Toyota 8 hybrids... school me.

[Chance]

Alright, so I was talking to one of my coworkers today (a toyota/zuki guy) and mention something about a dana60/toyota 8 hybrid being virtually indestructible. He said that you could take the diff pumpkin out of a dana 60 (they're 30 spline right?) and replace the 3rd member of the toy8 with the 60 center, weld er up and runn'er.

So, this got me thinkin. Front 60's are expensive as hell... but rear 60's are cheap... and so are toy axles... So what if I got a toy front axle, cut the 3rd member/centersection out, swapped the passenger and driver side axle tubes/shafts, and then swapped the toy knuckles back to the correct sides? I know the toy axle is not as wide as preferred, but I can deal with that. But, would I end up with a driver side drop 60 essentially? Low pinion though correct?

Then another coworker walked in... he recently totaled his toyota. So I asked him how much he wanted for the axles out of it. (they're in good shape, he's just an idiot) and he said "50 bucks apiece" Really? Okay next pay check I'll take the front one off your hands.

So I googled it (a pain in the ass to do on the ps3... and typing takes forever) and couldn't come up with anything. I found toy8's running 60 knuckles, and found d44/toy8 hybrids... on these they said they worked, but not well even though they are both 30 spline, one is metric and the other standard splined.

I do have a high pinion d44 at my disposal, as well as all the tools that I should need to do the job (weld, set caster, etc.) but I'm looking for some more technical info... is any hybrid worth it? I want strong, cheap, and high ground clearance (impossible I know)

Just exploring options. Thanks guys

 

[Chance]

also considering hacking the toy 8 up and making it driverside drop.

and no i wouldn't just fip the axle over

 

[cur10u5g30rg3]

Toyota outers are the weak link on a toyota axle. They use a joint called a birfield. When turning and powering under a load they ussually end up snaping. There are companies out there that make after market joints. These joints provide much stronger setup and will hold up very well, but they are expensive. One examle is longfield joints. I know a popular center section to use is a Ford 9" with toyota outers. Quite a few company make this setup and you can get a high pinion out of the setup. I think the problem with using a dana 60 rear is the rotation has to be correct. You will be driving on you coast side of your ring and pinoin.

 

[Chance]

Toyota outers are the weak link on a toyota axle. They use a joint called a birfield. When turning and powering under a load they ussually end up snaping. There are companies out there that make after market joints. These joints provide much stronger setup and will hold up very well, but they are expensive. One examle is longfield joints. I know a popular center section to use is a Ford 9" with toyota outers. Quite a few company make this setup and you can get a high pinion out of the setup. I think the problem with using a dana 60 rear is the rotation has to be correct. You will be driving on you coast side of your ring and pinoin.

i wish i had the money to build a high 9.

i was wondering about the rotation on the 60 rear... wouldn't be quite optimal...

so that's where i was thinking the 44 hybrid, but wouldn't be stronger than the 8 would it?

 

[4x4junkie]

I've only heard of this the other way 'round also. I think your coworker might be a bit confused on which way it's done.

Agreed, Toyota outers aren't really anything to write home about, it's right in the same ballpark as D44 stuff.

 

[Chance]

I've only heard of this the other way 'round also. I think your coworker might be a bit confused on which way it's done.

Agreed, Toyota outers aren't really anything to write home about, it's right in the same ballpark as D44 stuff.

that's what i was thinkin. i'll still buy it and just sell it for some extra cash

 

[Chance]

also considering hacking the toy 8 up and making it driverside drop.

Alright gonna bump this because I am actually getting the axle, springs, and shackles for even cheaper now...

I've been searching, and haven't found anything... anyone seen or done a re-tube on a toy to make it driverside drop?

At this point I'm thinking it's impractical and not very doable...

I might try it anyway when I get it... I dunno.

 

[dangerranger83]

You can do a passenger side drop but that might be more work then needed but different then the rest. I'm told there are rangers running around with passenger drop diffs. Whatever your choice I hope to see the build if you do decide to do it.

 

[Toreadorranger]

Your better off making a D60/D44 hybrid. Use the HP D44 center section and buy a chevy D60 front, (should be able to get one for 400 or so), swap the D60 outers onto the D44.

 

[Chance]

Your better off making a D60/D44 hybrid. Use the HP D44 center section and buy a chevy D60 front, (should be able to get one for 400 or so), swap the D60 outers onto the D44.

Good idea... I'd have to use the chevy stub shafts correct?

How much advantage would I get over the 8lug 44 outers?

The main reason why I want another axle aside from my 44hd is I was kinda wanting to run coil springs. I didn't want to mess with the spring perch width as the driverside spring perch is cast into the pumpkin... nor did I want to run into my steering binding up on the springs... (highsteer I know... Guess I should look at the chevy knuckles again)

I guess I'll browse your thread to see how you did it again (the spring perches).

I kinda wanted to get a half ton 44 since they already had coil pads on them and to me it's easier to space out the coil buckets that leaves...

But I'll do some more reading.

Idk if I can afford a chev 60 (broke college student) but I stand to make $170sh profit off the yoter axle if/when I sell it (assuming I don't put it in a nissan or Isuzu first)