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Tow dolly transport


lil_Blue_Ford

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That never once crossed my mind! Even tho I saw a man in middle of a busy intersection working under his vehicle. Stopped ask asked if I could be any help, and he explained he was setting it uo to drive home with his front drive axle.

At least once, maybe twice I have been stranded some way and it did not occur to me to do that! That's ADHD in bold, capital letters!
Are you sure that wasn’t me you saw? :icon_rofl:

Not too long ago I snapped the U-joint cross in my F-150. Right in a busy intersection, nearing rush hour, in the city. I had debating bringing an impact but was trying to keep what I took to a minimum. My 12 point wrench became a horseshoe when I tried to get the driveshaft bolts out. Since the joint that didn’t shatter was one I had replaced, I popped the u-joint clips out and knocked the joint out. Right in the middle of the street with a loaded trailer. Cussing like a sailor the whole time. Locked the hubs in and limped 30 miles home on the front.

The problem with driving on the front axle is that the rear driveshaft must be completely removed. If it’s still connected to either the axle or the T-case, it will still spin. If you’re loading the front on a tow dolly, then load it up, pop the driveshaft off the rear axle and tie it up out of the way. That way the rear axle spins, but since the driveshaft isn’t connected, nothing else spins. If you would say, load it on a car dolly and disconnect the driveshaft from the transfer case and tie it up, the rear axle is going to try to spin the driveshaft and damage things. I made that mistake once and let me tell you, that can cause a LOT of damage in a hurry. Thankfully it was a truck that was going to become a trailer project so it wasn’t the end of the world, but it even put dents in the frame rails on a box truck. So you just have to be aware of what is going to spin and what isn’t.
 


Josh B

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I try to treat anyone as if they are my neighbor, and you really can't never tell.

There was a time when I got around about as much as anybody, and I had a cousin who did too.
There was more than just a handful who met us both at different times and different places
 

4x4prepper

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> Problem is that when I enter that info and the Bronco as the trailered vehicle their calculator won't allow me to go further in the rental.

I towed a B2 that I bought, on a U-Haul trailer from SC to Atlanta. The current one I am driving I towed on a U-Haul trailer back to my house inside GA about 70 miles. That combination (Uhaul trailer + B2) is WAY too much for any Explorer, imho.


"Empty weight: 2,210 lbs"

plus 3700# (I don't think any 4x4 B2 I had was even close to 3500# on the scales) = 5,910. I know from seeing my 4x4 E-250 sit down in the back that the tongue weight was probably at least 700#.

If it was me, I would buy a used chintzy SMALL car trailer that weighed 1200# and was low to the ground and tow with that if I was towing with a 2011 Explorer. Lose 1,000# in trailer weight and seriously lower the center of gravity while you are towing the shed on 4 wheels down the highway.

You will have to bungee cord the steering wheel to both doors (left and right cord) if you want the steering wheel to return to center using a tow bar. Those Harbor Fright tow bars work okay and that might be the best way to go, just do not even think about backing up or making tight turns.

z-bronco2_20201004_172936.jpg


Though if I had a choice, I would 100% go with a tow dolly with surge brakes using the 2011 Explorer, as I think that is the best compromise, stability wise and being able to control sway and braking.
 

Josh B

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> Problem is that when I enter that info and the Bronco as the trailered vehicle their calculator won't allow me to go further in the rental.

It does that every time you enter an incorrect answer, or an unacceptable answer
 

Josh B

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The "reply" feature is goofing up some how
 

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