Threaded shift knob to splined gear shift lever install


Natetone

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-I own a 2001 ranger edge and i wanted to swap out the stock plain black rubber shift knob for something a little more aggressive and comfortable. I searched around for an aftermarket knob for my ranger and found out that the only ones that fit the stock gear shift lever are those tacky 'slip on' ones you can usually find at a Kragens or Autozone. I eventually found a t-handle style B&M aluminum shift knob i liked but it required a threaded gear shift lever to thread on to. Heres my 'how to' on installing a insert to allow you to utilize a threaded shift knob on your ranger's stock gear shift lever.


..... on a budget :icon_thumby:


(btw: I couldnt yank the knob off like most of you lucky peeps could so i decided to document the whole tear-down process)


1)

First i took a razor and scored my way through the rubber skin on the bland stock shift knob.






2)

After tearing off the rubber skin you reveal the injection molded plastic skeleton of the stock knob. Mine was a little brittle so i was able to just flex it with some jaws and it began cracking apart, otherwise there multiple ways to 'chew' or cut the plastic off with various hand tools or to even split it down the side by drilling guide holes and screwing large self-tapping screws down into them. Whatever gets the job done.







3)

After breaking through the plastic, you reveal a cast metal core. It is only slip-fitted to the remaining plastic between the lever and itself so it should come off with ease. The remaining plastic over the lever is factory glued to the splines that run down the top of the gear shift lever, so your probably better off cutting down the shaft rather than 'chewing' it off piece by piece .







4)

Clean off all plastic and glue leftover in the spline's grooves and inside the lever's cavity.







5)

Next comes the threaded insert bolt thats needed to attach any threaded knob.

(I found that a 3/8-2.5" bolt was able to sit down inside the lever cavity perfectly and with just enough space leftover for a cold welding agent. The 2.5" length was perfect too because the way it sits inside the cavity aligns the threaded section of the bolt shaft right at the very top of the gear shift lever. In addition, i found most aftermarket threaded shift knobs come with a 3/8 step up/step down threaded insert for attaching the knob to the lever)

I used a pipe cutter to roughen up the non-threaded part of the bolt so the cold weld agent has something to grip to besides the smooth part of the bolt.






6)

Then i cut the head off the bolt







7)

With the bolt roughened up and prepped for glue, i needed to do the same with the other surface inside the lever cavity. So i took a rough rat tailed file and knared at the insides of the cavity (making sure to remove all visible paint).









8)

Double check the fit, making sure that any excess metal burs don't keep the bolt from smoothly sliding into the cavity. Also check to make sure that the threads start where you want them to because once you glue it place, you wont be able to make adjustments.







9)

I used JB Weld 'KWIK' because it sets in around 4 mins. This is important because as you coat both the cavity and the threaded bolt with the JBW and insert the bolt into the cavity you create a fierce air pocket between the two. This air pocket will naturally want to push back as you compress it in the cavity causing the bolt to eject itself back out of the cavity. This is solved by holding the bolt down for around 4 mins until the JBW sets.

(screwing on a jam nut or placing a block of wood at the top will help take the pressure off your palm while holding it there)








10)

Once the JBW cures, go ahead and thread on your choice of knobs and secure it with Loctite (or your girlfriends nail polish if you cant afford it). Then lock the jam nut up against it for extra secureness.






11)

Now, if your like me you have probably scratched up the lever quite a bit:



I found a cheep and clean looking way to cover up those leftover blemishes.

- 1/2" ID (13mm) split flex tubing -

Cut to size and slip over











12)

And your done



















-cheers :icon_cheers:
 


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MAranger

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qoute:
Once the JBW cures, go ahead and thread on your choice of knobs and secure it with Loctite (or your girlfriends nail polish if you cant afford it). Then lock the jam nut up against it for extra secureness.



what if you cna't afford a girlfriend either:icon_rofl:
 

MountainMike

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Awesome, I've been wanting a T-handle in my truck for the longest time
 

GeorgiaBoy 87

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I wish this guide was around when I had my other truck. I spent two days trying to get the darn shift knob off, finally I just took the lever out and beat the knob with a BIG hammer.
 

Natetone

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I wish this guide was around when I had my other truck. I spent two days trying to get the darn shift knob off, finally I just took the lever out and beat the knob with a BIG hammer.
:icon_rofl: duuude u cant believe how many times i talked myself out of tryin that same method



natetone
 

87Bronc2

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Wish this would've been around 3 years ago when I decided to do the same but couldn't figure out how. My resolution wasn't as good as yours. Automotive Goop is some good stuff though, also due to its rubberistic feel, it was bit of a vibration reducer too. ha.
 

Bajabronco

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Another option to cover the scratches is some large heat-shrink, might stay put a little better. I am going back and forth on the t-handle shifter in mine, can't decide.
 

babytruck

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instead of glue couldn't you tap it out and use allthread. I dont know i havent tried it. Or did you already try that?
 

holyford86

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When I installed my shift handle I just drilled it out to fit over the splines then drilled and tapped for a set screw in an inconspicuous spot
 


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