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Surprises when doing tensioner and guide replacement.


19Walt93

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Modular V8's have always had the chain in the front driving both cams and we had zero problems with them until the cam phasers appeared, and changing the phasers is a tiny job compared to SOHC cam drive, especially the right side. The SHOC has 4 chains, one drives the "jack shaft", one drives the left cam, one drives the right cam at the back, and one drives the balance shaft. I've worked on air cooled VW's, Porsches, Audis, Mercedes, and BMW's, I'm firmly convinced Rube Goldberg was a German.
 


gw33gp

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Here is a nearly complete list of Ford part numbers for the job. The cassette kits include the guide, sprockets and chain. I don't now why but the front kit included the lower bolt with the O-ring but the rear one did not. I reused the rear lower bolt but replaced the O-ring. I recommend using a Viton O-ring.

I can't find the part number for the Crankshaft/Damper bolt. It is a TTY bolt and is supposed to be replaced. I could not find it online and went to my local Ford Dealer for it. They had it in stock.

You don't need to the Pan Gaskets if you don't replace the Balance Shaft Tensioner and Guide. My Engine did not have the Balance Shaft, but I replaced my Oil Pump so I still needed the Pan Gaskets.

I highly recommend replacing the Chain Tensioner and Guide for the Chain that goes from the Crankshaft to the Jackshaft. My Tensioner was totally broken off. I replaced the Chain too. I wanted to replace the Crankshaft Sprocket but the one I order and was told was correct caused a misalignment. Maybe it was for an engine with the Balance Shaft. My old Sprocket was still in good condition, so I reused it.

All these prices are from Village Ford in Michgan. The were slow in shipping but had the best prices.




Part NumberPart NamePriceQuantityTotal
4L2Z-6M290-AARear Cassette Kit - Does not include lower bolt w/O-ring$68.221$68.22
-W703167-S430Rear Jackshaft Bolt - TTY$3.451$3.45
7U3Z-6A257-AFront Cassette Kit - included lower bolt w/O-ring$67.591$67.59
7U3Z-6K254-ARear Timing Chain Tensioner$32.571$32.57
7U3Z-6K254-BFront Timing Chain Tensioner$47.271$47.27
5H2Z-6700-AAFront Cover Seal$15.231$15.23
1L2Z-6020-AATiming Cover Gasket$5.691$5.69
F77Z-6710-AAUpper Oil Pan Gasket$32.591$32.59
4L2Z-6710-AALower Pan Gasket$19.781$19.78
YL2Z-6L266-AATiming Chain Tensioner - Crankshaft to Jackshaft$25.971$25.97
1L2Z-6L266-AABalance Shaft Chain Tensioner$19.551$19.55
1L2Z-6584-AAValve Cover Gasket$19.122$38.24
FOTZ-8507-AWater Pump Gasket$9.001$9.00
1L2Z-9461-CAManifold Gasket$3.026$18.12
2L2Z-6K297-AAChain Guide - Crankshaft to Jackshaft$13.001$13.00
F77Z-6K297-BCBalance Shaft Chain Guide$12.491$12.49
F77Z-6026-ABEngine Expansion Plug - Access to Rear Jackshaft Bolt$15.321$15.32
F77Z-6268-ABTiming Chain - Crankshaft to Jackshaft$37.901$37.90
2L2Z-6279-AAFront Jackshaft Bolt - TTY$19.271$19.27
2L2Z-6306-BACrankshaft Gear - (Was not correct for my Ranger)$33.181$33.18
 

sgtsandman

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Fortunately amazon sells the specialty tool kit for the job and the prices aren’t that bad. It looks like all the kits they offer are a complete set. I’m seriously considering picking up one of those kits, just in case.
 

Jim_Philly

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Here is a nearly complete list of Ford part numbers for the job.
Thanks for sharing!!

So the harmonic balancer TTY bolt didn't come in a plastic bag from the dealer with the part # printed on it? Also, can you link to the rear lower cassette bolt o-ring that you used?
 

Jim_Philly

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Fortunately amazon sells the specialty tool kit for the job and the prices aren’t that bad. It looks like all the kits they offer are a complete set. I’m seriously considering picking up one of those kits, just in case.
The OTC version also pops up on eBay occasionally. Unfortunately I missed the end of the last auction I saw, sold for $50 shipped :(
 

sgtsandman

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gw33gp

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Thanks for sharing!!

So the harmonic balancer TTY bolt didn't come in a plastic bag from the dealer with the part # printed on it? Also, can you link to the rear lower cassette bolt o-ring that you used?
Apparently, the crank/damper bolts come in a plastic bag with multiple bolts. I was just handed a bolt with no plastic bag. The receipt did have the part number but I seem to have lost that receipt. I will continue looking for it but the possibility of finding it is very low.

I just took the lower cassette bolt to a local bearing supply to match up the O-ring. Unfortunately, the only one in stock that fit correctly was Buna-N. I felt the temperature rating of Buna-N is marginal for hot oil. The only Viton O-ring they had was either too small or too thick. I went with one that was too thick but managed to get it in with shearing only a very small sliver off at the very end of tightening. I was very careful installing and don't recommend doing that. So, far it has not shown any signs of leaking though. I think I have the size of the Buna-N O-ring that fit. I will look for that tonight and post it.
 

G8orFord

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Just the right size to touch the ground.
WTF is a harmonic balancer bolt TTY?


FWIW, I reused mine. The balancer hasn't fell off yet.
 

Jim_Philly

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They are selling OTC on amazon. I'm not sure it's the best price but compared to what they were selling for before, it isn't horrible.

I'll probably only do the job once, ever... so I'm thinking of going with the Chinese knock-off (900 "brands" but all the same product) and then sell it on Craigslist when I'm done:

 

gw33gp

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WTF is a harmonic balancer bolt TTY?


FWIW, I reused mine. The balancer hasn't fell off yet.
I was going to reuse mine because online I couldn't find one that was for sure to fit. I decided to try my local Ford dealer parts and they had one that was guarantied to fit. I had the torque specs for the TTY (torque to yield) bolt and had no information for reusing it, so I bought the new one. I am sure guessing a torque value for reusing would work but since the Ford Service Manual states it should be replaced, I felt that was the best thing to do.
 

19Walt93

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235/55R16
My credo
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If you reuse a torque to yield bolt and follow the procedure a second time the bolt is apt to break. I have no idea what's better about TTY, other than increased bolt sales. Suspension bolts are often single time use according to Ford's manuals. They come with a dab of thread locker on them and I guess we weren't deemed smart enough to put lock tite on the old bolts, or they wanted to sell more of those, too.
 

G8orFord

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Just the right size to touch the ground.
If you reuse a torque to yield bolt and follow the procedure a second time the bolt is apt to break. I have no idea what's better about TTY, other than increased bolt sales. Suspension bolts are often single time use according to Ford's manuals. They come with a dab of thread locker on them and I guess we weren't deemed smart enough to put lock tite on the old bolts, or they wanted to sell more of those, too.
Yeah, that's kinda my point. The balancer is a friction fit to begin with, it doesn't need a TTY bolt to hold it in place. FWIW, I did not follow the standard TTY specs. I just tightened the bolt.
 

Jim_Philly

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gw33gp

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Yes, a TTY bolt has already been stretched on the first use. Using the TTY torque specs a second time would have a high risk of breaking. I was planning to use a torque level used near a bolt that size along with some Loctite for the second use. I too don't understand why a TTY bolt is used for that application.

TTY bolts are normally used in a high fatigue application. Stretching the bolt a certain amount improves fatigue life a lot. The aircraft industry typically measures elongation instead of torque to get the maximum fatigue life. It is more precise than torque or TTY. As G8 said, this is a friction fit application and the bolt should not experience fatigue. However, I am not going to argue with Ford engineers and when I found the right bolt I used it.
 

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