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To rebuild or not to rebuild

RobbieD

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Congratulations on getting the engine running.

Trying to sort out your description of the driving issue.

If it's the clutch, the engine will rev higher but the truck's "pull" will noticeably decrease. In this case the engine should seem like it's running normally, just no "pull".

OR

You could have something going on with the engine, like fuel starvation. The "2nd and 3rd gears sputter" part is what's throwing me; that sounds more like an engine issue rather than a transmission issue.
 


RonD

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Does it work in 4th?
Yes hard to get going but does it move?

4th gear on a manual 4 or 5 speed is a Direct Drive, "transmission" is not actually used, the input shaft is connected "directly" to output shaft, no "gears" are used

If so then the input shaft gear is bad, trans needs to be rebuilt
 

Mrich1510

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So I just filled up the tank and drove it around. Once I get to about 2000 RPMS, The engine starts sputtering and completely loses power to matter the gear I’m in (1st, 2nd, and 3rd). So I’m thinking it could be that it’s running too lean? Or maybe too rich? I’m not sure
 

RonD

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Could be spark timing or fuel delivery

You need a timing light to fine tune and check timing

Do this spark timing FIRST, as fuel delivery is harder to test on a carb

If your distributor has vacuum advance then unplug that hose from distributor and plug the hose's end with a screw/bolt
If its a TFI spark system(NO vacuum advance) then find the SPOUT Connector and unplug it
Warm up engine first, just let it idle for 3 or 4 minutes

Use timing light to get spark at 10deg BTDC by turning distributor
(You may need to use sand paper or Emory cloth on timing plate and crank balancer to clean up the marks
I also put some white or yellow paint on a cloth and wipe it across the marks, makes them easier to see

After timing, and distributor is tight
Plug back in vacuum advance hose or SPOUT connector and restart engine
Should see about 20deg BTDC now, at idle, that is correct, and it means vacuum advance or SPOUT is working

Go for another drive



Fuel delivery issues can be:
clogged fuel filter in the tank or in line filter
failing fuel pump
misadjusted float in carb or bad float valve

If you don't have SMOKE coming out exhaust pipe then its not running Rich
If you don't hear pinging/knocking then its not running Lean
 
Last edited:

BrownRangers

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Probably needs a carb rebuild, accelerator pump, power valve even just some crap in the jets could cause hesitation. When I first bought mine someone used Teflon tape and every once in a while there was some clogging the jets and there was even bits of it in the fuel bowl. Simple carb rebuild made the truck run way better with no hesitation at different throttle inputs.
 

4x4prepper

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> I know this isn’t the right thread but 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears sputter almost like it’s not “grabbing”? I tried to pull onto a busy road and lost all power to the transmission while accelerating. New clutch or?…

When you time the engine and set up the dist on #1, make sure it is on the COMPRESSION stroke, if you are 180 degrees off, you will have sputtering and loss of power. I did this once backwards on a 2.9L that had nuked the TFI module when I had to remove the distributor, in a parking lot, to replace it (funky anti-temper things?).
 

Lefty

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Some random advice: I had a 2.8 rebuilt some years ago. Cracked heads are a common problem with them. Also a Ford mechanic put 2 gaskets on the valve covers. It ran quieter after that. A 2 barrel Holley should fit that manifold.
 

BrownRangers

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Have you rebuilt the carb and replaced the fuel filter yet?

I would start with a simple carb rebuild. Sounds just like many a vehicles I have brought back to life before doing a carb rebuild. It might idle and run up to a certain load or RPM. When more fuel is needed, it sputters and it cannot deliver the needed fuel amount for the load/volume of air being delivered to the engine. No matter how many electrical gremlins you try to fix or people say to check, there is a limit to a clogged fuel system. Think about how thick and slugged up the oil was. Fuel can do the same thing.
 

Eddo Rogue

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UPDATE:

So I replaced The spark plugs and plug wires. Tightened the valve covers to spec, and just completed a compression test, all passed. So I have spark, compression, and fuel. With it being a carbureted engine I presume I’m getting air to the engine. Still nothing…. I’m at a loss at this point…
You probably need to rebuild your carb. Gas goes bad, jets get clogged, float bowls stick. I work on bikes and any time they wont start after sitting awhile its always the carb. I can usually bring em back to life with a cleanup, although sometimes the jets and rubber cant be saved, and cant be saved. Maybe try a carb cleanout/ rebuild kit.
 

Mrich1510

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So, just got into a motorcycle accident so I now have a lot of time to work on the truck… going back to timing, when I remove the vacuum adv line from the distributor and check the timing, what should the timing read? It’s currently set at 20. Is that right? Should it be lower?
 

RonD

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Hope you are OK

Warmed up engine
10deg BTDC is spec
Some think 12deg BTDC works better

Then hook up vacuum advance again and see what its at

Some Ford engines had a Line AND an "eye" on the front cover timing tab
Use the line not the "eye", the eye was for Ford tool
 

4x4prepper

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Make sure you plug the vacuum line you remove while testing.
 

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