V8 swap, tcases.

[Tomm1468]

Hey all,

I have a 2000 ranger 3.0 4x4 ext cab that the engine recently blew. (which I cant say I i'm too sad about). Anyway, I purchased a 5.0 from a 00 mountaineer with only 90k miles, it includes the entire engine, wiring harnesses, transmission, computer, and other small things. I spent a pretty penny to get the engine and tranny as they are in really good shape. (#grandpa car). any way. I was looking over everything to make sure it was all ready to go for when my engine finally gets here, and I noticed a small snag. AA doesn't make the 5" adapter anymore, which makes things a bit more difficult. I've read over about a million different forums for all the options. and the way I figure it i have about 4.
1. bw4406 with a motorolla pack
2. bw4406M where I have to cut a hole in my floor (not ideal)
3. bw1356 - didnt really see too much info about that option.
4. try to get the awd t case off the mountaineer.

Im leaning heavily to the bw4406 with the motorolla pack, though, I dont want to have to cut my fuel tank size. Im afraid of the driving road noise from putting the manual in there (maybe im wrong). and though I would get to keep my larger gas tank, I would need it if I decided to keep the AWD, plus the added wear and tear on my front suspension. so IDK anymore.
need some other opinions. those options I listed are in order of my preference.

 

[franklin2]

Manual transfer cases are not noisy, unless there is something wrong with them. They rarely go bad and normally you do not know they are even there. Even the shifter is short, so it doesn't get in the way much either.

 

[Craig0320]

2000 5.0 Explorer Swap Into 98 Ranger 4.0

Well I just finished swapping a 2000 ford explorer 5.0 with 54,000 original miles on it into a 98 ford ranger 4.0 automatic 4x4 extended cab. I used a BW4406 manual shift transfer case out of a 03 f150. I wanted to post this to put some more information out there in the ranger world. I am going...

www.therangerstation.com

This is the link to my build except mine was a 98 model. The article is also in the how to section on this website. Also check out fastpakr's build it is similar to mine.I used a bw4406 manual tcase and loved it. Truck was smooth and quiet. It was my daily for 5 years until I sold it.

 

[Tomm1468]

So, there doesnt seem to be any additional road noise from having a hole for the manual shifter. thats all i'm really worried about. Otherwise, the manual seems like its probably the easiest, and from what I've heard, the most reliable.

 

[Craig0320]

So, there doesnt seem to be any additional road noise from having a hole for the manual shifter. thats all i'm really worried about. Otherwise, the manual seems like its probably the easiest, and from what I've heard, the most reliable.

None that i ever notice but i had fllowmaster duals.I cut the hole just big enough for the shifter to function properly. I also went to the junkyard and found a f150 with the shifter and factory boot with hardware. Mine looked factory afterwards.

 

[Tomm1468]

Craig, thanks for the link and the insights. I love the way you got that shifter and boot to look afterward. It's probably what I'll end up doing with in my ranger, I actually have a pick n pull 2 minutes down the stree from my place, so I'll just pick one up there. I'm hoping that the transition goes smoothly.

 

[00t444e]

I would go with the 4406 manual shift or 1356, no way I would put a junk electric shift in.

 

[Craig0320]

Craig, thanks for the link and the insights. I love the way you got that shifter and boot to look afterward. It's probably what I'll end up doing with in my ranger, I actually have a pick n pull 2 minutes down the stree from my place, so I'll just pick one up there. I'm hoping that the transition goes smoothly.

Thank you. I wanted a factory look for everything .i did all the research and hand mine swapped and on the road in a weekend.

 

[franklin2]

So, there doesnt seem to be any additional road noise from having a hole for the manual shifter. thats all i'm really worried about. Otherwise, the manual seems like its probably the easiest, and from what I've heard, the most reliable.

That aggravating pad that gets in the way under the boot does make some difference in drivetrain noise. As long as you keep it or substitute something for it, it should be quiet.

 

[Elutheros]

I was fortunate to find a NP205 in the JY for $60 and I'm quite happy with it except that it weighs 130 pounds and is a beast to get up and down. The manual shifter is from the 1978 Ford where I got the TC. Yes getting the shifter situated and keeping the road noise down is an issue. I actually found that replacing all the door and window seals did a lot more for limiting noise in the cab.

 

[rubydist]

Where did you buy door and window seals, @Elutheros ? I am thinking of the same thing.

 

[Tomm1468]

i actually just had to replace the rear seal on my rear window, and I've actually wen't through already and place soundproof soundmats through the entire cab of the truck. so its probably already quieter than it was stock. hahaha, my ranger has been sitting in my driveway for a few months now waiting for the engine swap, and here in WA it rains everyday during the winter... well, I went out a few weeks ago and found my entire interior mildewed and molded to crap, the rear seal was leaking, but this is the seal I used for the window, it worked great to stop the leak! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071H3NWDW?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_67MY7CF125DH73Y0H6RZ

 

[Tomm1468]

Thank you. I wanted a factory look for everything .i did all the research and hand mine swapped and on the road in a weekend.

I noticed that you mentioned in your conversion article, that an F150 front driveshaft should be drop in with a conversion ujoin. what was the ujoint that you are referring to?

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I was fortunate to find a NP205 in the JY for $60 and I'm quite happy with it except that it weighs 130 pounds and is a beast to get up and down. The manual shifter is from the 1978 Ford where I got the TC. Yes getting the shifter situated and keeping the road noise down is an issue. I actually found that replacing all the door and window seals did a lot more for limiting noise in the cab.

I noticed a lot more vibration, basically with the t-case mount the powertrain can't move much... so the whole truck moves.

I love my 205 and the twin stick is seriously addictive, I know a lot of later model guys run the 4406 though. I had one of those in my last F-150 and had 0 issues with it.

 

[4x4prepper]

> 4. try to get the awd t case off the mountaineer.

Not even an option for you. They go defective and can cause with the dragging, for the front axle to engage, and it blows out the hubs and diff. Symptom is when you turn the wheel on the Mountaineer at low speed for a corner and it feels like you are locked in 4HI with a locker in the front. Many Mountaineers have swapped in manual transfer cases for this reason.