TCC Lockup -- By Manual Switch?

[ford4wd08]

@RonD

Well I figured out part of my problem tonight. Apparently wiring doesn't like hot exhaust pipes..... LOL I had melted one of the wires running to the plug. Spliced in some new wire and got it working off my switch again.

I'll leave it like that for tomorrow for the drive to work, then I'll go back to my controller. I've left it hooked up and it is closing the switch at 45 mph like I want it to. I'm confident I can have it working by the weekend now, or I'll just leave it on the switch for a while. This is the first time I've had the OD and TCC working together since I started driving the rig in the fall.

One step at a time.

 

[snoranger]

off topic a bit, but have you ever heard of a tourque converter not unlocking? A couple of times a few years ago with the HHR (yes, chevrolet retro-car) I would come up to a stop sign, engine usualy cold and it would stall out, like if it was a manual and you didnt push the clutch in.

Yes it can. The converter on my ‘90 Ranger lock up solid at 220k miles. It stalled everytime I tried to put it in gear and was 2 blocks from home. I started it in neutral, put it to the floor, and shifted into drive. A lot of smoke and burnt rubber later, I was on my way. It stalled again as I stopped in my driveway... and that was where I dropped the trans and replaced the converter.

 

[ford4wd08]

Still tuning it a little bit, but the vacuum switch in conjunction with the speed controller is working well.

The vacuum switch is obviously a little harder to tune with a lot of trial and error. So far it works better in the normally open setting.

I will say the rigs seems like it can pull a hill better with the TCC locked, so I might end up with it only unlocking of I literally have it to the floor. We will see.

Also the controller has the benefit of a hystersis setting that I can vary when the switch changes back and forth. I have it set to a 4 mph window right now.

I have my wiring so I can easily bypass the vacuum switch by unplugging it if I don't like the way it is behaving or I can flip a switch and disable the whole system all together.

I believe this is by far the best way to approach the elimination of the computer control of the the TCC lockup as it is very tunable.

 

[bobbywalter]

Temperature gauge right at the output if your locking it down pulling hills.


That converter clutch don't like to slip much. Roasts fast.

 

[ford4wd08]

Temperature gauge right at the output if your locking it down pulling hills.


That converter clutch don't like to slip much. Roasts fast.

You're saying check the temp while pulling hill?

Add a temp gage?

I have a bigger cooler to install too. Just haven't got to it yet.

 

[ford4wd08]

So, after some more tuning, I have it to where the trans will hold the TCC lock, but if I give it more than 1/2 throttle it unlocks. Of course this is all above 45 mph.

It will shift between 3rd and 4th with it locked with no issues. It doesn't take much to make it downshift from OD to 3rd.

Anyone see any issues with that?

I still plan on installing my bigger trans cooler soon.

 

[bobbywalter]

Slide time....if it's crisp in unlock and lock I would think it will be good.

And yes. A temp probe on the out line to the cooler....is ideal....and an additional post cooler gives you the delta.

At one point I had a 6 position pot and temp/pressure sensors all over hell...not surgical accurate...but I knew what I had going on in relatives.

 

[bobbywalter]

These are 20 year old captain cave pig pictures and paint by color diagram.......I may have a version of this panel around the house I can maybe take pics of......I thought I had a write on it here. It was just a crude setup for prototyping. This side was a version of brake control. I was hoping to find a pic of the gauge side...

You can just see a gauge....there are a few. All electric connected to oem style psi and temp sensors via a rotary switch.

Two gauges can watch 10 items as selected.

The brakes I had setup for cutting and waterbox....just like the new bronco has as a factory option now. I had a hand held remote as well.

With an a4ld....having a in and out temp gauge along with a pressure port gauge is worth the effort in my eyes since your are custom controlling it....you get in hills you can monitor temps and lock it out if it's spiking....maybe you will never need it....but good to know.


You could even use the factory gauge once you verify its temp range against a known mechanical gauge. Just be mindful or led light the switch position...then you don't need a crap load of gauges taking up space....in all ready tight quarters.

 

[ford4wd08]

Slide time....if it's crisp in unlock and lock I would think it will be good.

And yes. A temp probe on the out line to the cooler....is ideal....and an additional post cooler gives you the delta.

At one point I had a 6 position pot and temp/pressure sensors all over hell...not surgical accurate...but I knew what I had going on in relatives.

It is crisp, no issues with the shift.

I can control the the switch with a hystersis setting as well. It keeps it from switching on and off so much so it ranges 4 mph at my current setting I believe.

 

[bobbywalter]

I would wager you are Golden.

 

[ford4wd08]

Filled up with gas this morning.... 16.7 MPG, not bad considering the hilly terrain we have here in east TN.

 

[Scott & Shari]

Here’s my problem. I have an A4LD on my girlfriend’s 4.0L 92 Ranger. The TCC and the 3-4 shift solenoids are both energized as soon as I start the engine. In park, I pulled the 3 pin connector off and looked for voltage. The red wire has 12v. The P/Y has a ground on it coming from pin 53 of the EEC and the O/Y also has a ground on it from pin 52. Both wires are not shorted to ground. Before I got into checking the EEC outputs, I pulled the connector off, started the Ranger up and started shifting. It wasn’t locked up. Then I plugged it back in and it worked fine so I thought I had fixed the problem. Now it‘s locked up plugged in or not. I’m now thinking the solenoid is stuck in the locked position and I do need to resolve the EEC issue. I don’t think its the torque converter because, from my understanding, once it goes bad it won’t unlock.
And how does the vacuum switch on the right side have anything to do with this?

 

[RonD]

Reads like a computer issue

Pull out the computer and open it up
Check the 2 or 3 blue capacitors for corrosion, you will see it
Also general condition of circuit board on both sides and the connections


The Vacuum modulator senses engine load to shift gears up or down as needed
Vacuum is high when there is little load(i.e. idle and cruising), then drops as load increases(i.e. accelerating or going up a hill), this would effect 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears
No it shouldn't effect TCC lockup

Not sure why it would stick in TCC locked, I agree it doesn't sound like the torque converter but can strictly rule that out

The computer does test wiring on both solenoids with key on, it should see 12v on each "ground" wire as that voltage just passes thru the solenoid coils
If there was a problem you should have gotten a CEL(check engine light)

 

[Scott & Shari]

This is becoming a can of worms. It all started with a blown front seal. A friend convicted me to put the torque converter nuts on hand tight while there was still a 3/8” gap between the engine and the transmission. I even asked him, “wouldn’t that pull the TC away from the tranny?” He said not to worry about it. So I had to drop the transmission again because I had to replace the TC and the pump gear. We took the transmission to a shop to have them look at the pump. They said they put some ATF in it but some of the ATF poured out when the transmission rolled around and flipped over before we tied it down like I said before we left the shop. After I installed it took 8 quarts. So I guess I need to replace the solenoids and look at the computer circuit board. There is no CEL. What’s the best way to reset the computer?