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V8 conversion for 1988 2.0 carbed ranger


Otto57

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I have a 1988 2.0 carburetor ranger so I am looking for a donor explorer that I can convert to carb, that does not have a chip in the key and has a real distributor. What are my options? Do I have to find an early explorer and rebuild the engine or can later years be modified to work? What about the trans? I would love to use a manual trans. What would fit? I am new to this forum and would appreciate any help
 


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If you want an Explorer engine, no chip key, and a real distributor all in one package, your options are none. The Explorer 5.0s were always EDIS.

Now, that being said, you can take an Explorer long-block, slap a carb intake on it, spike a distributor where the cam synchronizer was, and have exactly what you are looking for.

The chipped key should be a non issue for you, seeing as how that is a computer thing, and you shouldn't be worried about a computer with a carb. Just throw it in, hook the starter up to your existing stuff, and roll with your existing key.
 

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Id just find a 94-96 F150 block, slap a big ol edelbrock intake on it, a decent sized 4bbl, and haul ass.

As far as manual trannys, a BW T18 is a good choice if you dont need OD and want a real truck trans (as in, its got a granny low), if you are want O/D youll need an M5OD, and if you want a granny low AND OD a ZF 5 speed from an F250/350 will fit the bill.

But remember, whatever trans you choose will need to come from a 289, 300 Straight 6, 302, or 351W. Unless it has a removable bellhousing.
 

Bird76Mojo

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If you ever plan to add boost in the future, and for general longevity, I'd look for a low mile engine that was pre-1992. You'll get forged pistons in "most" pre-92 302's from Mustangs, Thunderbirds, etc.. 1987-1992 anyway. I'd also look for an engine that had (at the very least) E7 heads. Explorer, GT40 heads would flow even better. Avoid 1970's stuff if you can. It will flow like shit and be down on power. E7 heads are a pretty nice cylinder head for a factory casting, but as I said, the GT40 stuff will flow a bit better and make more power.

I went with a T5Z transmission from Modern Driveline. A perfect match to the truck. Fit's well and hooks up the the factory Ranger clutch master cylinder with an adapter and a -4AN hose. I did use an aftermarket Tilton slave cylinder in the bellhousing though. There are lots of cheaper options for clutch slave cylinders, but most take more fabrication work and troubleshooting. In my opinion the T5 shifts are far superior to all other manual transmissions that can be used in this application. Mine shifts like butter. Very quickly. The M5OD won't do that. Neither will the ZF.

You can find used T5 transmissions at salvage yards in Mustangs. But for the cost of one, I'd just search out a local T5 rebuilder and buy one from them. There are lots of guys all across the country rebuilding T5's and most of their prices are pretty decent considering you're getting a tranny that "should" give you less problems than a used, unknown condition junkyard transmission. You can also rebuild one yourself as they're dead simple transmissions. Avoid the 4 cylinder Mustang T5 transmissions at all costs, as well as the S-10 model of T5. I hear 94-95 Mustang T5's are nice and strong units, but if you grab one from a 94-95 Mustang, be sure to grab the bell housing from it as well, because the input shaft on those transmissions are a little longer and require the 94-95 SN95 Mustang bellhousing.

If you're worried about the shifter coming through the original hole in the floor, then that's another issue altogether. Modern Driveline makes a front shift/rear socket tail housing for the T5 transmission that puts the shifter in the stock location, but most people won't buy them because of the (sticker shock) price. I used one and couldn't be happier with it. A Chevrolet S-10 T5 tail housing can be adapted, but it will likely give you long-term oiling issues internally on the transmission, and it can't really be modified to completely correct the oiling issue. I talked to several professional T5 builders about this issue and they advised against using the S-10 tail housing. You also have to have one from a specific year of S-10 to get the right speedometer drive location, and by the time you find one of those, they're priced pretty high normally, so the Modern Driveline tail housing starts to make much more sense as far as cost is concerned. It'a bolt-on affair with the correct speedometer drive. The MDL front shift tail housing also accepts performance shifters (depending on if it's a front or rear socket version - call MDL and ask them about that - front shift, rear socket takes a Mustang II aftermarket shifter, while the front shift, front socket uses any aftermarket T5 performance shifter), unlike the S-10 tail housing which really limits you to only one aftermarket shifter or the crappy S-10 factory shifter.
 

Otto57

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If you ever plan to add boost in the future, and for general longevity, I'd look for a low mile engine that was pre-1992. You'll get forged pistons in "most" pre-92 302's from Mustangs, Thunderbirds, etc.. 1987-1992 anyway. I'd also look for an engine that had (at the very least) E7 heads. Explorer, GT40 heads would flow even better. Avoid 1970's stuff if you can. It will flow like shit and be down on power. E7 heads are a pretty nice cylinder head for a factory casting, but as I said, the GT40 stuff will flow a bit better and make more power.

I went with a T5Z transmission from Modern Driveline. A perfect match to the truck. Fit's well and hooks up the the factory Ranger clutch master cylinder with an adapter and a -4AN hose. I did use an aftermarket Tilton slave cylinder in the bellhousing though. There are lots of cheaper options for clutch slave cylinders, but most take more fabrication work and troubleshooting. In my opinion the T5 shifts are far superior to all other manual transmissions that can be used in this application. Mine shifts like butter. Very quickly. The M5OD won't do that. Neither will the ZF.

You can find used T5 transmissions at salvage yards in Mustangs. But for the cost of one, I'd just search out a local T5 rebuilder and buy one from them. There are lots of guys all across the country rebuilding T5's and most of their prices are pretty decent considering you're getting a tranny that "should" give you less problems than a used, unknown condition junkyard transmission. You can also rebuild one yourself as they're dead simple transmissions. Avoid the 4 cylinder Mustang T5 transmissions at all costs, as well as the S-10 model of T5. I hear 94-95 Mustang T5's are nice and strong units, but if you grab one from a 94-95 Mustang, be sure to grab the bell housing from it as well, because the input shaft on those transmissions are a little longer and require the 94-95 SN95 Mustang bellhousing.

If you're worried about the shifter coming through the original hole in the floor, then that's another issue altogether. Modern Driveline makes a front shift/rear socket tail housing for the T5 transmission that puts the shifter in the stock location, but most people won't buy them because of the (sticker shock) price. I used one and couldn't be happier with it. A Chevrolet S-10 T5 tail housing can be adapted, but it will likely give you long-term oiling issues internally on the transmission, and it can't really be modified to completely correct the oiling issue. I talked to several professional T5 builders about this issue and they advised against using the S-10 tail housing. You also have to have one from a specific year of S-10 to get the right speedometer drive location, and by the time you find one of those, they're priced pretty high normally, so the Modern Driveline tail housing starts to make much more sense as far as cost is concerned. It'a bolt-on affair with the correct speedometer drive. The MDL front shift tail housing also accepts performance shifters (depending on if it's a front or rear socket version - call MDL and ask them about that - front shift, rear socket takes a Mustang II aftermarket shifter, while the front shift, front socket uses any aftermarket T5 performance shifter), unlike the S-10 tail housing which really limits you to only one aftermarket shifter or the crappy S-10 factory shifter.
If you want an Explorer engine, no chip key, and a real distributor all in one package, your options are none. The Explorer 5.0s were always EDIS.

Now, that being said, you can take an Explorer long-block, slap a carb intake on it, spike a distributor where the cam synchronizer was, and have exactly what you are looking for.

The chipped key should be a non issue for you, seeing as how that is a computer thing, and you shouldn't be worried about a computer with a carb. Just throw it in, hook the starter up to your existing stuff, and roll with your existing key.
Ok thank you for you help. So I assume I can use basically any year explorer for my swap. That will make finding one easier
 

adsm08

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Ok thank you for you help. So I assume I can use basically any year explorer for my swap. That will make finding one easier
Mostly. You need to stick to looking at second gen (95-01 body) 4 door Explorers. 91-94 only had the 4.0, no V8 option, and 02+ had the 4.6, not the 5.0. 2-door units were also not available with a V8 option.
 

Otto57

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Ok, I think I got it. 95-01 4 Door explorer and now I have to decide what trans to use. My 1988 original was manual trans. And if I understand right the automatic from the explorer will not work without computer. Sorry if I am redundant but this is a lot of new info to me. Thanks again
 

adsm08

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Right, the 4R70 is completely computer controlled. The AOD or C4 transmissions would be the best options for automatics.

To use a manual you would want an M5OD-R2. The early 4.2L version works with only minor modifications. The 5.0 version also works well, but has a deeper bellhousing and can cause some fitment issues.
 

Otto57

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Ok I think the M50D-R2 sounds like my best option as long as the shifter location is the same and i can make the slave cylinder work. Only minor modifications? I'm try to keep my budget under control. Thanks for all the great info
 

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