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Unresponsive gas pedal, backfires - 2011 XLT 4.0L


2011XLT-V6

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I have a 2011 Ranger XLT 4.0L with ~80k miles on it. I bought it in Dec 2019 and it ran great until somewhere around 6-8 months ago. I don't drive it very often, maybe 5-7k miles per year.

I'm going to try and list off the symptoms I've had along with fixes I've tried as close to in order as I can. I should also note, it's not an actual backfire through the intake, it's a rather large explosion out of the exhaust, presumably from unburnt gas.

A couple month after I bought the truck I was cruising at about 60MPH and the RPMs dropped to about idle and the gas pedal became entirely unresponsive. No amount of pushing on the pedal increased the RPMs or caused the truck to maintain/gain speed; it was just entirely unresponsive. After some time it would just pick back up as if nothing weird happened. I also noticed it didn't up to normal operating temp (especially on cold days). It would get stuck around 165F.

A few months ago, my wife had to take the truck to her normal pregnancy check up and said the truck was "very slow." I hadn't noticed mainly because I don't drive it often and when I do, it's just on back roads under 45MPH. Took it for a drive a few days later and it would drive mostly fine under 3k RPMs, but wouldn't accelerate at all if floored at 45 MPH. RPMs would rise and truck wouldn't gain any speed. It also started doing the unresponsive gas pedal trick a lot more often. typically every time I drove it. Found both catalytic converters to be broken apart and clogging the exhaust. Hollowed both out and added anti-foulers to prevent the CEL and it runs great... I was hopeful that fixed all the issues. Drove it a bit and it still did the unresponsive gas pedal thing and it also backfired for the first time. I also noticed around this time that it has never done the unresponsive pedal while cold, only after it's had time to warm up...

Next time I had a chance to do some more diagnostics I checked fuel pressure at the rail which was reading a steady 66 PSI. I also let it idle for long enough to get up to temp and noticed that it was also having a stutter occasionally. A quick drop in RPM but typically came right back; see here:
On occasion it would stall, though. See here:
. I also tried swapping the fuel pump relay which had no affect.

Next chance I had I changed out the thermostat and temp sender as I had already bought them knowing about the temp issue. I drove the truck that night to pick up a pizza for dinner and it did the unresponsive pedal trick once on the way there (~10 minute drive). After that it didn't do it a single time in about 1.75 hours worth of driving. I was hopeful it was fixed...again. Not sure exactly how the thermostat would have fixed it but whatever, I wasn't going to question it.

Just a couple days ago I had some large items to bring to the local dump (~5 minute drive) to dispose of and the truck started acting up again. I didn't bother looking into much that night as my brother was visiting from out of state and wanted to spend time with him.

Tonight I had a little time, so I jumped the inertia switch thinking maybe it was on the way out and causing fueling issues. Drove the truck for maybe 15-20 minutes and it was the worst it's been. Very frequent unresponsive pedal along with backfires almost every time. Clearly not the inertia switch.... I had also hooked up my bluetooth OBDII thing and was watching various real time data and noticed short term fuel trims going through the roof when the pedal became unresponsive (regardless of me pressing the pedal). Well upwards of 25% which clearly isn't normal.

So that's where I'm at with this truck. Getting a bit discouraged at the moment, especially after having a 2004 4.0L with not a single issue over the 5 years I had it (other than rusting apart from New England winters)... Here's a quick summary list of things I've done so far:

Hollowed out both cats, added anti-foulers and one new O2 sensor (bank 1 downstream)
Swap fuel pump relay
New thermostat and temp sender
Jumped inertia switch
Checked fuel pressure at rail (66PSI)
edit: visually inspected TPS. Operated smoothly and clean.

After ruling out fuel pump related items, I'm thinking spark is probably my next step... I'd love to get some thoughts from others though so I'm not just diving down endless (or wrong) rabbit holes. Thanks for reading and thanks for any help!
 
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600$04Ranger

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Have you checked the throttle position sensor? It's easily accessible at least. Never had a problem with mine but sounds like an issue I had with an old Volvo. It would randomly lose power and get unresponsive acceleration at any speed or driving condition. New TPS fixed it. Hope you figure it out soon!
 

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What codes are in the pcm?
 

2011XLT-V6

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Sorry, completely forgot about the TPS. I didn't do any formal testing on it but did take it off and made sure it operated smoothly and was clean. Didn't seem to be the issue to me but as I said, didn't do any actual testing on it.

Also of note is that the are no CEL or pending codes. The only codes the truck has thrown since I've had it are P0430 and P0420 which were resolved with the replacement O2 and hollowed cats. It hasn't thrown any codes with the unresponsive throttle and backfiring.
 

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Sorry, completely forgot about the TPS. I didn't do any formal testing on it but did take it off and made sure it operated smoothly and was clean. Didn't seem to be the issue to me but as I said, didn't do any actual testing on it.

Also of note is that the are no CEL or pending codes. The only codes the truck has thrown since I've had it are P0430 and P0420 which were resolved with the replacement O2 and hollowed cats. It hasn't thrown any codes with the unresponsive throttle and backfiring.

Did you hollow the cats or replace hollowed out cats?
 

2011XLT-V6

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Did you hollow the cats or replace hollowed out cats?
I hollowed both out. At the time I didn't want to spend the money to replace them especially if they weren't the fix for my issue(s). We don't have emissions testing where I am, so that isn't a concern. I might replace them in the future once the other issues are resolved.
 

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It's probably not wise to admit to committing felonies on the internet. :dunno:
 

2011XLT-V6

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I'm not here for an internet argument but I'm sure you've also been in a position where spending $2k to replace parts that may not fix your issue isn't in the cards. I need to get the truck operational first and see what that's going to cost me, I'll deal with replacement cats later.
 

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Typically when you backfire out the exhaust... she's dumping a bit to much fuel... then it gets hot and ignites.

Does it seem to be hitting on all 6?

Is it intermittent or a constant problem.

Edit... seems it may have been rich for awhile... if it plugged up your cats in the first place.
 

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Also... have you pulled the plugs to see what they look like?

What plugs do you have in it?
 

600$04Ranger

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I found out that the previous owner had gutted all 3 cats. Bought it for only $600 off Craigslist knowing it needed a ton of work so wasn't too upset after pulling exhaust and staring into emptiness. Replaced the 2 on the y pipe since the O2 sensors are testing before and after those cats. The 3rd gutted 3rd cat might lead to failing an emissions test but isn't necessary as far as throwing your air fuel ratio a off. You can find universal cats to replace the first two and have them welded to your existing y pipe for less than 600 bucks for parts and labor. Or maybe find a direct fit y pipe for less? Hopefully this forum helps you avoid unnecessary frustration and wasted dollars. There's a lot of exceptional problem solvers happy to lend knowledge and advice here. Best!
 

2011XLT-V6

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Typically when you backfire out the exhaust... she's dumping a bit to much fuel... then it gets hot and ignites.

Does it seem to be hitting on all 6?

Is it intermittent or a constant problem.

Edit... seems it may have been rich for awhile... if it plugged up your cats in the first place.
Yeah, dumping fuel would also be confirmed by the trims going sky high when it happens. I just need to figure out why now.

It's intermittent. After replacing the thermostat and sender it didn't have a single hiccup for nearly two hours of driving. The next time I drove it I took it on a five minute drive to my local dump and it was acting up on the whole way home. Was cruising at 60, throttle went unresponsive and I coasted down to about 30mph before it picked back up.

It runs great otherwise, definitely seems to be firing on all 6 cylinders.

I haven't checked plugs/wires/coil yet, although it is next on my list. Free time isn't something I have much of as I have a 1.5 year old that I chase around all day and a pregnant wife o_O
 

2011XLT-V6

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For anyone who has similar symptoms in the future and finds this thread I wanted to post the solution to my issue.

In my case the PCM was toast. It took the dealership ~1.5 months to figure it out. I ran out of time to troubleshoot as my son was about to be born so I dropped it off with my local Ford dealer. They were surprisingly awesome to work with, they let me source parts and even swap them myself (in the parking lot).

I went with a Cardone reman PCM at the dealers suggestion as the OEM new one was ~$1,900. Unfortunately the first one I got was either broken or for the wrong configuration as it threw a load of transmission wire ground faults in Fords IDS software. The second one that I got from NAPA worked perfectly though.

Also, for the guy who was concerned about my hollowed cats, they are now replaced :rolleyes:
 

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