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Using a resistor for LED lights?


MikeG

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Good to know you've got it all documented .... ;)
 


Bgunner

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Im currently at phase 2 drunk. I can still be quite articulate at this phase in the process. You won't see a marked increase in grammatical error or any decline in advanced reasoning ability until phase 3. At phase 4 rational thought begins a steep decline and my posts will most likely become rambling. By stage 5 anything I post will be merely jibberish if I am even able to type at all.
Well my issue is that phase 2 ends up being phase 5 so quickly that 3 and 4 seem to get skipped.... :icon_rofl:

I got stoned one day and walked in circles around my F150 for close to 20 mins before I figured out what I was doing before hand. My cousin and his GF were just watching me laughing there rears off through the window.
 

Bgunner

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Picked up the Line Resistors and realized they need to be mounted to metal and due to the room inside the mounting hole I also ordered thermal tape to mount it since putting screws in there is not the best idea unless I want the tips to stick out through the interior trim pieces. That's not quite the look I'm going for. Sure wish they included them but nope. Now I have it for the next time I need to put heat sinks on something.

Double sided thermal tape
 

cbxer55

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I put LED lights on all four corners of my Lightning. I could not, for the life of me, find the flasher. So I used four Load Equalizers, bought from Advance Auto to return the signals to their normal flash rate. Yeah, have to be mounted on metal, since the metal is used as a heat sink.
 

Bgunner

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Got the load leveling resistor installed and the light is out now. I did test with the original light and the light worked properly so it just needed the resistor installed. I'm hoping that the dash brake light is out now because that one has been on dim for quite some time. It's just to bright out now to tell for sure if it's out.
 

Dirtman

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You would think those terrible quick splice connectors you used would add more than enough resistance... :ROFLMAO:

Seriously man, wtf... at the bare minimum go get some damn heat shrink butt splice connectors. Go stand in the corner and think about what you've done.
 

Bgunner

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You would think those terrible quick splice connectors you used would add more than enough resistance... :ROFLMAO:

Seriously man, wtf... at the bare minimum go get some damn heat shrink butt splice connectors. Go stand in the corner and think about what you've done.
The instructions said not to cut the wires and this was much easier than using the heat shrink I have in the drawer and the solder iron. This area is not out in the weather in fact I needed to purchase new gaskets for the light as it was. Moisture will not be an issue where it is mounted so there is no need for the whole solder and heat shrink.

I do have heatshrink butt connectors in the drawer also but again moisture and weather will not get to where it is at.

Now that it is dark I did check the brake light in the dash and it is out again so that light being on dim is caused by a brake light being out or in my case not enough load on the circuit.
 

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