• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Timing Cover Coolant Leak


8thTon

Well-Known Member
--- Banned ---
Joined
Jan 13, 2019
Messages
1,378
Reaction score
806
Points
113
Location
Pennsylvania
Vehicle Year
2004
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Engine Size
3.0
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
My credo
My world is filled with stuff that needs to be fixed
Well the slow seep has finally become a more significant leak, so I guess it's time. Can someone school me about how to handle the oil pan gasket? Should I plan on cutting out the old front section and splicing in a new piece, or does it depend on how much it gets disturbed when I pull the timing cover out?
 


Aaron Powell

Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2020
Messages
52
Reaction score
6
Points
8
Location
Arizona
Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Mazda B3000
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
The first time I removed my front timing cover, I was very delicate and used my finger to separate the gasket from the pan/cover them inspected for damage. When I reinstalled it, I used RTV between the pan and gasket and cover and gasket. It didn't leak. Worked great. Next time I removed it though after having all that RTV on it, I started to tear the gasket which caused me to yell really loud curse words and rip it off. I then proceeded to change the pan gasket. Finesse is key.
 

8thTon

Well-Known Member
--- Banned ---
Joined
Jan 13, 2019
Messages
1,378
Reaction score
806
Points
113
Location
Pennsylvania
Vehicle Year
2004
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Engine Size
3.0
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
My credo
My world is filled with stuff that needs to be fixed
Another question I had is if Ford used any of their lovely torque-to-yield bolts on pulleys and such? Just want to know what hardware I might need for the job.

I'm also trying to decide if I should replace the timing chain set - are the factory originals all metal or did they do that phenolic covered junk they used to use on small blocks?
 

Aaron Powell

Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2020
Messages
52
Reaction score
6
Points
8
Location
Arizona
Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Mazda B3000
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Another question I had is if Ford used any of their lovely torque-to-yield bolts on pulleys and such? Just want to know what hardware I might need for the job.

I'm also trying to decide if I should replace the timing chain set - are the factory originals all metal or did they do that phenolic covered junk they used to use on small blocks?
If you're pulling the front cover, it would be stupid in my opinion to not change the chain and gears. The gears on my 94 3oh are metal.

To my knowledge, none of the cover bolts or pulley bolts are torque to yield. I reused all of mine with no issues.
 

8thTon

Well-Known Member
--- Banned ---
Joined
Jan 13, 2019
Messages
1,378
Reaction score
806
Points
113
Location
Pennsylvania
Vehicle Year
2004
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Engine Size
3.0
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
My credo
My world is filled with stuff that needs to be fixed
This job has been going slow because I just don't have enough time to devote to it - I had to deal with a major project this summer replacing a water line, and that got me behind on firewood, work is so damn busy - and now it's dark all the time. And cold. You know the drill.

The damned harmonic balancer fought me all the way, including the center bolt (I think my impact driver is crapping out). So I improvised a tool:
IMG_6267-1200.jpg


The timing cover is now off and the oil pan gasket looks OK - I'll have to get sealant between it and the pan since it is now loose there, but undamaged. However, I found the timing chain is indeed stretched, so I ordered a timing set.

The last issue to deal with is getting the fan support off the old water pump - I had to remove the pump with the fan still attached. That's a damned big threaded fitting (rusted no doubt), with no good way to hold the pump shaft from pinning but to use a pipe wrench on the old fan pulley flange - but that's awkward to do while the water pump unsupported. I may screw the pump onto a post in my barn with some deck screws.
 

Aaron Powell

Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2020
Messages
52
Reaction score
6
Points
8
Location
Arizona
Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Mazda B3000
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
View attachment 52629
The last issue to deal with is getting the fan support off the old water pump - I had to remove the pump with the fan still attached. That's a damned big threaded fitting (rusted no doubt), with no good way to hold the pump shaft from pinning but to use a pipe wrench on the old fan pulley flange - but that's awkward to do while the water pump unsupported. I may screw the pump onto a post in my barn with some deck screws.
I have a fan clutch removal kit that universal for most fan clutch nuts. The wrench slips in and has a groove that a rod slides into and the rod attaches to an air hammer. Never failed me. I believe you can rent it at most Auto parts stores. Leave the belt on though, it helps to hold the water pump pulley in place.
 

cbxer55

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2009
Messages
1,863
Reaction score
763
Points
113
Location
Midwest City, Oklahoma
Vehicle Year
1998
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
3.0
Transmission
Automatic
I don't know how old your fan is, the one on my L is going on 17. I took it off last year to try an electric fan. All I did was put a big crescent wrench on that large nut and whack it a few times in the proper direction with a big heavy rubber mallet, and it came loose fairly quickly. The sparky fan caught fire the first time it came on, and the controller smoked itself t oblivion. So back on went the clutch fan. Took it off again earlier this year to work on the lower pulley. Came off even easier than the first time. Now, just for the heck of it, I put a wrench on it every now-and-then, and whack it, just to keep it loose.

Oh, I see, 2004. Same year as my L.

My 98 3.0 Ranger has a very small drip at the rear passenger side, cause by the damn gasket being pushed out a little at the corner. Last oil change, I replaced one quart of oil with some Lucas Engine Oil Stop Leak. It worked, changed the leak from a softball size spot to a half dollar, or less. If I park it facing downhill, it doesn't leak at all. Doesn't leak when running. I've started keeping the oil level a half quart low, and it practically stops the leak all together.
 

8thTon

Well-Known Member
--- Banned ---
Joined
Jan 13, 2019
Messages
1,378
Reaction score
806
Points
113
Location
Pennsylvania
Vehicle Year
2004
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Engine Size
3.0
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
My credo
My world is filled with stuff that needs to be fixed
Well I made progress - it takes so much time to clean up parts and hardware. And did you know that the fan clutch support is left hand threaded?? :unsure: Yes, I'm that dumb sometimes! Still, the timing cover, water pump and harmonic balancer are back on with all bolts torqued. The sealant can set up while it's fairly warm. I put a new timing st on but in the end I don't think the new one has any less slack than the old, so that was probably a waste.

Now it's just a ton of fussy brackets and hoses and crap, and trying to get the air out of the cooling system. I thought I had the block cleaned up pretty well until I looked at this picture, and then I realized I had more junk to get off:
IMG_6301-1200.jpg


IMG_6303-1200.jpg
 

Rearanger

Active Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2008
Messages
1,429
Reaction score
23
Points
38
Location
Southeast USA
Vehicle Year
2003
Make / Model
Ford
Transmission
Manual
Well I made progress - it takes so much time to clean up parts and hardware.
View attachment 53153
I may have had the same weep/leak as yours. Is it time consuming as you said and at the time of discovery I decided to use "Bars Leaks" stop leak. That has worked and I'll get to fixing the leak in the spring. From the picture above can you pin point where the leak was coming from. It may help me when I fix mine. It appeared to be coming from a bolt hole in the upper left.

Thanks
 

8thTon

Well-Known Member
--- Banned ---
Joined
Jan 13, 2019
Messages
1,378
Reaction score
806
Points
113
Location
Pennsylvania
Vehicle Year
2004
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Engine Size
3.0
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
My credo
My world is filled with stuff that needs to be fixed
I may have had the same weep/leak as yours. Is it time consuming as you said and at the time of discovery I decided to use "Bars Leaks" stop leak. That has worked and I'll get to fixing the leak in the spring. From the picture above can you pin point where the leak was coming from. It may help me when I fix mine. It appeared to be coming from a bolt hole in the upper left.

Thanks
I wish I had taken a picture of the back of the timing cover. What happens is that eventually the factory gasket leaks a little around the large outlets in the front of the block (arrows). It does not appear they used a sealant with the gasket, or if they did it was not an RTV. Once the antifreeze gets behind the aluminum timing cover it starts to corrode the material and the gap grows over time. Mine was certainly re-usable, but it definitely needed RTV - of course I don't know if it seals as I have not got it back together yet.

Note also that a lot of the bolts go through into coolant passages (possibly some into oil passages??) and are coated with sealant at the factory. I used Permatex Ultra and coated the bolts first. Whatever the factory used seems more like that stuff they put on shaft seals where you press them in, not quite as pliable as RTV.

Years ago I was into full sized Jeeps with AMC V8s, which was when they had eliminated a lot of gaskets (and surface machining on things like valve covers) and just used various Permatex sealants. It worked damned well.

IMG_6301-1200A.jpg
 

Rearanger

Active Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2008
Messages
1,429
Reaction score
23
Points
38
Location
Southeast USA
Vehicle Year
2003
Make / Model
Ford
Transmission
Manual
I wish I had taken a picture of the back of the timing cover. What happens is that eventually the factory gasket leaks a little around the large outlets in the front of the block (arrows). It does not appear they used a sealant with the gasket, or if they did it was not an RTV. Once the antifreeze gets behind the aluminum timing cover it starts to corrode the material and the gap grows over time. Mine was certainly re-usable, but it definitely needed RTV - of course I don't know if it seals as I have not got it back together yet.
Mine leaked where your red arrow is on the left of the pic at an upper bolt hole. At first I removed the offending bolt and cleaned the threads on it and in the block and resealed with Permatex thread sealant. It took about 3 days but the weep came back.

I already had a leak in this same area several thousand miles ago and fixed it - but I guess not the best. I think the thread sealant leaked, but will know more when I get in there in the spring. I'll find a new thread sealant.

I'm not impressed with Ford design and the weakness of so many through holes for the cover and water pump as well as the pan gasket where the front cover fits.

Thinking of dumping the truck and buying Toyota.
 

mikkelstuff

Well-Known Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Mar 26, 2018
Messages
603
Reaction score
467
Points
63
Location
Brighton, CO
Vehicle Year
2002
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Engine Size
3.0L
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
The timing case cover began to weep on my 2002 3.0L with 140K miles. I was warned that this comes from acidic coolant eating away at the aluminum timing case cover. This had been my Dad's truck and I doubt the antifreeze had ever been changed. It was certainly awful looking crap when drained.

Of course the timing case cover had to be replaced and I now periodically check the coolant pH.
 

Rearanger

Active Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2008
Messages
1,429
Reaction score
23
Points
38
Location
Southeast USA
Vehicle Year
2003
Make / Model
Ford
Transmission
Manual
The timing case cover began to weep on my 2002 3.0L with 140K miles. I was warned that this comes from acidic coolant eating away at the aluminum timing case cover. This had been my Dad's truck and I doubt the antifreeze had ever been changed. It was certainly awful looking crap when drained.

Of course the timing case cover had to be replaced and I now periodically check the coolant pH.
I've always maintained my coolant with 5 year Walmart Supertech with rad draining and refill every two years.
 

8thTon

Well-Known Member
--- Banned ---
Joined
Jan 13, 2019
Messages
1,378
Reaction score
806
Points
113
Location
Pennsylvania
Vehicle Year
2004
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Engine Size
3.0
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
My credo
My world is filled with stuff that needs to be fixed
Mine leaked where your red arrow is on the left of the pic at an upper bolt hole. At first I removed the offending bolt and cleaned the threads on it and in the block and resealed with Permatex thread sealant. It took about 3 days but the weep came back.

I already had a leak in this same area several thousand miles ago and fixed it - but I guess not the best. I think the thread sealant leaked, but will know more when I get in there in the spring. I'll find a new thread sealant.

I'm not impressed with Ford design and the weakness of so many through holes for the cover and water pump as well as the pan gasket where the front cover fits.

Thinking of dumping the truck and buying Toyota.
I suspect the leak was at the cover gasket, then out around the bolt, but not at the threads of the bolt.

The timing case cover began to weep on my 2002 3.0L with 140K miles. I was warned that this comes from acidic coolant eating away at the aluminum timing case cover. This had been my Dad's truck and I doubt the antifreeze had ever been changed. It was certainly awful looking crap when drained.

Of course the timing case cover had to be replaced and I now periodically check the coolant pH.
The part of the timing cover that was eroded on mine was never supposed to be exposed to coolant anyway. It should have been safely sealed behind the gasket. Therefore the gasket system failed first, allowing coolant to get to that area.

I also suspect the timing cover was made with some pretty cheap pot metal, but there was no sign of that on the water pump casting. It had eroded and pitted pretty badly in several other spots. They are kinda pricey and I believe there was still decent wall thickness in the area, so I decided to skim those areas with RTV even though it would be bad to have a hole between the cooling and oiling systems.
 

8thTon

Well-Known Member
--- Banned ---
Joined
Jan 13, 2019
Messages
1,378
Reaction score
806
Points
113
Location
Pennsylvania
Vehicle Year
2004
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Engine Size
3.0
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
My credo
My world is filled with stuff that needs to be fixed
Well it's all back together finally and seems to be working and not leaking, although I only had time to take it around the block after warming it up fully. After the rain stops today I'll check the coolant level and give it a good run and check for leaks again.

It got a new water pump, new alternator, new timing set, and I changed the oil even though it didn't need it because I wasn't sure if I got coolant or junk in the pan while it was open at the front.
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Staff online

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Truck of The Month


Kirby N.
March Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Events

25th Anniversary Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Top