Transmission (M5R1)/clutch issues rabbit hole

[jcook100]

1991 Ford Ranger 4.0 RWD

Main problem: I have a hard time shifting from 1st to 2nd, and sometimes into 1st. There is no grinding, I just have to push/yank the gearshift to get it in gear. I changed the transmission fluid, but realized that there is a broken seal/gasket where the driveshaft connects to the transmission (see picture). There is transmission fluid leaking at this seal (I think) and dripping from the bottom of the transmission housing. Changing the fluid may have helped a little, but the problem persists.

I also tried to pull out the clutch master cylinder and lines to check and bleed them, but ran into two additional issues. First, I could not remove the line connecting to the slave cylinder. I have watched the videos on this but still couldn't get it to release. Does the special tool make a big difference? I was just trying with a screwdriver, pliers, etc. And I don't need to remove the clamp from the female end, correct? Second, I noticed that my clutch pedal does not include a clutch interlock switch and the rod doesn't seem to really be "connected" to the cylinder - just basically sitting limply inside of it. Is it possible that someone remove the interlock switch before I purchased the truck? Do I need to get one?

So I am not sure how to approach these issues. Is it possible that bleeding the clutch will resolve the main issue? Or maybe replacing the slave cylinder? Or does it sound like a full rebuild is needed?

How should I prioritize my next steps? Thanks!

 

[Shran]

I think you can change that rear seal by just removing the driveshaft, if not, the tailhousing comes off with the trans in the truck. Good time to replace your shift rail plugs too, that's another infamous M5OD leak spot.

The special tool is a joke. I have two of them - one that came with a clutch set and an OEM brand one that I got at O'Reilly. Bent them both the first time I used them. Now I use a flat screwdriver and just work the release ring little by little until the line comes out.

You either have an interlock switch and it's shoved up in the dash somewhere, or it's been bypassed. You don't necessarily need to get one, it's function is simply to prevent the truck from being started in gear with the clutch engaged. The clutch rod goes through the middle of the interlock switch so someone probably just removed it. The rod SHOULD clip into the master cylinder and never come out... but it's possible that the clip has been removed or broken.

I'd try bleeding it first but it sounds like you're probably in for replacing the slave cylinder.

 

[jcook100]

Hi Shran, thanks for your very helpful response.

Do I need to remove that clip to get the clutch hose to release from the slave cylinder? I can't really get access to it, as the transmission housing is in the way. I might be able to "force" it out if need be, or access it from inside the housing window.

Also, do you know the size of tubing that fits that bleeder?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

The clip does not need to be removed. Over time dirt and dust get in there and make it very difficult to move. Use some wd40 and spray while turning the clip. You are trying to clean all the crap out. If you have air that can help too. The design of the connection is a bunch of little metal fingers hold the line in place. The collar moves back and releases the metal fingers. Its been a lot of years so I don't remember exact details.

 

[Shran]

Yeah, you don't need to remove the collar/clip. It should get pushed into the female part of the slave cylinder fitting and releases the connection. "Quick connect", yeah right!

3/8 hose may fit the bleeder... but some of those slave cylinders are just hex shaped and it's hard to get tubing and a wrench on it at the same time. Be prepared with rags.

 

[jcook100]

So I am actually referring to a metal clip that is on the female portion. You can barely see it in the photo I attached. I think it is the one also shown in the new system in this video (he shows a few different kinds):

.

If that is the case, then I guess I need to remove it? I am starting to wonder if someone has already replaced the slave cylinder and I am looking at an aftermarket one...

 

[Shran]

That slave cylinder in the video is not the same one you have. The white plastic ring on yours is supposed to be pushed into the female end, further than it already is, to release the quick connect coupling.

The black clip shown in the video, about 15 seconds in, is used on newer trucks - somewhere in the mid 90's was the change over to that style.

 

[jcook100]

Can you see it here though? It seems like I would have to remove it. Just can't get to it.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Its been a long time since I looked at mine. Leave the black clip alone. Pretty sure you push the (its dirty white in your pic) white split plastic collar towards the transmission. Like I said before, the inside will most likely be filled with dust and dirt so it will feel like it is solid. Spray wd40 and keep working the collar in all directions. Eventually you will work it loose enough to unlock the metal fingers holding the line in place. I use the ford tool but 2 smallish flathead screwdrivers will also work to push the collar.

 

[Shran]

Oh, you're right. Sorry, I missed that! Can you turn the female fitting so that the closed end of the clip faces the engine so that you have more clearance to push it out?

I have not seen that style of slave cylinder used on older trucks.