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Tranny Conversions


Dirmaid

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We all know that the newer ranger trannies become pieces of abstract art in most high power situations, right? I'm no expert on transmissions, but I do know many people love their 4.0 SOHC engines, and it is just sad that we have to leave this platform due to the weak link that sits behind it. I was wondering (not attempting to perform) what upgrades/conversions/swaps do you guys know of or wish to know of in order to build REAL power while keeping this great engine?

Keep in mind folks, this is about keeping your 4.0l, not swapping to a V8 just for the tranny.


I'm really just interested to see what you guys think and would like to collect this information for other members' future use :icon_thumby:
 


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RangerSVT

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Some have grabbed a 2.8l bell from an old mustang II, bolted that to the 4.0 and then bolted a mustang T5 to it...there is a kit going around to bolt up a 435 to the 4.0. There's one in the classifieds now...

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brinker88

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Yea best bet (for offroading) in the long run is the NP435. Although it shifts like a dumptruck, you will NEVER have to worry about breaking it
 

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Keep in mind folks, this is about keeping your 4.0l, not swapping to a V8 just for the tranny.
I'd swap to a V8 to get away from the timing chain design on the SOHC, not just the tranny.


AA makes an adapter to bolt a 700r4 to the 4.0l.
 

DJ Skillz

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This thread title got me all excited... then I realized it was about transmissions. :sad:
 

Dirmaid

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This thread title got me all excited... then I realized it was about transmissions. :sad:
repped for making me lulz


good stuff guys, keep it coming. that t5 conversion sounds interesting indeed. any specific years to look for? any special mods besudes obvious mounting issues?
 

NixRanger

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Are you saying that instead of dealing with the troublesome Toyo Kogyo in my '84 I can replace it with a transmission from a Mustang??THAT WOULD BE AWESOME !!

i'm running the 2.8 ......so the bolt pattern on the bell housing matches mustang T5??

What years/engine do I look for??
 

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Iirc, you need a bell off a 2.8l mustang (75-78 mustang ii), there are a few running around the Jy's. I'm not sure if the bell mounted to your rbv 2.8l will work. You can measure the diameter on that, then google the input bearing retainer diameter and see if it will fit. I'm sure you can also bring it to a machine shop to have it opened up so you can use your bellhousing. Do a post search on here, I remember a member doing a T5 swap in a ranger 4.0 before...


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Psychopete

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I was told when doing a similar conversion that it was Mustang 2.8L T-4 bell housing. Then you'd either need to run a cable clutch or adapt the hydraulics like the v8 people are doing. Definitely going to have to take some time researching input shaft length and other factors. 2wd only unless you can find an adapter. Later model 4.0L Mustang t-5 might be something to look at also, I think that would be a slam dunk, but a little more money up front for less pain.
 

AllanD

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Are you saying that instead of dealing with the troublesome Toyo Kogyo in my '84 I can replace it with a transmission from a Mustang??THAT WOULD BE AWESOME !!

i'm running the 2.8 ......so the bolt pattern on the bell housing matches mustang T5??

What years/engine do I look for??
The conversion necissary to swap a T5 into your 1984 ranger would require parts that are now incredibly Rare and the conversion is more invasive than what would be necissary to swap in a 1988-up Mazda M5OD-R1 trans.

Three things break manual transmissions:
1)Torque
2)Lack of maintainance
3)Old age.

with a 2.3, 2.8, 2.9 3.0 there is no torque so failures are typically a COMBINATION of "Lack of Maintainance" and "Old Age"

People whining that a transmission failing when it has 175,000 miles on it AND they ran it out of oil... it well... it makes my bitch slapper itch.

4.0's actually have torque, which 4.0? Yes.

but most of those transmission failures are still old age and lack of maintainance.

And don't be blaming the three rubber plugs, the worst they do is "weep" because they are designed to allow the tranmission to "Vent"


Leaving OUT and it still takes 6-9 months to make the trans
blow it's oil supply overboard....

You chould be changing your engine oil atleast every 90 days

You should be checking ALL fluid levels (including the trans)
every time you change the oil.

If you do you should NEVER lose all the oil in the trans.

If you are NOT checking your trans oil that often you have only
yourself to blame.

IF you have actually BROKEN your transmission, Like I have you need to be intelligent about what failure actually occours.

On my last trans I actually snapped off the output shaft!

But that was the result of another failure... but to understand the failure I experienced you have to understand how the shifting is actually accomplished
inside the 1354 mannual T-case... you move the T-case shifter lever and it moves a cam which presses on a spring... the spring actually presses the shift fork, there is another spring that pushes it out of 4x4 when you move the shifter back to 2Hi. in my 1354 that secong "kick out" spring broke.

So I was driving on PAVEMENT with lockers and weight in the truck and the driveline shock from the inevetible driveshaft windup actually fatigued the output shaft of the trans until it snapped off.

There was nothing particularly "sudden" about the shaft breaking as even after it snapped the truck was driveable, even though I was not completely aware
that the shaft had snapped because the broken piece was "Captive" in the T-case input... when the truck stopped moving (with a loud BANG!)
under it's own power was when the broken pieces of th1 trans output shaft
generated sufficient "Camming force" to break the T-case front bearing retainer...

When I started the teardown I thought the T-case had failed, I was half right.

Simply knowing something has failed is something any idiot can do

Knowing WHY something failed without making ASSumptions is considerably more difficult.

I find that people have a tendency to think because something has failed that they need something "better" when the something "Better" may actually be worse!

The comment that I'll make about the T5 is that many of the internal pieces
of that enormously overrated trans are actually made by the "powdered metal sintering" process, in essence they are CAST!

Here's a funny thing about the T5 trans, you'd think that because it is a "v8 transmission" that it would be almost indestructable behind a 4cylinder engine.

But the fact it isn't, they have MORE failures behind 4cylinder engines
because 4cylinder power delivery is a series of 110 degree "pulses" of power
in each 720degrees of rotation, so the transmission receives the power as a series of "hammer blows", a V8 engine with overlapping power pulses doesn't do this to a transmission, even at double the torque the smoother power delivery doesn't tend to break things as badly.

and as much as people whine about the M5OD-R1 using ATF for lubricant...

Care to guess what fluid is specified for the T5?

That's right, it's Mercon!

The T-5 is NOT a cure all for transmission woes.

But you'll likely never hear someone who has gone to the monumental effort to install one in a Ranger tell you they are JUNK, but they are.

Don't get me wrong, but they shift "nicer" than an M5OD-R1, but there
is a cheaper way to get a transmission that shifts "nice", spend the
money on a Hurst shifter for the Mazda trans, I believe a Mazda with a Hurst shifter actually shifts BETTER than a T-5 does... unless you add an aftermarket shifter to it too....

THE thing about the Mazda is that they are DESIGNED to fit a Ranger with factory parts, so nothing "custom" is required.

I believe in following the path of least resistance

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