Updating the 2.9L Tech Page - Suggestions Needed




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what-about-rangers

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need help tearing apart my ranger its a 90 and i need to know how to get the differentail off. and i also need to know how to get the passenger side front axel off the easiest ways for both please
 
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jaymegriffiths

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What works and doesn't work to get power out of a 2.9
if you havent already throw a k&n factory replacement air filter in. Mine did some serious exhaust note changing and from what Ive read getting an exhaust change out of an intake mod means you've done something substancial. Small economy/ power gains.(maybe a horse and 2-3 mpg's, due to a dirty previous filter)
 

mentalbreakdown00

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A long time ago I ported my 2.9 heads, but did not have a flow bench to test port to port variation. In the end I ended up achieving about 5 mpg more with my ported heads, exhaust and headers, matched upp and lower intakes. Might be useful to show where you can cut that big thermactor port out of the exhaust port in the head that eats up a lot of space in it, but I had to use studs on I think it was 4 of the valve cover bolt holes, because when you grin them down it exposes the bottom of the hole on em. I just got some studs and red locktite and screwed 'em down shaved the bottom of the stud and kept going.
 

wannaturbo2.9

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I put a mass air flow computer from a 90 cal emission into my bII. I've heard that is the system for tuning a 2.9.
 

88Rangernewbie

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Thank You

Need to let people know that it's not worn cam bearings or air in the lifters
that is causing the infamous ticking.
What is causing the ticking is clogged rocker armshafts that is restricting oil flow, thus causing lifters to wear out and tick because of poor oil circulation.:icon_thumby:
Hey thanks that is what I needed to know!:icon_thumby: I thought I may need to change heads or something,it was driveing me CRAZY!!!!!!!:icon_thumby::icon_cheers: I tryed evrything. ( I thought )
 

88Rangernewbie

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For Sure

For those really NEW to the ranger a nice picture of the infamious "spout" would be good. for when doing tune ups. those who are well seasoned around the ranger, may not think it necessary.
:clapping: I looked for that "spout" thing for 4 hours till I just gave up:icon_confused:
 

88Rangernewbie

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Thank you

Need to let people know that it's not worn cam bearings or air in the lifters
that is causing the infamous ticking.
What is causing the ticking is clogged rocker armshafts that is restricting oil flow, thus causing lifters to wear out and tick because of poor oil circulation.:icon_thumby:
Just what I needed to know
 

Carricks89Ranger

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Best way

I found the best way to add power to my 2.9 was to rebuild it. No more ticking. Make sure your lifter bores are clean and free of buildup, make sure your oil filter housing bolt is tight so you dont lose oil pressure to the top of the motor. get a k&n and maybe a coil. My Ranger goes like stink now.
 

loneranger48

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yeah a friend told me he put a K&N on his truck with an MSD coil and now its runs like a raped ape.
 

copperminer2002

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Hey Jim, I don't know if you are wamting to add stuff or not, but I found this on Autozone's site. Its how to test your coil.
•Check the ignition switch.
•Connect a 12-volt test lamp from the coil tachometer (tach) terminal to ground.
•Turn on the ignition switch.
•The test light normally should be on. if the test light is off, there is an open circuit in the coil primary winding or in the circuit from the ignition switch to the coil battery terminal. on many chrysler and ford systems, the test light should be off because the module primary circuit is closed. since there is primary current flow, most of the voltage is dropped across the primary coil winding. this action results in very low voltage at the tach terminal, which does not illuminate the test light. on these systems, if the test light is illuminated, there is an open circuit in the module or in the wire between the coil and the module.
•Crank the engine and observe the test light. If the test light flutters while the engine is cranked, the pick-up coil signal and the module are okay. When the test lamp does not flutter, the pick-up and/or module are bad. A pick-up is tested with an ohmmeter. If the pick-up coil is satisfactory, the module is defective. Before testing the pick-up, check the voltage supply to the positive primary coil terminal with the ignition switch on before the diagnosis is continued.
•If the test light flutters, connect a spark plug to the coil secondary wire, and ground the spark plug case. The test spark plug must have the correct voltage requirement for the ignition system being tested.
•Crank the engine and observe the spark plug. If the test spark plug fires, the ignition coil is satisfactory. If the test spark plug does not fire, the coil is probably defective because the primary circuit no-start proved the primary circuit is triggering on and off.
•Connect the test spark plug to several spark plug wires and crank the engine while observing the spark plug. If the test spark plug fired in step 4 but does not fire at some of the spark plugs, the secondary voltage and current is leaking through a defective distributor cap, rotor, or spark plug wires, or a plug wire is open. If the test spark plug fires at all the spark plugs, the ignition system is working fine.
•If the cause of the no-start condition has not yet been found, check the ignition coil with an ohmmeter. If the winding resistance readings are not within specifications, replace the coil or coil pack. If the coils are fine, check the primary circuit for proper voltage.
Ignition Coil Resistance

•With the key off and the battery lead to the ignition coil disconnected, use an ohmmeter to measure the primary and secondary winding resistance of the ignition coil. when checking the resistance across the windings, pay particular attention to the meter reading. if the reading is out of specifications, even if it is only slightly out, the coil or coil assembly should be replaced.
•To check the primary windings, calibrate an ohmmeter on the X1 scale and connect the meter leads to the primary coil terminals to test the winding.

Ohmmeter connected to primary coil terminals.
•An infinite ohmmeter reading indicates an open winding. The winding is shorted if the meter reading is below the specified resistance. Most primary windings have a resistance of 0.5 to 2 ohms, but the exact manufacturer's specifications must be compared to the meter readings.
•To check the secondary winding, calibrate the meter on the X1,000 scale and connect it from the coil's secondary terminal to one of the primary terminals.

Ohmmeter connected from one primary terminal to the coil tower to test secondary winding.
•A meter reading below the specified resistance indicates a shorted secondary winding. An infinite meter reading proves that the winding is open.
•In some coils, the secondary winding is connected from the secondary terminal to the coil frame. When the secondary winding is tested in these coils, the ohmmeter must be connected from the secondary coil terminal to the coil frame or to the ground wire terminal extending from the coil frame. Many secondary windings have 8,000 to 20,000 ohms resistance, but the meter readings must be compared to the manufacturer's specifications. The ohmmeter tests do not indicate such defects as defective insulation around the coil windings, which causes high-voltage leaks. Therefore, an accurate indication of coil condition is the coil maximum voltage output test with a test spark plug connected from the coil secondary wire to ground as explained in the no-start diagnosis.
__________________
FORD_if_acation88
 

coulrophobian

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How about swapping the stock 2.9 radiator for a dual row from an Explorer? I did it to my 89 2.9L Ranger and it stays super cool (I think we have all read an article or two about these engines getting hot!). I got the radiator out of a 92 4.0L Explorer. If I remember correctly, the lower hose was almost identical, but the upper hose needed some modification (2.9 radiator nipple came straight out, whereas the 4.0 radiator nipple came out at an angle towards the passenger fender). I used the 92 Explorer upper hose and cut about an inch off of the thermostat side, and cut off just passed the second bend of the radiator side. Perfect fit!
 
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low_five

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the best modification for keeping your ranger running cool is to drive it in Alaska.
 

gaz

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Best performance enhancing component for 2,9l

Of all the parts, bolt-ons and performance parts I have used on the Ford 2.9l 60 degree V6 engines, one stands out far from the rest. Replacing the crankcase driven fan with a suitable electric fan. This freed up more noticable power than any other single change or component i have used.

#2, free flow muffler
#3, replacement style K+N air filter
#4, computer chip; I rate the Hypertech chip higher than the JET but only because the fuel mileage has been better with the Hypertech.
#5, Accell 300+ digital ignition
#6, rocker spacers
#7, synthetic fluids all around
#8, corrected gear ratio (what ever gears it takes to make the vehilce run the same engine speed @ 60 as with stock tires is CORRECT).
#9, monitoring correct tire pressure
#10, increase ratio rockers, good for towing at highway speeds

The Utilmate performance part surprised me and actually weighs in above the electric fan in "overall performance" = having the heads (new style) and intake manifolds port and polished and Flo-matched on the a flow bench. This along with the computer chip made everything else work to it's full potential. I wish I had done it 20 years ago.

Three additional gems are the Ford factory Hi-Rider 2 Inch Suspension lift, Skyjacker front suspension coils and James Duff dual shocks all around for cornering and roll control.
 

dpete

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corretions

Just correcting the spelling and wording would be a big help. For example: Under 2.9 what works in the TB section there is a statement.....and tend to increase power in the 3k and up range, without one of these....I did this and got much more than 3hp if that is what is being said. In the 30hp range? That may be a bit much, but I sure can feel it in the seat of my pants when I get on it.
 


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