Trouble removing radius arms from d35

[n_bannerman]

Having trouble getting radius arms off of a d35 I just picked up. I've used 5 foot breaker bar with hitting the bolt with a sledge hoping that would work and also hit it time and time again with a battery powered impact. The bolts have been soaking in lots of pb blast for the last 2 days and have not been able to make anything happen. Any ideas?

 

[scotts90ranger]

heat is your friend, they are loctited in place, after doing a couple I've had to double up wrenches and use two propane torches heating the bolt before they would break loose.

 

[legoms013]

Even in the non-rusty envoronment I like to call CA I had to heat them red hot and use an impact.

Your battery impact won't cut it you need something with "hundreds" of ft*lbs of torque.

Don't think I could have done mine without heat or without an impact they are lock-tited in there ridiculously good

 

[n_bannerman]

Thanks guys, looks like I need to break down and get a compressor and real impact.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

A good impact didn't help me [with no heat]. I used a 6 foot snipe over a 3/4" breaker bar adapted to 1/2" impact socket. At the time I didn't know about the factory locktight so didn't use heat. It was a work-out and I felt it for the next couple days. I don't know that the little propane bottle type flame would be hot enough - quick enough for me. mapp gas might. oxy-acet for sure would work. The b-pressure acet. tanks would have enough heat too.
Good luck, and let us know what you do.

Richard

 

[nooch450]

I had a 1/2" breaker bar and a 10ft pole on one of mine that would not come out... That 10 footer and alot of heat did the trick...

 

[pillen140]

Mine were rusted to crap.... a map gas torch will get it enough... just takes a few mins. I did mine with a small map gas torch and a 3ft breaker bar.... the hell with impacts.

 

[4x4junkie]

Propane torch is all I used. You do have to crank it full-blast, but it'll do it.

If the knuckle is off, you can hit the bolt bosses directly with the heat, otherwise a little time heating up that area of the beams and bolt heads should do it.

 

[n_bannerman]

Thanks guys I ended up getting the driver side done just to notice the crossmember is twisted up at the passenger beam pivot so d30 sas it will be.

 

[scotts90ranger]

just as a note, the Harbor Freight $12 torch gives out a huge flame, that and their 25" breaker bar and I got two radius arms off of an axle that was sitting in my driveway, not to say there wasn't a bloody knuckle or two...

 

[nooch450]

Thanks guys I ended up getting the driver side done just to notice the crossmember is twisted up at the passenger beam pivot so d30 sas it will be.

So your going to build a off road truck by putting a weaker axle in? Fix the TTB up and build it correctly and never look back!

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[n_bannerman]

Withe the cross member bring twisted d30 fits the budget and is just as strong as the d35. Would rather build a badass beamed truck but it looks like that won't happen.

 

[n_bannerman]

I also only plan to go up to 35's max.

 

[nooch450]

D30 is not as strong... we bent the knuckles into camber on my cousins jeep not even driving it hard on 33s... the D35 is stronger but still wouldn't go past 33s on it...

Do a D44 or fix it lol

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[4x4junkie]

Yep. D30 = weaker housing, weaker gears.

How hard can it possibly be to straighten out a crossmember that apparently wasn't bent so bad you couldn't notice it at first?