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Superlift steering repair


351crownvic

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When the superlift steering parts wear, like the centerlink and the bushing in the idler arm, what do u do about replacing them???

Do u have to purchace a new centerlink or is that joint replaceable.

Is there a common bushing that is avalable in most stores to replace the bushing in the idler arm??
 


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wizkid00104

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I found this on Superlift's website: http://www.superlift.com/accessories/superunner.asp

Click the tab that says "application guide."

FORD TTB SUPERUNNER STEERING
APPLICATION YEAR LIFT RANGE PART NO.
BRONCO, F-150 2WD / 4WD 1980-96 4-6" 1024
F-250 4WD 1980-85 4-6" (BUILT ON OR BEFORE 1/31/85) 1054
1985-97 4-6" (BUILT ON OR BEFORE 2/1/85) 1074
RANGER, BRONCO II, EXPLORER 4WD 1983-97 4-6" 1134
RANGER 2WD 1983-97 4-6" 1234

REPLACEMENT TIE ROD ENDS / BUSHINGS PASSENGER SIDE DRIVER SIDE
APPLICATION INNER OUTER INNER OUTER
80-96 F-150 / BRONCO 2WD & 4WD SUPERUNNER STEERING, 1024 12-1024 06-1024 11-1024 07-1024
80-85 F-250 4WD SUPERUNNER STEERING (MADE ON OR BEFORE 1-31-85) 12-1024 06-1054 13-1054 06-1054
85-97 F-250 4WD SUPERUNNER STEERING (MADE ON OR AFTER 2-1-85) 12-1024 06-1064 11-1024 06-1064
83-97 RANGER 2WD & 4WD SUPERUNNER STEERING 12-1124 06-1024 11-1024 07-1024
IDLER ARM BUSHING KIT FOR ALL APPLICATIONS 1029
 

351crownvic

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If that centerlink joint wears out, its a non replaceable item..... That extreme drop arm might be the better answer....
 

wizkid00104

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If that centerlink joint wears out, its a non replaceable item..... That extreme drop arm might be the better answer....
Why not just make a new center link? I would think anything is better than an extreme drop pitman arm.
 

351crownvic

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I thought about that too, just cutting off the old joint and welding on a new one. But i don't know if I like moding such a critical part. Its my DD so i would need to be able to repair it ASAP.

In my opnion they sould make that centerlink joint replaceable.. Like a press in joint. AKA balljoint...

Then i wouldn't have any concerns about the kit..
 

mjonesjr

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Someone, I can't remember who, did modify their center link to use a ball joint. They cut the factory joint off and tapped the tubing and put on a jam nut.
 

wizkid00104

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You could get a short piece of dom tubing that fits snug over the current tube size and thread the inside of the other end to accept a standard ranger outer tierod end. Preassemble that and then when the time comes t change it, cutthe old end off and weld the new on. YOu would have to be very accurate because the threaded tierod end will allow for fine center adjustment. I just think you willbe displeasedwith going from super runner to standad with a super long pitman arm.
 

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Someone, I can't remember who, did modify their center link to use a ball joint. They cut the factory joint off and tapped the tubing and put on a jam nut.
:D



Regular RH outer TRE for the D35. It's an M22 thread I believe.

Enough meat on the tube itself to run the tap into it without extra drilling.
 
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mjonesjr

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:D



Regular RH outer TRE for the D35. It's an M22 thread I believe.

Enough meat on the tube itself to run the tap into it without extra drilling.
Well there you go!
 

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It's also not that big of a deal to simply cut the weld out on the old one and weld a new TRE into the end of the tube (after all, that's exactly what Superlift did... just make sure you don't overheat the TRE while welding it). Of course welding a new one in is not as elegant as what's shown above :D

M22 x 1.5 is the thread size for the passengerside TRE.
 

351crownvic

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I don't have the super runner steering. I was looking into purchasing either the extreem drop arm or the super runner steering. While making my decision i thought I had better look into the part replacment involved if that centerlink joint wears out.

These are all excelent ideas. I like CopyKat's tap and jam nut. That makes the end replacment quick and easy.

I am runninga 6in lift. If i do decide on the super runner steering, I need the standard drop arm correct?
 
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4x4junkie

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The steering kit needs a standard drop arm, correct (Superlift's arm, or the Skyjacker FA400 arm).

With 6" of lift however, you'll want to modify the centerlink to drop it down another 2-3" from where it is, as it's design is not well suited above 4" lift (contrary to what Superlift says).
After modification, the steering performance should well exceed that of the FA600 "extreme" drop pitman arm, but not beforehand.
 

351crownvic

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I read about dropping down the inner tie rod mounts and reinforcing the idler arm. So i think for the time being i will just deal with the basic drop pitman arm untill the funds become avaliable for the steering.

The reason i had to get a new pitman arm is I changed the steering box a while ago and the pitman arm nut worked its self loose. Now no mater how much you tighten it it still wobbles up and down under a little stress.

What did the m22 x1.5 tap cost and where did u find it?
 

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Regular RH outer TRE for the D35. It's an M22 thread I believe.

Enough meat on the tube itself to run the tap into it without extra drilling.
Why so blurry?
 


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