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TDI Ranger Build

fte

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Very nice build! Can't wait to rear the finished result. Curious to see what mpg #'s you get as well as performance. I am enjoying 40+ mpg with my Kubota powered Ranger. It's a 2.2 DI with turbo added, a little "old school" compaired to your setup.
 


bobbywalter

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I know this is a small update but I have finished up the coolant lines and frost heater install. Nothing too difficult here, just need to undo my heater core bypass and put it together the right way. I had intended to run the Ranger vacuum operated bypass valve as well as the TDI coolant glow plugs but I simply don't have enough room to get it all in the space avaiable. Keep It Simple Stupid! I'll likely need to install a bleeder valve on the heater core outlet but for the time being I'm going to slip the hose off the barb B5-Passat style.







Now I need to fab up a bracket to hold the frostheater in place, connect up my radiator lines and fill it with water (need to flush out the green stuff before I put G12 in there).

I have a question for you guys: As you can see I've removed my heater core bypass due to space limitations (I've also had to leave out my coolant glow plugs due to space :sad:) and am wondering what effect this will have on heating/cooling performance? Does the HVAC plenum have a bypass door that bypasses the heater core when you turn on the A/C? If it is absolutely necessary I can plumb it back in but the way it ended up was so very simple and I'd hate to have a rats nest of there.


you will likely want the coolant glow plugs if it snows where you live or stays freezing all winter.


i sure as hell see more then enough real estate to use it too.

kick the outlet from block line forward and set it up on the wheel well.

if it dont freeze alot you should be ok without iit.
 

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you will likely want the coolant glow plugs if it snows where you live or stays freezing all winter.

i sure as hell see more then enough real estate to use it too.
kick the outlet from block line forward and set it up on the wheel well.

if it dont freeze alot you should be ok without iit.
haha I'm sure compared to your engine compartment I have acres of real estate to work with.

I do know with my TDI if it gets really cold <0F my car will cool down fast when I sit at a light. Unfortunately the way the vw coolant glow plugs work they wouldn't even activate to alleviate this - they only operate when the coolant is really cold. I suppose I could wire up a switch to fool the controller into turning them on but the problem becomes overloading the 120amp alternator if I were to kick the coolant glow plugs on HIGH while the combustion chamber plugs are also in afterglow.

Anyway, I'll take a look at the spot in front of the HVAC fan to see if there is enough room. Thanks for the idea.



 

Will

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I was thinking it was around 48ish. The ranger is about 500 lbs heavier
SVT
A late model 4x4, 4.0, 4x4, extended cab Ranger is only 3,600# curb. Single cab 2wd Rangers are under 3,000#. Early ones are much under 3,000#.

My Tdi Passat is almost as heavy as the heaviest-ever stock Ranger. It's slicker, aerodynamically, and I get 40mpg town and mid 50's interstate. I've often thought that taking the front subframe and sticking it under a Ranger would be a brilliant plan. It would be a fwd Ranger, of course, but very useful in everything but offroad use.
 

triumphrider-1

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My '99 comes in at JUST over 4,000Lbs on the scales I used at school.
 

Rulebreaker

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I've often thought that taking the front subframe and sticking it under a Ranger would be a brilliant plan. It would be a fwd Ranger, of course, but very useful in everything but offroad use.
I've had the same idea only I was thinking about finding something with a rear output shaft and extending the rear drive shaft making it AWD. Just not sure there is a AWD Diesel on the market for a donor. I'm also wondering how fuel efficient that new 4 cylinder ecoboost Escape engine is. That might be a possibility as well. Only problem with the Escape drivetrain is the box on the front of the rear differential that engages and disengages the AWD might be a pain to install on a real Ranger axle.
 

chucky2

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I know this doesn't have anything to do with the swap, but, just wanted to suggest that while you've got it all torn apart, now might be a good time to take out the A/C evaporator box and heater box, and clean them out. Smell can develop over time, and the reason is the organic matter gets trapped in there and breeds bacteria and mold. If you clean it out now, you should be good for...a long while. Just a thought...

...btw, awesome job. Jealous of your skills and your build!

Chuck
 

bobbywalter

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My credo
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A late model 4x4, 4.0, 4x4, extended cab Ranger is only 3,600# curb. Single cab 2wd Rangers are under 3,000#. Early ones are much under 3,000#.

My Tdi Passat is almost as heavy as the heaviest-ever stock Ranger. It's slicker, aerodynamically, and I get 40mpg town and mid 50's interstate. I've often thought that taking the front subframe and sticking it under a Ranger would be a brilliant plan. It would be a fwd Ranger, of course, but very useful in everything but offroad use.
will...i have never seen an ext cab 4.0 4x4 scale at less then 4100 on cat scales. i have only weighed a few

my ranger stripped back with little axles was usually over 42 and thats for a weak ass 88. with the 6 it was 3900 plus...these days it 6g on militaries....those and he h center steels are weighty...











chad.....awd tdi vw are around somwhere...some benz and audi/volvo iirc.

be a easy swap to do it like will suggested. nice to do to a 2wd b2....make it low and hi mpg.
 

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will...i have never seen an ext cab 4.0 4x4 scale at less then 4100 on cat scales. i have only weighed a few

my ranger stripped back with little axles was usually over 42 and thats for a weak ass 88. with the 6 it was 3900 plus...these days it 6g on militaries....those and he h center steels are weighty...
Probably one of those things where the listed weight is different from "real world" weight. I've seen my truck (supercab, 4x4, V6, 5spd) listed as something like 3,600lbs curb, but I've never weighed it to verify.

**edit**
3,623lbs : http://autos.msn.com/research/vip/spec_Exterior.aspx?year=2000&make=Ford&model=Ranger&trimid=92329#VIP_TAB
 

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I know this doesn't have anything to do with the swap, but, just wanted to suggest that while you've got it all torn apart, now might be a good time to take out the A/C evaporator box and heater box, and clean them out. Smell can develop over time, and the reason is the organic matter gets trapped in there and breeds bacteria and mold. If you clean it out now, you should be good for...a long while. Just a thought...

...btw, awesome job. Jealous of your skills and your build!

Chuck
Thanks Chuck. I hadn't thought of this and will take a peek to see how things look. I'm sure it is even worse with this truck since it has been sitting so long.
 

greengeeker

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Charge Air Pipes cont'd

My buddy had a heck of time welding these junk chinesium pipes. He also tackled the airbox plate, MAP bung and CCV bung for me. Hell of a guy.

A couple of guys thought the weird discoloration might be due to the pipes being anodized? Anyone ever seen this before? I'll throw a coat of paint on them once I cut the holes for the bungs.



 

greengeeker

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I also started fabbing up a bracket to hold my proportioning valve, fuel pressure regulator, power steering reservoir and the fuel filter.

I still need to figure out the placement of the weldnuts for the latter two and weld them in place. Oh, I'm also going to be welding in some weldnuts for an aftermarket fuel filter head when I decide to add that in.

 

greengeeker

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One last little update: I decided to add the coolant bypass valve back in. Ended up fitting nicely. The small line coming off of the head goes into the line nearest you that returns to the water pump (the modified hard pipe). The far line is the large outlet on the back of the head (black plastic outlet pipe).

 

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