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Tried everything. Heater still blows cold

grimcoyote

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Ok Everyone. I'm new to the site, but have been reading a lot of the threads and posts. I have learned a great deal from everyone here but I'm still having problems with my heat. Here's the deal... Heat blows cold on a '99 Ranger 2wd 3.0L 6 cylinder.
What I've done:
Checked blend door and actuator*(sp?): good
Check and flush heater core: good
Check flow gate and vacume: good
Flushed system: good
Replace Thermostat: good
Bleed air from system (many times): good
Checked flow to and from heater core: good
Replace radiator cap: good

The overflow tank is always bubbling and filling up after it warms up, even after the new thermostat and radiator cap. And, yes, I am using a straight 50/50 mix of Prestone.

Everything done and it still doesn't blow hot but maybe a very little every now and then. Please oh please help. Been working on this problem for a week and I'm going insane. AND, it's freakin cold outside lol. Thanks much
 


COPPERHEAD85

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Are the heater hose coming in to and out of the heater core getting warm?
 

Tedybear

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Well...let's see. If the air mix doors are working, and the blower motor is blowing? I'd pull the access cover if possible (not sure on yours--but on the older BII's you can remove the cover and see it) I'd pull the cover and see just how warm/hot the heater core really is getting. The cores have the in/out as part of the end casing. Just because you have water flow in/out? Does not mean it's actually flowing in the core itself.

S-
 

shane96ranger

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BlackBII

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Are the heater hose coming in to and out of the heater core getting warm?
Yes, this is what we need to know.

There are two heater hoses going to your firewall. Are they both warm/hot to the touch?
 

grimcoyote

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The feed hose to the core is warm but the return doesn't get warm, so Tedybear, what you are saying makes a ton of sense. Shane, yes the valve is working properly.

Yesterday, I had a new development. While driving in city and on highway, it would overheat. The guage would shoot up and stay just below the white line before redline, then it would go back down in thirty seconds or so. When the guage went down, the heat would blow hot, and when it would overheat, it would blow cold. Could I be also having a water pump problem. I figure that the engine should not be overheating no matter what kind of cab heating problem I'm having.

Unfortunately, there is no access door that I'm aware of. I swear, the '99 3.0L Ranger is the absolutely worst model to try to work on.
 

COPPERHEAD85

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That does kinda sound like a pump problem.
 

Tedybear

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Pump is likely. (good time to change out thermostat if not already done for any one reading up on this one) As for the heater core? I'd suggest replacement as well. Warm on one side and nadda on the other side? Might be a double whammy. (at the least. should be warm/warm....)

S-
 

ashleyroachclip

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If the core has been replaced , find out why you don't have the same temperature on both the inlet and outlet hoses.
You really have to check these thermostats we get anymore. I have an equal amount of them fail, so check them in a pan of water and the stove .

I would first recheck your system for leaks , and the fluid up to the proper level.
 

modelageek

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the heater hose going into the heater core should be HOT not warm.......your engine is running at around 200 degrees. water boils at 212.

it does sound like the fins on the pump might be gone.
 

greenbean93

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You don't even need a heater. Mine caught my Ranger on fire. Get an extinguisher.
 

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