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Thanks to y’all, Rockauto & Harbor Freight!


VegasDevil

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Burlington, WA
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1996
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4.0 V6
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Automatic
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2”
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31x10.5x15
Hey guys, just wanted to introduce myself and say thank you very much! Y’all, along with my Haynes manual made it possible for a guy like me, with no real mechanical experience beyond the occasional alternator or battery swap, to swap out the motor and rebuild the front end of my 96 XLT 4x4 4.0 AT. Thank god I discovered rockauto.com! I could’ve never afforded it if I went to AutoZone. I only had some mismatched sockets to begin with and quickly learned that having the right tool for the job was crucial. Plus it gave me an excuse to buy a lot of cool stuff from Harbor Freight!

I bought the truck, which had 245,000 miles on it, from the son of the original owner. He told me the engine was mis-firing bad, had low compression and needed some major work. The truck was exactly the model I wanted (4x4, V6 4.0) it was fully loaded, and it already had BFG 31’s on it. I bought it for $600 and for some reason just felt confident that I could fix it, although at times I’ve felt like I bit off more than I could chew.

I bought a used motor with 97,000 miles online. When it arrived I remember staring at it for a good hour. I didn’t know where to begin... I didn’t even own jack stands, or a jack, or a hoist. I dove into TRS, I scoured your threads, I studied your tech articles, I bought a Haynes manual, a torque wrench and other tools that y’all said were must haves and I got to it. It took me a couple months and I almost caved and hired a mobile mechanic to come out and make the connection between the torque converter and flex plate, but I didn’t. That connection took me over a week to make successfully, but I did it on my own and I’m pretty proud of myself. It was a great moment. When it came time to start the engine, I was scared shitless! But it started right up and sounded beautiful.

Now I can’t stop! Since then I’ve replaced all three rear u-joints, the center driveshaft bearing, all four shocks, front springs and 2” spacers, tie rods inner and outer, upper ball joints, lower ball joints, sway bar links, radius arm bushings, axle pivot bushings, motor mounts, axle bearings and seals, wheel bearings and seals, rotors, brake pads, and rear leaf spring helpers (for the slide in Okanagan mini camper that I restored).

I still gotta get it aligned and I want to get rid of the auto locking hubs and go to manual. I live in WA state... there’s a lot of mud this time of year and I can’t wait to get out in it! Sorry, I didn’t mean to be so long-winded. Mostly I just wanted to say, this site and all of your combined knowledge and experience is a real gift to Newbs like myself, and I just want y’all to know that I really appreciate you guys. Thank you very much!
 


PetroleumJunkie412

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My credo
Give 'yer balls a tug. Fight me.
TRS saved my ass more times than I could count even before I became a member and started posting.

I've quit every hobby I've ever had.
Except Rangers. Can't shake this one.

Glad we could be of assistance! And nicely done with the work.

We love pics! Post some up when you can!
 

ericbphoto

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6"
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35"
My credo
In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are different.
Congratulations! Wow! What an accomplishment. Glad you're having fun.
 

Uncle Gump

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Lead follow or get out of my way
Hellz yes... wanna come wrench on mine a bit for practice?

Way to get after it... Welcome to TRS.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Glad that we were of some help. Its really great to here feedback like yours.
Welcome to TRS.
 

Oxxon

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Hello and welcome to TRS!!
 

Josh B

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Cool beans Vegas, good luck with it all.
 

bobbywalter

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it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
Wow....I really enjoyed.reading this.

The money rock auto saves you allows for tool expansion....which expands projects and experience to the point you don't fear mechanical problems and will adventure about like we all should.

Thank you for taking the time to share the experience.
 

Josh B

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I still gotta get it aligned and I want to get rid of the auto locking hubs and go to manual. I live in WA state... there’s a lot of mud this time of year and I can’t wait to get out in it!
I really can't figure out why do manual hubs when pushing that button is so easy. Got to admit I've never had manual hubs, and am using the only ones I've ever had, which are auto, but I can remember a friend in the early 80's wrestling with his manual locking hubs in the cold icy mud trying to lock them in.
I'll keep my little push button thank you :D
 

ericbphoto

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Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6"
Tire Size
35"
My credo
In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are different.
I really can't figure out why do manual hubs when pushing that button is so easy. Got to admit I've never had manual hubs, and am using the only ones I've ever had, which are auto, but I can remember a friend in the early 80's wrestling with his manual locking hubs in the cold icy mud trying to lock them in.
I'll keep my little push button thank you :D
Many automatic hub systems are prone to failure. Manual hubs give many if us peace of mind that when we need/want them they will lock. Many of us still have the pushbutton for the transfer case.
 

Josh B

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Do they fail due to maintenance?
 

85_Ranger4x4

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ericbphoto

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2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6"
Tire Size
35"
My credo
In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are different.
Do they fail due to maintenance?
The vacuum hubs (PVH) are a known bad design. The regular automatic hubs are ok in a perfect world, which we don’t have. They are what I would call a passive system. When the axle shaft puts torque to them, they should engage. But, especially with An open differential, how do you know exactly when or if one or both axle shafts will really deliver the torque to engage the hubs. It just seems like a crap shoot to me. I can’t rely on that. In fact, if my truck was strictly for off-road use, I might be tempted to get rid of the manual hubs and go live axle so it’s always engaged positively until something breaks.
 

Josh B

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Actually my "auto" button simply engages the transfer case, and moves it from 4wh to 4wl. The front hubs engage as the front drive shaft begins to turn. I've turned the front drive shaft with all 4 wheels off the ground and that alone engaged the front hubs.

Anyhows, I like it :D

Can I have your old ones Vegas!? :D That truly is a fine looking rig you're putting together there.
 

bobbywalter

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V8
Engine Size
BIGGER
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Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
sawzall?
Tire Size
33-44
My credo
it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
Auto hubs are fine if you run stock ish tires, drive reasonably..... and don't plow heavy.

If you like to get rowdy.....you will not like auto hubs.
 

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