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swapping a single cab on a ext. cab frame?


Smokin2.tree

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I'm new to this forum and have wanted to expand my knowledge when it came to the differences in the frame. I recently purchased a 1988 ford ranger xlt and it has a rotted body and i have wanted to go to a flatbed and a single cab for a while now... problem. I don't understand if i should cut the single cab frame and merry it to the existing decent ext frame? also, does anyone know how to get a manual transfercase to budge from 2H? ive tried pb blaster and i dont want to ruin the linkage since these trucks are becoming very slim to none in the northeast. Also, does anyone know if the wiring harnesses are different from 1988 and 1991? I think they are the same. being that the truck I'm using for the cab is a 1991 2wd 4 banger. Lastly, I am not in the mood of making an elongated bed for the truck or messing with wheelbases. I'm going to a solid axle and this is becoming a rock crawler, so it's going to have a flatbed.
 


Rock Auto 5% Discount Code: 70D65189E6D8FF: January 5th, 2022

adsm08

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Why do people keep having this same bad idea?

If you have to ask this question you likely don't have the welding skills to put the frame back together when you are done. But to do it I believe you would need to shorten the section between the second cab mount and the riser to fit the cab. Bobbing in the rear for a short bed, eh, just build a longer flat bed. Your wheel base is going to get messed up anyway.

The transfer case, keep spraying, keep trying. They suck when they get stuck. Get something better than PB.

The wiring harnesses from 88 and 91 share a basic general shape. Other than that they are very different.
 

scotts90ranger

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The harnesses changed a lot over the years, but if you have both trucks it should be a non issue... for instance the fuel pump and tail light harness was repinned with different wire colors between '89 and an early '90 when I did my chassis swap.

The front body mounts will be the same, but you'd have to move the rear body mount to fit somewhere.

For the transfer case it depends on why it's stuck, I'd loosen the 3 bolts on the side for the linkage and just try turning the lever on the side of the case, it could just be the shifter bushings rusted together...
 

Ranger850

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Single cab on a an extended cab frame? The frames are the same from the front bumper to the back of the Rag cab. throw that single cab on and then build your flatbed over the rest of the frame. DONE.









I would also like to add that I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT. :dunno:
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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I would also like to add that I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT. :dunno:


If you want a serious performance gain, hold your throttle body open so that your truck idles at wide open throttle, then hold your intake tube in a bag of coal slag.

The intake vacuum will suck the abrasive media into the engine and abrasive flow port your intake and heads for free.





















I should have my own performance page in the tech section.
 

snoranger

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If I was building a reg cab flat bed out of a super cab... I’d bolt the cab on and make new rear cab mount brackets. Then I’d make a flat bed the length I needed. The amount of work it would take to build/cut a supercab frame down to regular cab length isn’t worth it when I could just get a regular cab frame and be done with it.
 

Ranger850

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This reminds me of a truck I once saw. It was a New work truck, Lets say F350 (?) but there was a space between the cab and bed ( about 2', maybe) and in that space was a compressor and welding machine. I thought that was a genius use of space. the compressor and welder wasn't IN the bed like most work truck that have the same equipment. The bed still had room for all the tools and things. I assumed it was like putting a single cab on a quad cab frame with the bed where it would be on a quad cab. leaving the space between the cab and bed free to put equipment there.
like this (kind of)
 


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