TPS on 89 BRII & Fuel Line 90 BRII

[PonyUp]

Does the replacement of a TPS on a 1989 BRII 2,9 need a "relearn" process? I had a transmission rebuild done and it has issues going into 3rd gear? When I have to slow down on a hill/curve down to 35-40 and then try to accelerate back up while going up a gentle hill, it "lunges" several times until I just let it go back to down 35 and wait to accelerate again after I get to top of hill. Tranny guy said it wasn't the tranny and to try replacing the TPS. It seems to do it worse in warmer weather and very rare to happen on straight level roads. I also have a issue with the quick connect on the return fuel line on a 1990 BRII 2.9. It is leaking fuel there. Is there a O ring where it slips onto the fuel pressure regulator? The fuel line is a "braided metal"? I can't find any replacement for it. Thanks for any help, guidance.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Shouldn’t be a learning curve to the TPS. Not sure offhand what to suggest for that all.

The fuel line, the “garter spring” connections need a tool to release them (if they aren’t rusted to junk). There are two O-rings on it, they need to be fuel resistant. You pretty much have three choices if you replace the line itself. Junkyard. Nylon replacement line and ends. Or -AN braided line and ends. AN is the most expensive option if you go with PTFE line, but not really much more than Nylon. You can use rubber “EFI” line and hose clamps, but I don’t particularly like that option, especially because ends are still a problem. That said, years ago I cut the factory line off some factory ends and used EFI clamps and line and it worked.

My 00 green Ranger, the factory line, well, I couldn’t get the connection at the fuel rail apart. I considered my options and finally settled on AN -6 PTFE line (3/8”), got a fuel rail end and a fuel filter end and done. I got the black nylon covered but it’s really a nylon braid over a stainless braid over the PTFE core. Really kinda neat system, I can leave the fuel rail connector in the rail and pull the line off if needed.

 

[PonyUp]

Shouldn’t be a learning curve to the TPS. Not sure offhand what to suggest for that all.

The fuel line, the “garter spring” connections need a tool to release them (if they aren’t rusted to junk). There are two O-rings on it, they need to be fuel resistant. You pretty much have three choices if you replace the line itself. Junkyard. Nylon replacement line and ends. Or -AN braided line and ends. AN is the most expensive option if you go with PTFE line, but not really much more than Nylon. You can use rubber “EFI” line and hose clamps, but I don’t particularly like that option, especially because ends are still a problem. That said, years ago I cut the factory line off some factory ends and used EFI clamps and line and it worked.

My 00 green Ranger, the factory line, well, I couldn’t get the connection at the fuel rail apart. I considered my options and finally settled on AN -6 PTFE line (3/8”), got a fuel rail end and a fuel filter end and done. I got the black nylon covered but it’s really a nylon braid over a stainless braid over the PTFE core. Really kinda neat system, I can leave the fuel rail connector in the rail and pull the line off if needed.

Thanks. The 1990 has black plastic quick connects and there are 2 tiny spaces on both sides where you can insert "fish hook" shaped copper wire to put in spaces, push down and release. It is different than the connections on the "89". I am thinking that plastic connection may be bad or the O rings. Thanks for the info. Will try to get replacement O rings if that is the issue and not a cracked plastic connector.

I replaced the TPS on the 89 and it seems like I have a hesitation when I accelerate from a stop and RPMs are a lot lower when it shifts gears. Will drive the hills today and see if I still have the 38-45 shift issues. Thanks again.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Thanks. The 1990 has black plastic quick connects and there are 2 tiny spaces on both sides where you can insert "fish hook" shaped copper wire to put in spaces, push down and release. It is different than the connections on the "89". I am thinking that plastic connection may be bad or the O rings. Thanks for the info. Will try to get replacement O rings if that is the issue and not a cracked plastic connector.

I replaced the TPS on the 89 and it seems like I have a hesitation when I accelerate from a stop and RPMs are a lot lower when it shifts gears. Will drive the hills today and see if I still have the 38-45 shift issues. Thanks again.

You’re talking at the filter then? Sorry, I was assuming you were talking about the fuel rail connector. Yeah, fuel filter connections varied. There are still o-rings in there though. I also had one that the replaceable plastic clip wasn’t fitting right and causing a leak

 

[PonyUp]

You’re talking at the filter then? Sorry, I was assuming you were talking about the fuel rail connector. Yeah, fuel filter connections varied. There are still o-rings in there though. I also had one that the replaceable plastic clip wasn’t fitting right and causing a leak

No, I was talking about the fuel line which connects to the fuel pressure regulator. I got the fuel filter deal. That is pretty easy to replace. I am having issues with the line which attaches to the regulator, it is leaking at the quick connect. It is a plastic connector. That quick connect is a part of the line which is not black plastic. It is a braided material. I bought some after market quick connects made for plastic lines so will see if any of those O rings in the new ones will work on my quick connector. Safe to assume it could be the O rings gone bad? Tried to push it on regulator further but it didn't budge. I had a rebuilt engine put in about 5,000 miles ago and smelled gas. Hence the discovery of the leak.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

No, I was talking about the fuel line which connects to the fuel pressure regulator. I got the fuel filter deal. That is pretty easy to replace. I am having issues with the line which attaches to the regulator, it is leaking at the quick connect. It is a plastic connector. That quick connect is a part of the line which is not black plastic. It is a braided material. I bought some after market quick connects made for plastic lines so will see if any of those O rings in the new ones will work on my quick connector. Safe to assume it could be the O rings gone bad? Tried to push it on regulator further but it didn't budge. I had a rebuilt engine put in about 5,000 miles ago and smelled gas. Hence the discovery of the leak.

I don’t think I’ve ever seen a plastic connector at the fuel regulator other than the plastic vacuum line and if gas is comes out of the vacuum line, then the regulator is bad. IIRC, the fuel line is nylon or nylon with braided stainless and uses a “garter spring“ loaded connector to attach to the nylon/braided stainless line that goes over to a threaded connection at the regulator on the rail which has a sort of JIC/AN sort of looking seal, no O-rings. So I’m a little confused as to what exactly you’re dealing with. Any chance you can post a picture?

 

[PonyUp]

I don’t think I’ve ever seen a plastic connector at the fuel regulator other than the plastic vacuum line and if gas is comes out of the vacuum line, then the regulator is bad. IIRC, the fuel line is nylon or nylon with braided stainless and uses a “garter spring“ loaded connector to attach to the nylon/braided stainless line that goes over to a threaded connection at the regulator on the rail which has a sort of JIC/AN sort of looking seal, no O-rings. So I’m a little confused as to what exactly you’re dealing with. Any chance you can post a picture?

Thank You so much for your help. I was mistaken. It is the supply line quick connector. It is indeed plastic where it attaches to the braided line. Got it off of old regulator and will replace regulator but it was also leaking at the connector. No way to get the connect top off to see if there is any O rings in there. The one in this pic is the same as mine. https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/need-help-with-fuel-pressure-regulator-return-line-removal.315630/

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Thank You so much for your help. I was mistaken. It is the supply line quick connector. It is indeed plastic where it attaches to the braided line. Got it off of old regulator and will replace regulator but it was also leaking at the connector. No way to get the connect top off to see if there is any O rings in there. The one in this pic is the same as mine. https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/need-help-with-fuel-pressure-regulator-return-line-removal.315630/

Well that’s different… I don’t think I’ve ever seen that style before….

 

[Cees Klumper]

You can test the TPS with a voltmeter - it is supposed to vary voltage depending on amount of throttle applied and it can be adjusted slightly. The values (between 1 to 5 volt from idle to full throttle? Not sure now) should be somewhere in the forums.
I also recommend you check whether the vacuum line to the trans is free, not leaking and hooked up to the correct vacuum port (after the throttle body, not before). A PO of my car had hooked mine up wrong and it caused harsh shifting.
Lastly, those quick connect fittings were long gone when I bought my Bronco II 3 years ago, and replaced with regular fuel hose and clamps. Works fine.

Good luck!

 

[PonyUp]

You can test the TPS with a voltmeter - it is supposed to vary voltage depending on amount of throttle applied and it can be adjusted slightly. The values (between 1 to 5 volt from idle to full throttle? Not sure now) should be somewhere in the forums.
I also recommend you check whether the vacuum line to the trans is free, not leaking and hooked up to the correct vacuum port (after the throttle body, not before). A PO of my car had hooked mine up wrong and it caused harsh shifting.
Lastly, those quick connect fittings were long gone when I bought my Bronco II 3 years ago, and replaced with regular fuel hose and clamps. Works fine.

Good luck!

Thanks! I know some fool had messed with the screw at the throttle when he put the wrong alternator in the 89 right before tranny rebuild. After rebuild, It shifted fine except between 35-45 on a slow down and then attempts to accelerate back to 50. Now to find out what the proper ajustment setting/procedure is before I head back tranny guy. I got quick connect off the 90 and if there are any Orings down in there, you can't see or get to them. Just snapped it back onto a new pressure regulator and no apparent leak anywhere now. Will test drive tomorrow on the 90. Will do a search on the TPS values. Thanks again.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

One other thing to check with the trans shifting is the wiring harness that runs down to the transmission, I had one back in college that the harness came loose and up against the exhaust, which melted the wires. Had to spice it all back together

 

[PonyUp]

One other thing to check with the trans shifting is the wiring harness that runs down to the transmission, I had one back in college that the harness came loose and up against the exhaust, which melted the wires. Had to spice it all back together

Thanks for sharing. Tranny guy is cool and only works on high end vehicle trannys. I am going to take the info shared here to him and have him check everything out while on lift. Want to do the TPS adjustment first since he did say to try that.