I don't think there's any good way to test a hall effect sensor other than making sure it has consistent power and ground and signal wire to the DIS module... hall effect sensors are reliable but when they go out they usually just go out... mine when the sensor went out it would get hot then stall, cool off and run again but that's not always how it works...
I know they're expensive, but changing them isn't too bad, take the belt off, take the crank pulley off (just the 4 bolts up front, not the big center one) and the sensor is right there, has 3 or 4 wires, I think the replacements have the same color wires and just a short pigtail, splice the wires in a sturdy manner (heat shrink butt connectors or solder and heat shrink) and that's it for that part, if you rotate the crank to where the sensor slides out, stick the new one in the bracket then rotate the engine to where it's in the vanes half way so you can see to kinda center it in there and you should be good to go.
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