swapped camshaft synchro, runs great but got p1309 code

[91stranger]

So just like it says. I swapped the camshaft synchronizer yesterday with a new motorcraft one. I put it in exactly how it came out as I had pictures of the old one before I took it out and I marked it with a sharpie for good measure. Once back in I fired up the truck and it ran great. no rough idles or stalling and idles around 1000 rpms which seemed normal (I think I was at 900 before). So I drove it home (about 15 miles) with no issues. Had to go back to town about an hour after I got home so I started the truck and shortly after I got driving my CEL comes on. Truck is still running great. No weird idling or misfires that I can tell of. Now I heard that I may have to reset the CEL a few times for the computer to "relearn" the synchronizer. From what I read, the gear part is what needs to be in the exact spot as when it came out and that the housing is only set at 15 degrees to allow clearance for the sensor harness that sits on top of the synchro. I thought I had the housing pretty close to the picture. Should I be worried if the truck is running fine?

 

[RonD]

Cam synchro is the same as a distributor, cam sensor would be the rotor, although it actually reads the rotor, lol

Anyway it is timed for #1 TDC compression stroke just like a distributor was, and yes if you mark the old one(assuming it was timed OK) and then install the new one matching old one then all is well.

P1309 Misfire Detection Monitor not enabled

This could be because you need to run the Ford Test with new Cam sensor installed

Remove either battery cable, touch it to the other battery cable(drains capacitors) or leave it off 5 minutes
Hook battery back up and drive at 65MPH then slow to 40MPH, do NOT use the brakes, repeat this speed up and slow down 3 times
P1309 should not come back

 

[91stranger]

Thanks Ron. I was hoping someone could give me some input on this. I know there's a "correct" way of doing this and a way doing this right. I didn't mess with the TDC and cyl1 b.s. since I was able to remove the old one easy. I took pictures and marked it accordingly and it looked like it went back in the same way so I thought it was all good. I'd hate to remove and move it back a tooth only to find out that I made it worse lol. Hope this method works. Also, I do have a code reader ($50 harbor freight special) so should I clear the CEL with that or use the battery method?

 

[RonD]

Just clear the code, that should be OK

I think after you do the 65/40 thing it would just clear itself anyway

The computer does have a bit of lee way with cam sensor timing, so you can be a few degrees off and computer will correct it
The P1309 code was because the crank sensor and cam sensor were no longer EXACTLY in sync, computer had old cam sensor timed to crank and new sensor isn't EXACTLY the same

Crank sensor is the main sensor, cam sensor has better "resolution" because it spins at 1/2 the speed of the crank
Computer syncs cam sensor to crank sensor by adjusting injector timing during acceleration and deceleration
So the computer sees where to sync timing +/- Cam sensors "TDC" compared to Crank TDC, then it can detect misfires if power isn't added to crank when a cylinder should fire and which cylinder because crank sensor can't tell if #1 or #5 should be firing because both are at TDC at the same time

 

[91stranger]

That's great info. Also, I cleared the code and got on the highway but it was hard to slow down to 40 when traffic wants to go 70-80mph. But the light stayed off until I was on my way back from running around. I know I didn't do the 65/40 right. I was wondering how to do it correctly as in once I get to 65 do I let off the gas and idle down to 40 and then give it more gas up to 65??? or when I get to 65 do I hit the brakes to slow down to 40 and then back up to 65?? This is an automatic trans as well if that makes a difference. Thanks again Ron, you rock.

 

[RonD]

no brakes, let it slow down then hit the gas and accelerate back up to 65 I wouldn't floor it just accelerate

No, crowded freeway probably wouldn't be best bet, lol

 

[91stranger]

HAHA do you know how long it takes to cruise from 40 to 65. I'll need about 3 country miles lol. So far I have tried this method twice with no luck. I was hard on the pedal to get up to 65 though so maybe that's why. I'll keep trying.

 

[8thTon]

HAHA do you know how long it takes to cruise from 40 to 65. I'll need about 3 country miles lol. So far I have tried this method twice with no luck. I was hard on the pedal to get up to 65 though so maybe that's why. I'll keep trying.

You do have to pedal pretty hard to get to 65....

 

[RonD]

You may want to do the Battery disconnect, if you haven't already
This does usually clear the KAM(keep alive memory) in the Computer, like it does the clock and radio presets, lol

Then computer has to relearn all the saved data, like the idle settings(idle may wander a bit), and the CAM/Crank sync

Here is info on the KAM stuff that computer saves in memory: http://www.obdii.com/drivecycleford.html

#11 is the one you are trying to do

#1 tells you how to clear and reset computer, vs unhooking battery