Too impulsive buying my donor.. drivetrain Q's

[oddball101]

I was impatient, didn't think to verify if this '00 "2wd" 5.0 Mountaineer was infact 2wd or AWD. Now I am paying the price, it is AWD.

I wanted 2wd to keep it simple at first since that is how my '01 2wd 3.0 xcab Edge Ranger is set up, but now I have to rearrange my swap plan entirely based around the drivetrain which sucks. This leaves me in a bad place with questions now. Now Since I have all of this AWD / 4wd stuff staring me in the face, I am looking for options but have been getting mixed info as to what will work and what will not.

So here's my Goal:
I want to adapt the front AWD differential from the mountaineer to my ranger with manual locking hubs, while using the 4406 transfer case. I realize I'd be making driveshaft changes in lengths and that I'd have to weld on the third support in front for 4wd to my ranger, as well as get the sport gas tank.

And here are my Questions:
1. The driveshafts going from the 4406 to the AWD diff components won't match up in connectivity type will they?

2. I have seen adapters that can be purchased, but are there any stock manual locking hubs that can be used or swapped in with the AWD front diff for the Rangers or Explorers that will fit my application in my ranger?

A lot of stuff I have found and read refers to 2nd gen explorers but all of this is in reference to a swap into an 01 ranger with the torsion bar front end. So that being said, I do not understand how these different variables can come together in a straight forward fashion..

Really pissed at myself for just trusting the guy not checking this before signing the paperwork..


Thanks for reading

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

The AWD probably won't like lockout hubs at all, the live Explorer/later Ranger front setup will probably work better (like what the Explorer already has) With the hubs locked out it will just try to spin the front axleshafts and nothing will go to the rear axle at all. The front diff is the same as a 4x4 Rangers.

The driveshafts will bolt to the axles (they are now) and the front is probably close to the right length (depending on how you set the engine in) but the rear will likely need adjusted for length.

I would go ahead and keep the rear axle out of the Explorer and put it in too, that way the gearing matches for sure, you get a stronger axle and disc brakes.

 

[UrbanRedneckKid]

...the Awd case won't care about the lockouts, although it would creep in park with the hubs unlocked.

Check out the tech info @ www.explorerforum.com

Personally, in your situation, I'd just swap the tail shaft and housing on the trans and run it 2wd.

That t-case is probably shot anyway. There is an $800 part that is extremely hard to find, that commonly goes bad inside that case. It's the viscous coupling that drives the front shaft. It locks up and doesn't allow any slippage of the front axle, making it drive like its locked in 4hi on the pavement. Thus ruining the front shaft and differential.

 

[mercurymullet]

I think he was planning on getting rid of the awd for a 4wd transfer case. That would allow the lock outs.

If you plan was 2wd, I would change tail shafts. If you would like 4wd, SAS might be cheaper and easier. The explorer forum will give you a ton of info on the transfer swap.

 

[oddball101]

Thanks guys, I understand where you are coming from. Yes, my goal is to go 4wd since I have the majority of the components already. I have 373 gearing front and back so that will be nice for gas I suppose when rolling in 2wd (as little as that will help). I'm not a racer.. just a spirited driver. I really like the idea of manual hubs because when unlocked the cut down the powertrain resistance considerably which would also favor for gas a little.

One suggestion I have received (and will be following) is swapping over everything as it should be, just minus the front drive components until I get all the mess sorted out and have a clear picture of what my plan of attack should be. That means I'll still be running the TC, just minus the the driveshaft and rotating mass of the front live axle. The parking break I am no stranger to. I get confused if the 4406 is just the transfer case or a manual tranny in itslelf with an attached transfer case. I am thinking it is just a transfer case..

Anyone know if this combo will work? C4> 4406 TC> AWD front diff > Awd CV's> 92 explorer manual hubs( I think they'll fit my ranger)?

 

[Earl43P]

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31551

^Should find some helpful ideas in that thread, if you hadn't read it already.

Here too: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/727284/2003-ford-ranger-super-cab/


I think you found a terrific donor.
And I would "get over it", wanting locking hubs and keep the live axle, a good setup.
Use the Mounty's T-Bars. Clock an F150 Transfer case into it.

More work than I'll ever do, but good luck with it!

 

[oddball101]

Wow, thanks a lot for that bit of info man, good stuff. I will check out those links and reread if I have seen them already. I was so focused on originally going 2wd at first that I didn't really retain the "other" info I had come across. I imagine your suggestion about the Mounty's Tbars is because they have a higher "spring rate" perhaps?

I'd be interested to know the difference caused by the parasitic loss of the drag created going the Live axle route vs Manual hubs. Minimal at best I bet but even 3 or 4 mpg's would be good enough for me..

 

[mercurymullet]

I have a np203 transfer case in my 97 mounty. The 4406 is prolly the easiest swap, but not the only one. Keep in mind the 8.8 in the exploder is under sprung, not over sprung. Not a big deal, but not a direct bolt in.

Earl is right the lock outs won't give you 3-4 mpg. My v8 awd explorer (i have 2) gets about 1-2 less than my buddy's v8 ranger with lock outs. My built off road mountaineer is right in there as well. The mpg doesn't really change enough that it couldn't wait. IMO I'd rather just get it running. You wouldn't be the first guy with a 2wd that has a transfer case. LOL

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

92 explorer manual hubs( I think they'll fit my ranger)?

Those hubs will not work.

The Rangers switch front ends and IIRC their fuel economy did not.

You would probably gain more by putting a regular fullsize t-case (2hi, 4hi, 4lo) in it so you are not powering both ends fulltime.

The lockouts for that style of axle are kind of a rinky-dink bandaid for the even rinkier and dinkier vacuum hubs, the fulltime live is a much more durable setup.

 

[oddball101]

Thanks for the tips on the live axle setups. I was thinking about thison the way home. I think you guys are right, in that the live axle will be the best way to go all around. I can accept that, thanks again Earl for those links. As far as the 8.8 is concerned, I could go either way with it, still not sure. It can in be bolted in simply enough in its original SUA configuration just by using two of the same side shock mounts from the explorer. The stock ranger shocks then pull up and over to position with a little twist. Ran my last one like that and loved it. Lowered some 6 or so inches in the rear and I leveled it out with the belltech drop shackles. That was then though.

I already have spring perches and ubolts in the mail coming to me now for my new 8.8. They actually should've been here already but they'll be here soon enough I guess. I like the ride hieght of my ranger now so I'm prolly gonna keep around where she is stock(edge ride height is right around stock 4wd height). Might bring the rear down just a lil bit though. We'll see I suppose.

On my new 8.8 I see dark spots around the pumpkin seal that are moist (I said moist). I hope its not going bad or leaking.. any tips for that?

Also, looking more into the 4406 conversion, I read that it isn't entirely necessary to shift everything over towards the passenger side by 3/8's " (redrilling the stock motormount holes that much over after filling them in) I wouldn't think the clearances to be that much of a problem. The TC being within a half inch of the frame rail and the driveshhaft being that close to the gas tank.. who am I kidding, makes me uncomfortable just thinking about it... or does it?

 

[adsm08]

Why not just put it together as is but throw the front drive shaft in the scrap pile?

 

[oddball101]

That's actually exactly what I intend to do at this point. It'll give me time to work the kinks out. Really, I should be able to swap all of the power train components over (minus the front shaft of course) directly correct? I have the edge frame, all of the components right here from the donor, I suppose there really is nothing at all stopping me.

The engine was a bit neglected, occasional sputter, popping at the intake and backfires every now and again while accelerating. My thoughts are to correct the issues in place before swapping and then figuring them out. At least this way I'll have a solid base to start from. I'm hoping a tune up will clear up these issues.. seafoam, oil, plugs, wires,vacuum lines.. What all would be good for me to to do here?