Stuck T-case fill plug :(

[mr_manny]

Just going through my new to me Bronco II, and came across an uncooperative fill plug
Good thing I didn't drain before checking

Any tips on getting this sucker loose?
Thanks

 

[Uncle Gump]

Dissimilar metals corrode together. I would start by soaking it down with penetrant. Tap it a few times with a small ball pien hammer... try to loosen. Repeat...

 

[mr_manny]

Found this possible solution, will give it a try.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

If you can get a hammer swing in there... Use a cold chisel on the outer face and start tapping fairly hard. Eventually it will start to move.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Found this possible solution, will give it a try.

I like this too.

 

[mr_manny]

What a pain in the A**
Tried the bolt method, mentioned in the video above.
Fill plug was not letting go, only ended up deforming further.
I ended up drilling a hole, and tried removing the fill plug via an ez-out...no luck.

Since I already had a hole, I taped it and now have a new fill bolt

So glad this is done...just in time to cook dinner

 

[SenorNoob]

Nice. There is usually another way.

 

[Jazzer]

Might want to file that boss flatter and don't forget a crush washer.

Nice thinking outside the box!

 

[mr_manny]

All ready using a crush washer, but good idea on prepping the surface to be more bolt/washer friendly.

Game plan is to eventually replace the Differentials, Trans, and tcase from an explorer down the road.
Already got the green light from the wife

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

They actually make a socket that fits that hole better than a socket extension too, it can really help prevent deformation if they want to be ornery.

 

[mr_manny]

I was surprised how stuck the fill plug was...just did not want to budge.

I tried:
Large Steel Bolt, profiled to fit the plug tightly.
Chisel & BFH.
Heat around around the fill-plug.
Vice Grips, unfortunately not enough shoulder to bite onto.
Drilled hole for ez-out.
Didn't want to risk breaking it, but a larger ez-out might have worked (largest I own is around 5/16th).

Even though I wasn't able to get the fill plug out, I'm pleased with the solution.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I was surprised how stuck the fill plug was...just did not want to budge.

I tried:
Large Steel Bolt, profiled to fit the plug tightly.
Chisel & BFH.
Heat around around the fill-plug.
Vice Grips, unfortunately not enough shoulder to bite onto.
Drilled hole for ez-out.
Didn't want to risk breaking it, but a larger ez-out might have worked (largest I own is around 5/16th).

Even though I wasn't able to get the fill plug out, I'm pleased with the solution.

Just food for thought next time one fights ya, I deal with a lot of old plugs and the regular socket really helps.

Once you start to waller out the hole it goes downhill quick.

 

[scotts90ranger]

All ready using a crush washer, but good idea on prepping the surface to be more bolt/washer friendly.

Game plan is to eventually replace the Differentials, Trans, and tcase from an explorer down the road.
Already got the green light from the wife

Before you get too crazy swapping parts do you know if you have a 1350 or 1354 T case now? The easy way to tell is if the front driveline is one piece and the slip spline is at the front of the transfer case, '90 is a split year with some having the more desired 1354 and others with the older 1350... same with the front diff, if the pumpkin has 12 bolts it's a Dana 28 and 10 bolts it's a Dana 35...

I'm pretty sure you tried too hard before you added heat, like 85 said it goes downhill fast with those, the on on the rear axle of my F350 is completely screwed but I can fill it through the speed sensor hole that and last time I was in there I added a fill plug to the diff cover...

 

[mr_manny]

Your probably right, regarding going to hard initially...

Front drive shaft is a slip spline at the tcase.
Good info. on the 28 vs 35, will check when I get back.
Thanks for the Tip.

 

[scotts90ranger]

If you have a slip spline at the T case then you will have a D28 unless someone swapped it before you...

Swapping the T case and front axle can start a worm hole on a 2.9L powered RBV since they used so many dang transmissions which were almost all different lengths which changed the front driveline length... that said if you happen to have one of the unicorn early ones with an M5OD the front driveline from a '91-94 explorer or later TTB ranger with a 1354 and D35 will work... The D35 needs an inch shorter front driveline so worst case you can get one shortened...