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TDI Ranger Build

joecool85

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It'll be interesting to see how your mpg changes now that you've fixed some leaks and done some more tuning. Keep it up and thanks for keeping us in the loop, this thing is cool!
 


greengeeker

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I started to reread the entire thread but 27 pages !
From what I scanned over it looks good, milage is nice 38, better than anything Ford offers.
Why couldn’t Ford come out with something like this, a diesel powered small pickup, a Ranger that is, it just doesn’t make sense that all of our vehicles aren’t getting this kind of milage, should be a government priority.

Looks good.
Are you going to do a kit for these swaps or at least approach a company to do one ?
I'm also disgusted that none of the big three feel it is important to offer these trucks to the public.

I'm looking to offer a kit.
 

greengeeker

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It'll be interesting to see how your mpg changes now that you've fixed some leaks and done some more tuning. Keep it up and thanks for keeping us in the loop, this thing is cool!
Thanks Joe. I just need to concentrate on staying out of the throttle. :icon_bounceblue:

As far as FE mods go, these are the things I'm planning on doing:

1) tonneau cover
2) taller gears
3) Lower the truck
4) Belly pans

As has been mentioned before I might be able to swing 2&3 at the same time by going with an explorer axle and some lift shackles (if I'm after a 2-3" drop). I'm thinking I'll need to lower the front more than the rear as I'm almost sitting level now with the lighter engine.
 

greengeeker

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Dyno today! I will report back later today with video, graphs, etc. Super pumped to finally get my baseline dyno.
 

greengeeker

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Baseline dyno

Big thanks to Beach's Long Lake Service in New Brighton. Great guys to work with. Testing went great. I logged data the entire time so I'll process that data later and post up the results.







Optical tach bracket



Run 1: Baseline 1, (no dyno cooling fan) http://youtu.be/c18VdTqRq-4
Run 2: Baseline 2 http://youtu.be/Z94ccH31u8c http://youtu.be/C1dk0uK3-qo
Run 3: Baseline 3
Run 4: No air filter
Run 5: No air filter, no muffler http://youtu.be/o41vyNEvnwg

Results (at the wheels, with correction factor):

Run 1: 109/212 (102/199 without CF)
Run 2: 110/208
Run 3: 110/208
Run 4: 110/207
Run 5: 110/206

Here is the printout for runs 1-3




Hardware summary:

- stock ALH longblock
- 10mm IP
- .184 nozzles (stock 5spd)
- In-tank lift pump (regulator set at 3psi)
- vnt15
- 2" exhaust, stock ranger muffler
- 2.5" FMIC, 2.5" piping
- 2.5" race pipe, PD150 intake manifold
- Stock Ranger intake, WIX filter
- 3.73 rear axle, 35psi rear tires
 

greengeeker

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Does anyone know where the Air Lift helper spring actually sits on the Ranger? I've seen several pictures that show it sits directly over the axle and some that show it just in front of the axle. I'd like to get the latter because I do plan on going with the explorer axle. Maybe I should get the explorer kit?
 

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The kit that I aquired has a bracket kit that would work in either location. I never installed it, but it looks like it would work with an explorer axle, just mount it on the spring in front of the axle. I don't think the Ex kit would work on a Ranger... The Ex springs sit right under the frame. The Ranger kit has a plate that mounts off the side of the frame, to line up over the spring.
 

greengeeker

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Interesting. Thanks for the response Sno.

Just so everyone is aware Air Lift has a $50 rebate on their helper springs and another $50 on their compressor setups. Only valid until 10/31/13.
 

livetoride21

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Wow, just read your entire thread. Great work! Very similar to the swap I am planning on doing. I've been making plans for putting a 1.8TD (mechanical injection) into a 4x4 ranger. Glad to see a more complex TDI in a 2wd.
 

greengeeker

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Wow, just read your entire thread. Great work! Very similar to the swap I am planning on doing. I've been making plans for putting a 1.8TD (mechanical injection) into a 4x4 ranger. Glad to see a more complex TDI in a 2wd.
Thanks! I'm not familiar with a 1.8TD. What did that come in?
 

greengeeker

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General Updates

Heat

Well I decided to finally replace the heater core as I was having a tough time keeping the windshield defrosted and it was getting too cold to just have a window open. It's about the job you would expect except when you go to actually remove the heater core and it is massively ballooned likely due to letting straight water freeze in the core.



Since I had to pull my steering column to do this repair I did take the opportunity to swap in a tilt column that I picked up at the local Upullit yard. It makes a world of difference to have even that small amount of tilt (bigger guy in a little truck)! I'm also working on mounting my cruise control stalk to the side of the column. Will post pics when I get to that.



Since I only had HIGH fan speed I also needed to address my fan resistor pack which is notorious for corrosion in the electrical connector damaging the pack or the connector itself. Well mine was so corroded I could not separate the two and had to basically cut the two apart. Even then the spade terminals would not come out of the female counterparts so I had to buy myself a repair kit from Ford and solder it in. It is very nice to have heat and I have to say it is quite a bit better than my Jetta's heat.



Aero mods

I tried my first aero mod: I borrowed a hard tonneau cover from a buddy at work. Surprisingly it really hasn't improved my mileage. I put one tank on it driving exactly the same commute (before the weather cooled off) and got the same mileage. I don't have a picture but it's hideous. :eek:

Gearing

My biggest update is I have now swapped in a rear axle for one with taller gears. As mentioned previously my truck came with a 3.73:1 rearend which was tons of fun with plenty of snort but I was spinning a little faster on the highway than I liked. Actually I was spinning faster (2450rpm) than I was calculating (2350rpm) for my commute speed of 65mph. By my calculations a 3.08:1 rearend should drop my cruising rpm by 409 to around 2000rpm. Perfect right? Well my new rearend has me running right at 1900rpm @ 65mph. I'm more than pleased with how quite the drive is now (will take a measurement at both rpms to compare) but am a little concerned my 2056 turbo will not be very responsive in 5th gear at all....that is unless I'm breaking the law ;). Anyway, what is nice about this steep drop is my 4th gear cruising rpm is exactly where the 5th gear was before so I now have a true overdrive for bombing down the interstate.

While I was swapping over axles I decided to fix the parking brakes which have been inoperable for quite some time. I threw everything back together but since have been struggling with dragging rear brakes. I've had the drums off at least a dozen times per side and think I may have finally tracked down the issue: my OReilly brake cables (before you harp on me, I was assured by a trusted parts guy they had had luck with the exact parts on his Ranger) are 1) not releasing the parking pawl 2) pushing the rear shoe into the drum. I've just disconnected the cables and adjusted the shoes and will give it another commute to see if the dragging is solved.
 

chucky2

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Thanks for the update!

Will be interesting to see what your new mileage comes in at once you get your brake dragging issues fixed. Over 40 perhaps?
 

greengeeker

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Thanks for the update!

Will be interesting to see what your new mileage comes in at once you get your brake dragging issues fixed. Over 40 perhaps?
I'm hoping. Unfortunately this tank's mileage might already be ruined since I drove to work twice with the dragging brakes resulting in around 30mpg for those 140 miles.
 

livetoride21

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Thanks! I'm not familiar with a 1.8TD. What did that come in?
HA, my mistake. I meant to write 1.9, stupid typo. I'm planning on swapping a pre TDI 1.9L. The reasons I'm planning on this motor over the more powerful/tuneable TDI, is for pure simplicity. Basicly the only wires that it needs to run is the injector solenoid, and the starter wires, and once its running all that it needs is the injector solenoid wire. All other wiring is not necessary once the motor is running (glow plugs, etc), and there is no computer. Should be a great motor for water crossings in 4x4, and hoping for around 200 ft lbs of torque with a slightly modified injection pump / upped boost pressure.
Anyways, thanks again for posting your build!
 

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