2.3L ('83-'97) Update!!! Could it be the ignition control module??!


DustinW2

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Still dying after it starts or still has a power loss?
Power loss might be related to the catalytic converter. Have you figured out how to pull codes on an OBDI ?
Dying after it starts could be any number of things, I wouldn't even know where to say start. Possibly emissions related, ignition, fuses/relays. I'd expect it's either fuel or ignition, or some of the emissions (sender, sensor, computer,ICM)
Maybe someone else has some better clues.
Keep looking and checking and chiming back with you find or don't find.

Like my aunt Rosanna Roseannadanna used to say, "That just goes to show, it's alllways somethin!" :)
I have no idea how to run obd1... any ideas?
 


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Josh B

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I have no idea how to run obd1... any ideas?
I believe there's a write up about doing that in the tech section Dustin

 

DustinW2

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I have a 1990 ford ranger 2.3l 5 speed manual and I can NOT figure out my issue... I’ve been driving it for a while and it started right up like off the show room floor. I had my dad drive it to help me diagnose a power issue and he said put new injectors in. So I did. As I was doing so, I finished putting all brand new injectors and pressure regulator in and I went to go turn the key and it started with a little higher rpm than usual and then died immediately after. It seemed like a vacuum leak and then I checked. The FPR hose wasn’t plugged into the vacuum tree. I went to go turn the key for the second time and it still died after firing up. I tried giving it throttle in order to get the engine running and the computer caught up but all I got was a Pop from the engine bay. Keep in mind I am a 16 year old kid in a auto shop class in high school... I love cars to death and know a little more than most kids my age. If you guys could help me, that’ll be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
Okay... I’ve already replaced the intake manifold as of my new injectors and hasn’t ran ever since. I have been doing my research and it seems like it’s a sensor now. Maybe a Crank position sensor or a ignition control module, because it sounds like it’s just losing fuel before it cuts out. Still can’t figure out the pop though. I’ll look into the timing in the mean time, if you guys could give me any advice before I drop some cash on these parts lol. Thanks guys ????
 

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Some times are a bit slower here than others Dustin. It might be tomorrow before you start getting some answers
 

Uncle Gump

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What is your fuel pressure?
 

DustinW2

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What is your fuel pressure?
It’s what it’s supposed to be at and I’ve replaced everything that has to do with fuel so it’s not a pump... it just sounds like a computer/sensor that isn’t kicking on :/
 

Uncle Gump

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I just didn't see anywhere in this thread where you said you checked fuel pressure. So you have a fuel pressure gage?
 

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It’s what it’s supposed to be at and I’ve replaced everything that has to do with fuel so it’s not a pump... it just sounds like a computer/sensor that isn’t kicking on :/
What is your fuel pressure supposed to be at? Give us numbers please.
 

DustinW2

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It’s at 39 psi at the rail which is in spec. But it doesn’t explain the pop. It seems like I got a valve stuck open. It needs to be redone anyway so I’m gonna get that refreshed. I can’t test exact fuel pressure because it won’t run lol
 

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So the pop you got was when you tried to blip the throttle while cranking? Could be a lean fuel issue. Also you shouldn't need to touch the throttle while cranking. The computer expects the throttle to be closed while cranking.
Have you checked the plugs for signs of fuel or fouling?
 

DustinW2

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No I haven’t... I haven’t ever had a fouled plug before but I’m willing to check... but do you have any ideas on why it would be at a higher rpm when you turn the key??
 

DustinW2

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One more question... how the F$&@ do you get these damn spring lock fuel lines off ??
 

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That ^^^ and make sure the locks are clean. Perhaps lubed with a light lube or penetrating oil as well.
 

DustinW2

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Okay I’m back guys!!! I got the the thing running at 3500 RPM and jumping at idle, which is obviously not correct. This was without the throttle position sensor plugged in. When I did plug in the TPS it stayed at 3500 consistently and then shut off after 5 secs. I replaced MAF, IAC,TPS, MAP, CPS and I checked the timing and were all set... I have no clue now... but I got it running. That’s progress any tips will be a great help. ????
 


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