Swapped bad fuel regulator for a new one/ won't start now

[NateD76]

I tested the fuel pressure regulator on my 1986 2.9 and it was low and ran crappy, did some research from this site and some reading from my manual and decided to replace it. I replaced it and now it just cranks and cranks and won't start. I've got pressure at the Schrader valve but am not sure what to do now. Do you guys have any ideas? HELP ME please!!!!! LOL

 

[dirtymike]

I would put the old one back on and see if it starts. What is the pressure at idle? WOT? bleed down test?

 

[JerrySab]

Due diligence, Double check wiring to distributor and ignition coil, confirm those weren't disturbed during swap. Same for fuel injector connections, theyre all in pretty close proximity. You may also want to check any vacuum lines that may have been left off, but I dont know if that would prevent ignition. Last, not sure if you disabled fuel pump relay while doing the work, you may need to plug it back in.

 

[NateD76]

I would put the old one back on and see if it starts. What is the pressure at idle? WOT? bleed down test?

The pressure at idle hovered around 20. The manual said 40 and listed the symptoms the truck was having and suggested replacing if those were present. I guess I can try putting the old one back on to see what it does.

 

[dirtymike]

Filter? Fuel Condition? Should run around 36-40, depending type and brand of FPR. Bleed down overnight to 20-28 and stay there for ever i recon. Never had one hold long though. Seems to go somewhere.?

 

[RonD]

Do the 50/50 test to see if the No Start is spark or fuel related

 

[NateD76]

So I swapped the old FPR back and it still won't start. Plugs are getting spark, they smell like fuel and the schrader valve has fuel to it, checked all the wiring and didn't find anything obvious out of place. Backstory is this. I bought it about a month ago for $300 ran and drove although not very good. I did the basic tune-up stuff and it got:

1. new wires and plugs old ones were melted and plugs wore out and fouled badly.
2. new cap and rotor
3. new air filter, PCV vavlve, oil and filter change and it ran a little better

Put the old tachometer (run off green wire in the engine bay) and timing light on it and tried to adjust the timing and engine idle according to what the manual said. Helped a little but not much it still had a rough idle, surging and wouldn't drive very well ie.. hesitation, stumbling,

4. new TPS, IAC valve, MAP and TPS

Those helped some but again didn't really solve the previous symptoms.

Tested the fuel pressure at the schrader vavle and it was low.

5. Today replaced old FPR with a new one. Only had to disconnect 1 vacuum line, remove two bolts, remove the old fuel hose and then remove the old FPR. I just reinstalled everything back in reverse and when finished it wouldn't start again. Just cranks and cranks. Then just swapped the old one back same thing, crank and crank no start.

I am frustrated and lost, ughhhh

 

[RonD]

And the 50/50 test?

You need to remove SPOUT connector to time the spark

With SPOUT Connected and engine at idle spark should be 20deg BTDC...... NOT 10deg BTDC, thats only with SPOUT disconnected and that could be your problem

 

[NateD76]

And the 50/50 test?

I don't know what the SPOUT means or the 50/50 test lol

 

[dirtymike]

You bought new stuff not tested stuff. A manual would be in order. One sensor at a time. The spout is the little black thing hanging around the distributor. Mine has a yellow in and a yellow out. Spout out time at 10 degrees BTDC. spout in, ECU does the timing for you.

 

[NateD76]

I did finally get it running, I had to use 2 puffs of starting fluid to get it running long enough to run under its own power again. I may check it out again tomorrow probably Monday (after mothers day!). Thanks for the tip guys I will have to revisit the timing like dirty mike suggested. I do remember unplugging something in the wiring harness (I think the manual called it a "block" not sure) and setting the timing at 10 deg BTDC. I do remember crawling underneath my vehicle to get a good look at the timing marks on my pulley and when I was cleaning them off they had different numbers but not the number 10. I do remember the TC mark and then a 12 and a bunch of tiny ticks before and after the TC and 12.

 

[dirtymike]

If you haven't thrown out the Old IAC, check ans see if it is a hitachi or a motorcraft, keep these. The old TPS, IAC valve, MAP all can be tested. Its in the manual.