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Trying to identify my lift situation so I can replace shocks / springs. Pics attached.

alwaysFlOoReD

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BlackBII

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Do you have a pic of the whole truck? It looks like the back would be a good 2" higher than the front with how it's setup now.

You could get rid of the second block and replace the front coils, and then just get factory replacement shocks.
 

Scrambler82

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WWWhhhaaattt !?!
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To identify your lift SITUATION, all I can say it dangerous at best, but you have heard that one already.
YIPES is my second thought... but SuperLift uses the OEM Blocks and an additional block for the rear lift, and then you have the front coils WITH Spreaders... I think !

All I can say is it is a mess and looks to be on the dangerous side of a lift kit, if you can call it a kit !

If it was me and I got a truck with this mess underneath I would rip it all out and replace it with a decent kit.
If you aren't doing heavy off-loading, there a couple of kit out there that would be safer than what you have.
My only changes to the kit, I did two, one was to eliminate the blocks for the rear lift. I used SkyJacker 6" Rear Spring, no blocks, new U-Bolts. Also added, but not necessary the Coil-Over Shock for the front.

The rear blocks, every time you take off, must twist the rear spring into "S's", if a Home-Made... it is almost undeniable why they were used but why are the newer kits using double block ? The problem is this, when the springs are twisted on take off and in spinning-grabbing situations, it can work harden the spring. How long has the rear springs been in this situation, I would find out and double check the springs for any cracking around the spring/axle and spring frame mounting positions.

Good Luck !

Ltr
 
Last edited:

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Sooooo, Nobody's gonna mention the rust on these buckets?
58280

I live in a rust free environment, so I don't know how bad this actually is.
58281

Looks like that cheepazz spacer is about to break, so ne need to even bother with that. It will rust itself of in about 20 minutes from now.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Sooooo, Nobody's gonna mention the rust on these buckets?
View attachment 58280
I live in a rust free environment, so I don't know how bad this actually is.
View attachment 58281
Looks like that cheepazz spacer is about to break, so ne need to even bother with that. It will rust itself of in about 20 minutes from now.
That rust isn't bad. The worst spot will be on the passenger side in between the bucket and the frame. Dirt gets trapped and results in very thin frame and bucket where they touch. I found that on my racetruck and patched it. It's still holding.
 

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Here's a pic of the truck from the side to get a feel for the lift. I think it's perfect. Looks stock +. I'm not going mudding or off roading probably ever. So this seems to add a healthy look, whilst just keeping it classy (minus whats going on beneath lol).
58295

58294
 

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If I were to get the 1990 explorer Moog springs to replace the front, what shocks would be a good match for front and rear if i just keep the current blocks & leafs in? Or is that even a good idea? I dunno - just trying to get to a simple conclusion of how to handle this, and literally what to order without going higher on the lift. It seems like everywhere only does 4" lift, and i feel like that would be too much. But stock replacement would be too low.

Really appreciate all of your input!
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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It's impossible to judge where the springs will leave the trucks height. The bandaid solution on the front isn't something done too often. Install the new springs and then if needed add washers under the springs as detailed in the tech section. I think washers are good for up to a 2" lift.
 

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It's impossible to judge where the springs will leave the trucks height. The bandaid solution on the front isn't something done too often. Install the new springs and then if needed add washers under the springs as detailed in the tech section. I think washers are good for up to a 2" lift.
Good idea, will start there. As for shocks? Do i need a shock for extended travel? Any particular ones come to mind as a solid choice?
 

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Sooooo, Nobody's gonna mention the rust on these buckets?
View attachment 58280
I live in a rust free environment, so I don't know how bad this actually is.
View attachment 58281
Looks like that cheepazz spacer is about to break, so ne need to even bother with that. It will rust itself of in about 20 minutes from now.
That’s just minor surface rot (<— registered trademark, you can use the term for a small fee). I wouldn’t worry about it yet.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Good idea, will start there. As for shocks? Do i need a shock for extended travel? Any particular ones come to mind as a solid choice?
I would measure for shocks after you have figured out ride height. Someone here can run you thru how to do that if I'm not around.

Edit; thinking that the same shocks as the explorer should work length wise. If you do a washer lift you can add that length to the stock washer to come up with a new shock length or maybe buy shock extensions of the same length as the thickness of washer times 1.25
And I'm cheap, I run whatever is cheapest so cant reccomend anything in particular.
 
Last edited:

Scrambler82

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The pictures of your truck are nice, I like the first generation; had an '88 STX High Rider, miss that one !

I've read the postings, interesting methods but how you get your lift is really your choice but where are you getting the info on putting together random pieces and hoping they work together ?
I have always found... when KLUGING things together, SOMETHING always goes wrong.
I never threw together a lift but there is always that thing you do that doesn't work no matter what ! Wrong spring rate, wrong shocks, too many blocks.
Lifting the frontend of a 1st Gen requires the TTBs to be dropped in the middle of the truck as well as the outside ends, this allows for proper alignment of the wheels.

To me, save some money and buy a Lift Kit designed for the truck, my '88 STX had the SkyJacker 4.5-5" Kit and I was happy with the result. Nothing to determine... it will work... it just bolts in, more time consuming than anything else.
That way you have a working kit, with all the pieces designed to work together.

If after the kit is inlace, you feel the springs are doing what you want... go to a shop that has experience in Lift kits and see what they can do to get the best shock for your needs.

I know this takes money, not sure where you stand in that arena but doing it right the first time, when you are talking suspension parts is the only way to go.

Ltr
 

Kegworth

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Okay - I'm thinking about leaving the rear blocks & leafs for now, and just replacing the shocks all the way around and the front springs using a leveling spring kit. I just don't want a 4" lifted truck, just doesn't work for me. I'm really happy w the rear height, the front looks good to me too, just a little lower than rear which i like. Trying to figure out if I did 1.5" leveling springs, if that would be about the same height on the front that its currently at. I can't for the life of me figure out how to gauge what they've done w the front springs to get the height. Should I measure the compressed length and then match that length to the RC leveling springs and try to match it?
 

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Having played with similar lift heights and much studying, I gotta know. What size are those tires? That way we can make a more edumacated guess as to how tall you truck is.
 

pjtoledo

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That’s just minor surface rot (<— registered trademark, you can use the term for a small fee). I wouldn’t worry about it yet.
between the frame and bucket it will probably be much worse. only way to find out is destructive testing, take the bucket off.
unfortunately that's a lot of work to get answers your don't want to see.
 

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