Truck is not starting.

[Matt71]

I have a 1990 2wd Ranger with the 4.0. I replaced the fuel pump and the fuel filter recently and it ran fine. Suddenly it wont start. It has spark, fuel and the air filter is clean. When I put the OBD1 code reader on it, it won't read any codes. When I push the test button on the code reader, I get nothing. The computer is supposed to make a clicking sound as it goes through a test cycle. Could this be a bad EEC? I have replaced the TPS and IAC valve as well. If I had hair, I would be pulling it out now! Thanks all.

 

[Dirtman]

When you say it won't start, is it cranking and just not firing? Just clicking? Not doing anything at all when you turn the key?

 

[Matt71]

It will turn over but not fire. It acts like it wants to but nothing. I checked the Schrader valve on the fuel rail and fuel came out. I pulled a plug, attached a wire and grounded it. Plug sparked when it was turned over.

 

[RonD]

Does the CEL(check engine light) come on with key on, that means computer(EEC) is powering up
No CEL means computer is not getting 12volt or is bad

And its not getting spark and fuel, if it was it would start

You can spray fuel into the intake and see if it starts, called 50/50 test
If it starts and then dies it has spark at the right time but no fuel delivery
If it doesn't start/fire then no spark
50/50 instant results

In 1990-1994 Ranger 4.0l the spark is done by a separate module, fuel delivery is done by the computer

 

[Dirtman]

It will turn over but not fire. It acts like it wants to but nothing. I checked the Schrader valve on the fuel rail and fuel came out. I pulled a plug, attached a wire and grounded it. Plug sparked when it was turned over.

Just because fuel came out of the rail doesn't mean the injectors are working or that you have enough pressure. Do the test Ron described to confirm a fuel issue.

 

[Matt71]

Got a chance to work on it today. Sprayed starting fluid in and it started and ran. Throttle is not very responsive. I think I have a bad new TPS. When I unscrew the TPS and remove it while running, there is no change in throttle response.

The check engine light is on as well.

 

[Matt71]

Got a chance to work on it today. Sprayed starting fluid in and it started and ran. Throttle is not very responsive. I think I have a bad new TPS. When I unscrew the TPS and remove it while running, there is no change in throttle response.

The check engine light is on as well.

Update

I changed the TPS with a Ford brand and it started up. Still idles rough and I get a hissing sound from what I believe is the fuel pressure regulator. I put my OBD1 reader on and get a code 98. Crap.

 

[RonD]

Always good to post definition with code for two reasons, first is NO ONE has then all memorized, lol, and second you may have the wrong definition

98 Did not pass KOEO yet (Get 11 in KOEO first)

So a test code not a "trouble" code

Or if automatic transmission
98 Transmission EPC circuit/solenoid failure
Which you don't have in a 1990 Ranger automatic

Hiss near fuel pressure regulator(FPR) means it vacuum hose is unplugged or is leaking
So a vacuum leak, fix it, the leak not the FPR it's fine unless it's vacuum diaphragm is whats leaking


So it started and KEPT running by adding fuel manually........................
Not quite following
You had a no start, so you either had no spark or no fuel
The 50/50 test should go one of two ways
It started, ran and STALLED that would mean fuel delivery issue
It didn't start/fire, so spark issue

Starting and staying running means you didn't have a No Start at that time

 

[Matt71]

Always good to post definition with code for two reasons, first is NO ONE has then all memorized, lol, and second you may have the wrong definition

98 Did not pass KOEO yet (Get 11 in KOEO first)

So a test code not a "trouble" code

Or if automatic transmission
98 Transmission EPC circuit/solenoid failure
Which you don't have in a 1990 Ranger automatic

Hiss near fuel pressure regulator(FPR) means it vacuum hose is unplugged or is leaking
So a vacuum leak, fix it, the leak not the FPR it's fine unless it's vacuum diaphragm is whats leaking


So it started and KEPT running by adding fuel manually........................
Not quite following
You had a no start, so you either had no spark or no fuel
The 50/50 test should go one of two ways
It started, ran and STALLED that would mean fuel delivery issue
It didn't start/fire, so spark issue

Starting and staying running means you didn't have a No Start at that time

It started and ran when I put starting fluid in. After it started, with help, it would continue to run on it's own just not very well. It wouldn't start without help. I replaced the TPS and it started and ran on it's own. I have been noticing a lack of power corresponding with hissing from the FPR. It isn't the vacuum line, it is at or near the connection of the fuel line on the top. I will start it and move the fuel line and determine if it is the connection or diaphragm.

When I called the tech line for the code reader, I was told to check the codes with the engine running. I did that today and got the code 98, "test failure, hard fault repeat sequence" according to the book. I also got a code 63, which shouldn't come up when it is running. I thought the 63 was in memory from the last test.

 

[RonD]

Fuel pressure regulator is connected to the OUT back to gas tank fuel line
The IN from fuel pump line is on drivers side of lower intake, fuel rail

When did you last get gasoline?
It reads like you either have very low fuel pressure or "bad gas"

There is a fuel pressure test port on passenger side of fuel rail, looks like a tires air valve because that is what it is, a schrader valve
It may have a cap on it, just like a tires air valve, take it off
There should be 30-40psi fuel pressure, so be careful
Press the pin, fuel should SQUIRT OUT, like air from a tires air valve, same 30psi pressure