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stupid vibration


jerkyboyxiii

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The Ranger developed a vibration at 20+ mph. It is bad in 2wd, horrible in 4hi, and even worse in 4lo. Tires are brand new and balanced. Alignment is new and dead on. Everything is tight. Im wondering if the torsion lift keys and torsion lift is making the front axles bind. Thoughts?
 


franklin2

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Vibrtions are usually u-joints. They usually rust and freeze up and then eventually fall apart. I would block the tires so the truck will not roll, and then take and put the trans in neutral. Then crawl under there and twist and pull on the drivehafts while looking for play. Look for red rust traces also, a sign it's locked up and getting ready to go.
 

jerkyboyxiii

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thanx, frank. i will start there...

One thing i didnt mention: the vibration is more noticeable when turning.
 

pjtoledo

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start with the CV joints on the half shafts, and the front driveshaft.
 

jerkyboyxiii

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It's in the shop now and being fixed correctly. The half shafts were binding up bc the t bars were cranked (not maxed out).I have Rough country lifts on three other trucks of mine, but they specifically say 17" wheels are required. I just dropped money on new 285-75-16s. I'm hoping my 2" spacers will put enough distance between the wheel and knuckle. The SuperLift is almost twice the expense, but will be cheaper than going with new wheels n tires. The third option is to drop the t bar crank down, remove the rear drop shackles, and replace the front fenders with pre-runner aftermarkets.
 

franklin2

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Have you read the article in the link below? The front suspension with a-arms are called "short arm, long arm" suspensions. As you go around a corner, the suspension kicks out the bottom of the outside tire to help go around corners. Problem is, you raise or lower the suspension, the tires kick out permanently giving you awful tire wear. So you need an alignment each time you change the ride height. Sometimes if you go too far, the shop will not be able get it back in alignment.

 

jerkyboyxiii

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Good article, frank. Thank you. Im just gunna be happy to have it finally done. Fortunately, i only put about 20 miles on the new tires, six of which were at about 30 mph.
 

jerkyboyxiii

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To add: I have read that article in the past. Additionally, i did not sdjust the t bars, i omly installed the aftermarket keys. The alignment shop twisted the t bars.
 

dvdswan

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My credo
Keep your mind like an umbrella, it only works if its open... Continually learning.
Did you go play in the mud with the new tires? You might have a clump on the inside of the rim.
 

jerkyboyxiii

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Ha! Nope, swan. I havent done anything other than drive around my neighborhood and on a few main roads.
 

BiggSherm1988

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It's in the shop now and being fixed correctly. The half shafts were binding up bc the t bars were cranked (not maxed out).I have Rough country lifts on three other trucks of mine, but they specifically say 17" wheels are required. I just dropped money on new 285-75-16s. I'm hoping my 2" spacers will put enough distance between the wheel and knuckle. The SuperLift is almost twice the expense, but will be cheaper than going with new wheels n tires. The third option is to drop the t bar crank down, remove the rear drop shackles, and replace the front fenders with pre-runner aftermarkets.
im looking to use this lift. did the 16s fit or dit it need the spacers?
 

Josh B

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Will you bring it back from Germany? :)
I was about 16 in 1971, working at a Billups gas station in Mississippi. This 56/57 Chevy pulled in and said fill it. I grabbed the gas handle and began looking for the spout, noticed it had Hawaii tags. After a bit the guy came around and flipped the left fin on a tail light open and there it was.
He said he'd been stationed in Hawaii and they shipped it home for him
 

jerkyboyxiii

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The lift allowed the oe wheels (16” five spoke) to be used w no issues. My front rotors (i have a rear disc conversion) cleared the upgraded (12”?) rotors too. The shop that installed everything would not install the spacers. I installed the spacers after a 500 mi shakedown n retorque. Def looks better w spacers to enhance the 285-75-16 tires:)
 

BiggSherm1988

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Total Drop
not for me
The lift allowed the oe wheels (16” five spoke) to be used w no issues. My front rotors (i have a rear disc conversion) cleared the upgraded (12”?) rotors too. The shop that installed everything would not install the spacers. I installed the spacers after a 500 mi shakedown n retorque. Def looks better w spacers to enhance the 285-75-16 tires:)
So to confirm, you have a rough country 5 inch lift and ran 16inch wheels? I'm getting conflicting info from so many people that I started a thread asking this question lol. I just really don't want to buy new wheels.
 

BiggSherm1988

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Total Drop
not for me
Will you bring it back from Germany? :)
I was about 16 in 1971, working at a Billups gas station in Mississippi. This 56/57 Chevy pulled in and said fill it. I grabbed the gas handle and began looking for the spout, noticed it had Hawaii tags. After a bit the guy came around and flipped the left fin on a tail light open and there it was.
He said he'd been stationed in Hawaii and they shipped it home for him
I will not be shipping it back. I'm a reservist now and I live full time in Germany.
 

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