To swap or go bigger?

[MT-Man]

I just bought a 1998 Super cab 4x4 step side Ranger with a seized engine. The rest of the truck is in great shape so being a former gen 1 ranger owner I hated to see it sent to the bone yard. I would like to get your opinion on the replacement of the 3.0 motor. Is the 3.0 a good motor or should I take this opportunity to upgrade to a larger engine keeping in mind I don’t want to have to upgrade the whole drive train so no monster truck for me! Thanks for any advice! Sorry if I’m not doing this right, first time.

 

[ericbphoto]

Depends what you want from it. The 3.0 is dependable. But it’s power and torque come on at higher rpm’s. So it’s not great for low, slow rock crawling or towing. If all you need is a dependable DD and maybe run some gravel forest service roads, the 3.0 is fine.

 

[rubydist]

It also depends where in MT you are located - the 3.0 is a slug at sea level, and it can barely get out of its own way at elevation, so if you are at a higher elevation you need more juice.

 

[19Walt93]

The easiest, quickest, cheapest engine to use would be another 3.0. I agree with the guys who said it's a good but doggy engine and I'd offset that somewhat with lower(higher numerical) gears and stay with stock diameter tires- taller tires will negate the advantage of the gear swap. Or just replace the engine and drive it if more power isn't important to you.
You get an attaboy for calling it a Super cab instead of an extended cab, extra cab or whatever but it's a flare side, not a step side. The old boxes with a step at the bottom edge of the box were step sides.

 

[MT-Man]

Thank you for your replies! I live in north west Montana up in the mountains about 35 miles to the closest town of any size. The trip to town is costly in my older F250 (1968) so I’m interested in the gas mileage but also need to be able to pull a small trailer or haul a load on occasion. I know nothing about the 3.0 or for that matter the 4.0 but was wondering if it would be worth it to bump up the size just for the torque? My Ranger is a standard with locking hubs which I think should handle a small amount of increase. I can find inexpensive used examples in older Explorers so I could get either one. Let me know what you think, your thoughts are appreciated!

 

[James Morse]

Having both these engines I can say that the 4.0L is quite different than the 3.0L. My take is the 3.0L has adequate pep for street driving and has no problem going up hills etc if not fully loaded. But as has been said at lower rpm not lots of power. It gets better mileage, such as it is, than the 4.0L, I think - haven't driven the 4.0L that much yet.

4.0L (comparably speaking) has massive torque which you notice right away even at low rpm, if you aren't on the gas it's already in 2nd or probably 3rd by like 30mph so that makes me wonder you might have to change your shift points if you have auto trans.

But if you're on the gas it will get you fast in not very long and will rev out properly before it shifts.
To me if I had to make the decision it would be a no-brainer I would go 4.0L. I don't see they are any harder to work on but here's the thing, I think the 4.0L changed in '98 and I think the older 4.0L is better but well may not fit your truck.

I can't speak to the later 4.0L, I know they spec more power than previous gen, but not a lot different.

Don't know if the smaller turbo engines would fit, don't know anything about them except I know a 2.0L can make 225HP stock because I had one (Saab). I guess now the newer trucks have the smaller engines but that's nothing new they were around 25 years ago. Probably nothing would fit.

There's also possibility of 5.0L, I know it would fit my 99 but wouldn't fit the 97 so not sure on your 98, probably would fit? Guys here will know. Except it would require beefing up trans and replacing axle... so... much more mods required, probably not an option you want.

Basically my 3.0L is just fine and not underpowered for regular driving, but when I get in the 4.0L the change makes me think "I'm driving the beast now". I think the power range is like 2400-3200 so you really feel the torque come on quickly. I have no true 4x4 experience yet but I went up a really steep forest road effortlessly in 4x4 it was like nothing you can feel reserve power there.
You wouldn't think, looking at the specs, there's that much difference in them but there is. Probably the torque/hp curves tell the story.

That's my 2 cents, others will know better about what fits and the tech details of it. I just can't see any reason to not go 4.0L unless there's some fitment problem.

 

[RonD]

Good info but....................

Because Rangers came with both 3.0l and 4.0l V6s doesn't mean you can just swap them around
You need to swap engine, transmission, computer and its wiring harness, if you change engine size/model
So same as swapping in a 302/5.0l V8, except you have a V8 Ranger when done, lol

In my opinion, best way forward would be to replace/rebuild the 3.0l OHV Vulcan engine
See how you like it
If you don't, sell the RUNNING Ranger, and buy a 4.0l Ranger

You can use a 1998-2008 3.0l engine from a Ranger or Mazda B3000
I would avoid 2004-2006 3.0ls because of exhaust valve issues

You should swap lower and upper intakes from the 1998 3.0l to the "new" engine, just simpler to match wiring connectors and vacuum routing

Things to do on "new" engine while its out
Replace rear main seal
Replace front timing cover gasket and front main seal
Oil pan gasket, judgment call
Valve cover gaskets
Intake gaskets
Thermostat and water pump

 

[James Morse]

Thanks Ron. Yeah that makes perfect sense just replace like with like is the simplest then you have a running truck to sell and put towards what you really want.
None of the stuff you mention seems very expensive for the parts and probably not that hard to do especially with engine out of truck.

What is symptom of oil pan gasket needs replace? Excessive oil drip? (I think if you get one drip when you park and that's all I don't worry about it?)

 

[RonD]

You should see oil residue on side of oil pan if its leaking any where

Yes, one drip is usually not an issue, but if its around long enough IT WILL get Friends, lol

 

[James Morse]

Ah. Thanks.

 

[MT-Man]

Thanks for all the advice! I’ll definitely start looking for a replacement 3.0
You said the ones to look for are in the 1998 through 2008 B3000 and old Rangers, no other models will work like Explorers or Ford cars?
Thanks

 

[RonD]

The car 3.0l OHV should have head gaskets changed because they were transverse mounted(sideways) so had different coolant flow thru the heads
3.0l OHV wasn't use in Explorers, was used in Aerostar vans for a few years

But you would be better off to find a 2007/8 3.0l with lower miles so less wear and tear

But you can use any year 1991 thru 2008 as a Long block, there are differences over the years for internal parts, so put a sticker in engine bay denoting the year of the "new" 3.0l just for future reference
Manual or auto doesn't matter
2WD or 4x4 doesn't matter
Gas only or flex fuel doesn't matter(as long as you swap over your intakes with fuel injectors and fuel rail)

Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market

That's a good place to look for local used parts, use your zipcode

Changes to 3.0l OHV over the years seen here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/ford-3-0l-build/
Obviously all engines(parts) tend to get better over time as failures are seen and changes are made to avoid that failure
So later model year engine would better over all, but still a roll of the dice with any used parts

 

[MT-Man]

Outstanding! Thank you for sharing!