to the new M5R2 transmission. It also turns out that gear shifter levers for F150s are unobtainium. The salvage guys don't keep them, junkyards don't hold onto them and no one appears to sell them on eBay. However, I found a local company called ManTrans that happened to have a correct fitting shifter lever in their junkpile. $50 dollars later I have the shifter lever, the boot and the retaining bolt. It does fit correctly and I can now move the M5R2 through all the gears. Daryl, the owner of ManTrans was kind enough to say that if I pulled the shifter plate and sent him a video of the gears moving he would let me know if I needed to do any servicing before installing the transmission.

For those who don't know, the M5R2 does have some of the same quirks as it's smaller sibling the M5R1. Both use Dex/Merc ATF for fluid. Both have an issue of the shift rail plugs leaking and causing premature failure(These plugs are located on the shifter plate, behind where the shifter lever is located.) The default plugs are rubber but Dorman makes a small metal freeze plug that fits perfectly resolves that particular issue. Both can wind up with very sloppy shifting due to the shifter bushing and pins wearing out. That can be fixed with a repair kit from Dorman.

The last thing I need to complete the transmission stack as it were is a knob for the shifter. The shifter knobs for these trans is a splined fit versus screw on so it limits what shifter knobs you can use. It turns out the stock shifter knob used in the B Series is again unobtainium. I can find the shifter knob for the later model Rangers without issue but I don't like the look. Either I'll have to settle for that or wait until the actual swap then transfer over the shift knob being used for my M5R1 presently in service.

 

[Ranger850]

ManTrans is a very reputable shop. I have only heard good things about them. Never used them but there's always tomorrow. I have a red billiard ball (#3 iirc) the would make a great shift knob. Let me know if you're interested. I'll have to dig it out of my dad's truck.

 

[Guanfy]

ManTrans is a very reputable shop. I have only heard good things about them. Never used them but there's always tomorrow. I have a red billiard ball (#3 iirc) the would make a great shift knob. Let me know if you're interested. I'll have to dig it out of my dad's truck.

I went ahead and purchased the late model shifter knob from Ford. My plan is to take a fine tipped paint brush or a paint pen and fill in the numbers and lines of the shift pattern so there's some color on the shifter inlay.

 

[Guanfy]

I received the new shifter knob. One thing I find a bit cheesy is that it has a smooth plastic insert on the inside. This means that it gets its grip by the splines of the gear shifter shaft cutting grooves in the plastic insert. In the grand scheme of things this means you get one shot to place the knob how you want and if you want to pull and reuse somewhere else, you are out of luck. I know that I could use glue but then you run into the removal of glue issues... annoying.

 

[Guanfy]

It's been awhile guys, but I do have news. I finally have a concrete slab under my pole barn! This was one of the last major things I was working towards before getting serious about doing the swap. As far as getting anymore bits and bobs that I have not. I did raid a 2001 5.0 Explorer at the junkyard for all manner of vaccum lines, bolts, bracketry etc, etc so I have most of what I need.

 

[bobbywalter]

I would try to go at least 30 days without touching the slab ... Then putting a good epoxy on it.

 

[Guanfy]

I would try to go at least 30 days without touching the slab ... Then putting a good epoxy on it.

According to the concrete company, I was good to go for operations after waiting about a week, due to the lower temperatures this time of year. I am thinking about sealing it but I think I need to enclose the barn first before putting some kind of coating down. Concrete company left a light broom finish for traction. The next real delimma for me is whether to start enclosing the barn or buy the lift....

 

[Guanfy]

More updates. The junkyard got my unicorn truck in. A 1995 F-150 with a 300 paired to a M5R2. The 300 has the same bolt pattern as the 302 so was able to harvest the starter shim plate and the starter, which I've been trying to find for months. Also picked up all the bellhousing bolts, pressure plate bolts and flywheels bolts which I also didn't have. Then the yard got in a 2000 Explorer in with a 302, so I was able to get some more odds and ends off of that, including the bolts for the lower intake, which I did not have.

Meanwhile I have started on the three inch lift for the truck. Truck is now lifted but I need to finish making the needed adjustments in the engine bay so the truck is operational again. Need to have it buttoned up by Thursday as I'm picking up a transmission for a different project.

 

[Guanfy]

Forgot to add that I am sending off my ECU to Drag Radial Performance of Ocala, Florida to do the PATS delete and the auto trans delete. I hope to get that in the mail this week.

 

[Guanfy]

More updates. My ECU was successfully programmed by Drag Radial Performance and is on the way back to me. I've purchased a radiator from Northern that is specifically for 302 swapped Rangers along with the 302 adapter engine mount plates from Summit Racing. That should be all the major pieces I need to get started. I still need to pick up a wire connector and crimping kit, along with everything for a clutch and transmission refresh but I finally have enough to really get started.

 

[Guanfy]

More updates. I have my ECU back so that's exciting. I also swung by the junkyard and picked up the transmission pigtail off a '95 F-150 that has a M5R2. It has the NSS I need and the connector for the VSS I need. The shape is different but I can depin it and pin on the connector from my existing 3.0 harness. I think I'll also be able to swap the pigtail in for the automatic trans pigtail on the 2000 Expo harness I have, to make a more elegant solution for that particular harness leg. I hope.

 

[bobbywalter]

Just identify and work one system at a time. Understand it forwards and backwards before proceeding.

Then....you will be able to maintain it instead of sending it to the junkyard ...

Steady Eddie....