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The importance of running Top-Tier gasoline in your 2019+ Ranger.


sgtsandman

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85_Ranger4x4

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What a rinky dink thing.
 

sgtsandman

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Better than picking at the valves with a screw driver and various picks and way better than pulling the head so you can remove the valves.

The DI valve coking problem doesn’t make anybody happy, except for maybe the shop owner getting the money. I doubt the mechanic or the vehicle owner is very happy.
 

85_Ranger4x4

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Not the cleaning, the fact that they need cleaned.
 

sgtsandman

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Not the cleaning, the fact that they need cleaned.
Yep. Supposedly the redesigned, bigger engines have gotten dual systems to address the problem. DI for the efficiency and port to keep the valves clean.
 

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Quite a few people claim they were using Top Tier gas in the 90s. There was very little detergent in the gas back then because fuel injection was just beginning to become mainstream. Top Tier didn't come around until 2004.


I'm kind of confused about how Top Tier gas is going to do anything but keep the injectors from gumming up in direct-injection engines because the gas doesn't touch the valves, and that's why they have problems with deposits on their valves.

When I took the intake manifold off my Duratec I took a look at the intake ports out of curiosity. This is port injection. There's no deposits at all on the intake valves. They're nice and shiny.


My pinto engine gives zero f***s. Gas is gas to it.
This is true. I had a Pinto with a 2.8L V6. It ran fine on the 43¢ a gallon gasohol Arco sold in the mid-80s.
 

OcdFabrication

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Just to throw my $0.02 cents in is the only reason any of you will experience Valve Build up in these newer generation Eco Boost Engines, as already stated, Is due to the Direct Injection. Before it was main stream the only "Main" build up was Pre Injector nozzle, where the fuel is not cleaning the back of the valve off. And had a TREMENDIOUS amount to due with not maintaining good engine oil or changing it regularly. The entire gimmick against a 5000-7000mile oil change has always shown to be wrong in multiple studies and test across more then just our country.

Direct Injection Engines have a fail safe in this department and that is a spare injector that Ford used to spray fuel into the intake as a "Self Cleaning Procedure" but early on was shown to make emotions too high while in the cleaning process so most have been tuned down ( Low Cleaning Effects ) or completely deleted for the USD market. I got the chance to work at a machine shop for a number of years rebuilding engines and we contracted with local dealerships for multiple machining jobs. So I was sent to some EcoBoost and Ford Training sessions because they were free, and why not! I have a few books on this and ill see if I can dig them up to show you how they are training shops/technicians in these scenarios and what process they want when the build up becomes a drivability issue. But hands down. There all time immediate fix to this issue is only one option. REPLACE the intake. Witch in my opinion ( Aside from cost of manufacturing, obviously ) is why mainly all new intake manifolds are plastic. They have a TSB for older generations to just change the manifold and ship the customer with no cleaning process of the valves.

Most shops are resorting back to the walnut blasting services that were very common in the mid 2000's. Witch is a GREAT process and not that costly. Using a higher grade fuel is a HUGE debate, and always has wives tales from the 1950's that stuck with people. But for me. In California. We have 3 fuels, 87 / 89 / 91 octane. I religiously only use gas stations that are busy and well known ( Chevron , Shell , Etc.. ) and ONLY use 91 Octane in everything I own. My daily driver ( 2001 Toyota Corolla AE101 ) , the wife's Bronco II ( 2.9L ) , Our 2015 Audi SQ5 ( I would use higher if I had access for this car ) , and many more I own but wont explain on haha. Without a doubt its just what I do. And onto OIL! Every single car runs 2 oils with one exception for the Audi. That's IT. Ams Oil for the classics, with a bottle of Zink. Chevron 15w-40 Oil for the Diesel ( 7.3L OBS Ford ). And LiquiMoly for the Audi. And they all get changed at 3,500 miles. No exceptions. No excuses. Oils get absolutely beat down in modern engines being pushed threw small passages and VVT solenoids along with High Temp to Cooled temp very rapidly. Almost no oil can handle that abuse, Let alone for 7,500 miles + depending on who you talk too. Your PCV system is recycling that oil vapor trash back into your intake. The longer you go, the worst that vapor gets.

My take on the EcoBoost line up is nothing but pure love. Its the most adaptive, yet simple engine platform on the market. But I am basing my first statement off of a few years back, on top of the fact its 2am here after just working about 18 hours HAHA. So some stuff could be wrong about Ford's cleaning process on these until I can back it up with what I'm pretty sure I remember reading. Ill find some of those class books and post some updates when I get the chance.

To end this useless little rant I went on Haha, I will address the cost of fuel with the same thing I ALWAYS say. I do not look at the price of fuel nor worry that I go out of my way to buy better fuel for more money. Because at the end of the day, what are you going to do, NOT buy it ? :icon_rofl:

Current California Chevron Fuel Cost nearest me ;

87 octane : $5.50
89 octane : $5.60
91 octane : $5.70
Diesel : $6.50
 

OcdFabrication

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And just to start a better side of this topic. The one thing that would benefit your engine build up more then better fuel / oil procedures is a aftermarket oil catch can system to brake the gap betwwek your PCV and intake system. A few companies make drop in units for the 2.3L. No cutting or hacking together. So if you have a warranty issue simply put it back so they cant B**** that you touched it. That not always a process some people like to use but every car I own has a aftermarket "Trash Can" on it as I like to call it. Well worth the investment. Every Penny.
 

sgtsandman

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The catch can is something I definitely intend to do on mine. I don't pay attention to the miles on my vehicles when it comes to oil changes. It's every 6 months, which is often less thane even the 7,500 miles that is recommended on the 2011 and it's always synthetic oil with a good oil filter. Amsoil definitely keeps the inside of the engine cleaner, I just don't have Amsoil money and the left over bottles from oil changes goes into the power equipment that needs it. Thankfully, everything I maintain requires the same oil viscosity, so that makes things much, much easier. Fuel is always a major name brand. I've had less than great experiences with off name brands. Not enough to damage anything but performance was down and fuel mileage took a dump.
 

OcdFabrication

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The catch can is something I definitely intend to do on mine. I don't pay attention to the miles on my vehicles when it comes to oil changes. It's every 6 months, which is often less thane even the 7,500 miles that is recommended on the 2011 and it's always synthetic oil with a good oil filter. Amsoil definitely keeps the inside of the engine cleaner, I just don't have Amsoil money and the left over bottles from oil changes goes into the power equipment that needs it. Thankfully, everything I maintain requires the same oil viscosity, so that makes things much, much easier. Fuel is always a major name brand. I've had less than great experiences with off name brands. Not enough to damage anything but performance was down and fuel mileage took a dump.
Amsoil is always cheaper then a Engine! Haha. But honestly. I'm a 9 to 5 guy also. I'm not built of money and cant always afford the things I need to do to my vehicles so I completely understand. I don't own anything that Requires a Synthetic Oil and even when I do, it only gets a synthetic blend. The funny thing about oil is I actually stay away from all name brands. Ams Oil is there own Oil just like Chevron, and Liquimoly. BUT the oil I use very very often aside from that and highly recommend is the Oreilly's House Blend. Oreilly's contracted with Valvoline around 2013 to make this oil and its simple. Its the same oil you see on your shelf without all the added in BullS***. Ive used the oil with absolute great success on very high performance engines to daily drivers. Almost all my customers are in love with it also!

Ill end with this. And ill say it louder for the people in the back!

THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS HIGH MILAGE OIL

That is all :icon_thumby:
 

CMOS

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Just sayin' - Catch Cans are a good preventative to the intake valve coking on a GDI motor.

CMOS
 

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