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Stumble in Idle on 3.0 Vulcan

mc17eln

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@Blitz Do you have FORScan? I would like to know if you too have a low misfire count.
 


Blitz

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Well if anyone has been following my problem here is an update. My truck still has a stumble when idling but some times its almost non existent and other times its pretty annoying. I can't really create a condition to cause either. It threw the check engine light on this week so today I will head over to my Dad's heated garage and throw the scanner on it. Its currently 8F in Cincinnati. Hopefully this code will take me in the right direction. Just incase you are interested here is what I replaced in the last 4,000 miles to try to fix rough Idle. All parts were OEM from Ford dealer
Replace spark plug wires (Old one were original so 20 years old)
Spark Plugs (OEM plugs from dealer and when I replaced them I found the ones in the truck were new but I replaced them anyway)
Replace Coil Pack (This made a big difference in power) It had 4 cracks in it which 3 were on the bottom
Replace Cam Phaser (This got rid of the squeak that sounded like a belt)
New Oil Pressure switch (Dealer recommended this to fix crazy oil pressure readings)
Fuel system cleaner (2 cans) (contained PEA)
Replace PCV valve (this made a huge difference and was hoping was the smoking gun. The 90 deg hose that goes to this was completely collapsed so I replaced it as well.
engine fuel injector/throttle body cleaner service (My mechanic did this and made a pretty big difference)
Replace Air cleaner filter
New IAC valve (Improved idle a little
New Gas cap This was first attempt to clear P0442 code and did not work
 

Blitz

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So We ran the OBD scanner is this is the freeze frame data when the CEL came on. Can anyone tell me if any of this data is suspect?




71222
 

RonD

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All shown data looks fine

EVAP codes won't effect engine performance, worst case would be slightly higher idle from vacuum leak between EVAP Solenoid and engine's vacuum port for that solenoid
 

Blitz

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All shown data looks fine

EVAP codes won't effect engine performance, worst case would be slightly higher idle from vacuum leak between EVAP Solenoid and engine's vacuum port for that solenoid
Ron:
Thanks for the response. I have bought a new EVAP Solenoid and will swap it out when it warms up. By the way I cleared the code on Sunday and the check engine light has not re-appeared yet. The first time it lit up I replaced the gas cap and cleared the code and it disappeared for a few weeks. I and guessing this solenoid is sticking open a little sometimes. Just a guess
 

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Just an update on whoever is interested. I replaced the Vapor canister purge valve and found what was causing it to stick open. The vent hose feeding it was in bad shape. Ford does not make this hose anymore so I got one from a pull and pay. So far its has been a couple weeks and no check engine light yet. I read in other forums that if your A/C system is low on Freon it will cause a rough idle so I had my mechanic check my system and was pretty low (- 1.0lb) it does idle a little better and I would almost say pretty good. Next thing I am going to do is clean the MAF sensor and intake temperature sensor. Looking back that should of been one of the first things I should of done. I will let you know.

72891
 

Blitz

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@Blitz Do you have FORScan? I would like to know if you too have a low misfire count.
[/QUOTE
I do have an update. I put a vacuum gauge on the intake and its running at 15Hg on idle but the needle is smooth. I stick the vacuum gauge on my Dads ranger and it idles at 20Hg and smooth. I know little about low vacuum troubleshooting but is this truck is out of time? It only has 85,000 miles so I am guessing the engine is not wore out? Any help on this one?
 

Blitz

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Just an update on whoever is interested. I replaced the Vapor canister purge valve and found what was causing it to stick open. The vent hose feeding it was in bad shape. Ford does not make this hose anymore so I got one from a pull and pay. So far its has been a couple weeks and no check engine light yet. I read in other forums that if your A/C system is low on Freon it will cause a rough idle so I had my mechanic check my system and was pretty low (- 1.0lb) it does idle a little better and I would almost say pretty good. Next thing I am going to do is clean the MAF sensor and intake temperature sensor. Looking back that should of been one of the first things I should of done. I will let you know.

View attachment 72891
MAF sensor was fine. My check engine light is still lighting up every couple weeks for small evap leak.
 

Blitz

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To those who have been following I found the cause of the PO442 code (small EVAP leak) My mechanic told me where to look. I love this guy he is so honest. I took my bed off and there it was. The filler nozzle vent tube has a hole in it. You can see in the picture that the vent has a gas stain on it. My check engine light has not come on again.
75474


75475
 

mc17eln

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@Blitz You fixed the Vapor canister purge valve and hose in February and now the EVAP leak. Is your engine idling smooth or still "stumbles" every now and then?
 

fixizin

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REPLACED the filler nozzle vent tube assembly?... or PATCHED it, if so, HOW? Thanks in advance...
 

Blitz

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@Blitz You fixed the Vapor canister purge valve and hose in February and now the EVAP leak. Is your engine idling smooth or still "stumbles" every now and then?
OK I see some people are interested in this so here is the latest update. Since this is my daily driver and I had the bed off I tried to patch this hole with RTV. It worked for first few week but when my Ranger sat at airport for 2 weeks the light came back on as soon as I hit the highway on way home. I bought a new filler neck and hose from Rock Auto and will install it as soon as I get a break from work. This is only to fix the check engine light not the stumble in the idle which is still there. As far as the stumble goes my next task is to get my fuel injectors cleaned and rebuilt. I will let you know if this helps anything.
 

Blitz

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REPLACED the filler nozzle vent tube assembly?... or PATCHED it, if so, HOW? Thanks in advance...
My patch did not work because hole was in a tough spot. Rock Auto has the filler assembly and hose.
 

Blitz

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Yes I ended up replacing the filler assembly with a new one because my check engine light came back on with code PO442. It came on again after that replacement so I replaced the Canister purge valve and my light just came on again. The funny thing is that the truck has to sit a couple days in order for the light to come on. If I drive it everyday it will last several weeks before it comes on but every time it sits a couple days it for sure comes on in the first 10 minutes of my trip. I am tired of part swapping its time to take it to the shop and make it their problem. I think the only thing left could be a leaking line from the back to the front or a pressure switch or a hole in the vapor canister. Time to smoke it out.
 

Blitz

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Well I had it smoked and found the leak and check engine light has not been on for a month now so far. It was below the purge valve where the rubber hose transitions to the metal pipe. So all told I had 3 different leaks. The check engine light came on as soon as I replaced the gauge cluster so guessing one of the owners must of put in a burnt out light bulb on the CEL socket :) All good now.
 

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