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Subject: Stuck Parking Brake - What can I try?

EricJRW

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Hi Everybody, new here. Just learned my Mazda has some Ford Ranger DNA, or is it the other way around?

Anyway, only one p-brake "cable" seems to be stuck. When I look where they split, essentially under the driver, and wife tugs on the handle, I can see one cable (to left rear wheel) won't move. The other is trying. Everything looks sealed up pretty good. I squirted WD-40 in the little boot after the T (where cables go their own way).

Took left rear drum off, and I'm not really seeing what the cable connects too. Maybe the shoes need to come off?

Are there things I can try?

Any help appreciated.

Thank you, Eric

PS. Need to work on a sig, but this a 1991 Mazda B2600i with over 250,000 miles. Been in the family since my Dad bought it NEW.
 


Josh B

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The cable's likely stuck, the wd-40 may get into it, but then it will need greased. You might a working one at a wrecking yard, possibly even find one new.

Just look straight ahead of where the line points inside the drum, it hooks onto a lever there attached into the braking mechanism

That's just a short, quick answer, you'll likely get better and more detailed ones in time
 

RonD

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Diagram here: https://www.justanswer.com/uploads/fordanswerman/2006-12-27_163535_1992__ranger.gif

At the bottom you can see the parking brake cable coming in thru the back plate, its cable will have a coil spring on it so doesn't look like a cable
You will need to disassemble to get to the end of the cable to either remove and replace or try to get it unstuck, but..................if its rusted inside the sheath now, which is most likely, then it will just continue to rust even if you can get it
loose now

If its below freezing outside Parking brake cables that have water inside the sheath can freeze and prevent cable from moving, this can be a REAL PROBLEM if you set the brake at night then it won't release in the morning, lol.
Get out the hair dryer or heat gun and lay on the COLD Ground for 10 minutes, that will wake you up
 
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alwaysFlOoReD

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Yes, a new cable is in order. And you will have to remove the shoes to replace it.
 

EricJRW

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Just wanted to say a quick thank you to all. Not below freezing, yet. Guess I'm going to have to get my hands dirtier.
 

RonD

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I would get another cable first, and leave it in the bag or ???
Then do the disassembly, you will most likely need to use it, but if not you can always return it, its not an electronic part
 

EricJRW

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I would get another cable first, and leave it in the bag or ???
Then do the disassembly, you will most likely need to use it, but if not you can always return it, its not an electronic part
Great idea!
 

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RobbieD

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A 1991 Mazda B pickup won't be a rebadged Ranger (that started in '94). But, the rear drum brakes basic design and layout "should" be very similar between Ford and Mazda; so all of what's been advised above is good. That being said, welcome to the site, and post back with any questions or for advice. A '91 Mazda B truck is close enough to be an honorary Ranger : )
 

EricJRW

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Hi, one more quick question. Who do you all like for parts? Does one online place stand out for best price?

Looking at Rock Auto now, and prices seem decent compared to local, or even eBay.

Thanks, Eric
 

ericbphoto

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I do a lot of shopping at Rock Auto. But always check pricing first. Also, try to group all your Rock Auto purchases from the same warehouse so you don’t have to pay for shipping from multiple locations
 

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Like ericbphoto says, when shopping Rock always check the shipping charges for the real total. Multiple warehouse shipping charges can be a deal-breaker. I still use Rock for a lot of parts, but if their price is only a couple of bucks less on some things, I'll use the local independent ("mom and pop") parts store. In my case, the service that the local store gives is well worth it.
 

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