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sticky gas pedal

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gas pedal sticks, only at idle. because the throttle sticks on the idle screw. does that when cold. does not do it with a warm engine.

I know that's it because I opened the hood, removed the plastic cover off the throttle, looked at it, twiddled it around with my fingers and saw for myself. that is the problem.

dab of grease has no effect whatsoever. just as sticky as before.

I did cut a rectangular piece of tin can and wrap it around the throttle arm that rests on the idle screw. that does work for a temporary fix but I have to replace it every once in a while because it gets just as sticky as the bare metal.

it's like the idle screw makes a little divet in the metal and sticks in the hole.

I do not want to adjust the idle screw because a) it idles perfect where it's at and b) at only a slightly different angle I'm sure it will do the same thing all over again after a short time.

anybody know how to fix this?
 


Mark_88

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Need a bit more information.

What year is the truck?
Is it Fuel Injected or does it have a carburetor? (the year might indicate that if after 1988 and if the engine is original).
Is there any slack in the cable and did you try the cable modification to take out the slack?

Just an FYI, there is no actual adjustment recommended on the screw on the FI models that I'm aware of and there should be a warning embossed on any model that is not meant to be adjusted.
 

Mark_88

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OK, so fuel injected and the screw is not to be adjusted.

Does it have a burl or something on the end that may be gouging into the manifold/throttle body and causing it to catch?

If not you may want to check local wreckers for a replacement or at least look at one that doesn't stick and see if there is something noticeable on yours from that perspective.

I've had carburetors stick for similar reasons but they are not the same animals. My 96 never encountered those problems so it's not on my radar...maybe someone else has seen this and can help more.
 

tomw

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The 'hard stop' idle screw is not supposed to be adjusted, or rather there should not be the need to adjust the stop. Reason that the adjustment is un-necessary is that the IAC is supposed to control idle rpm. The stop is to allow the throttle plate to close almost all the way without running into the bore and possibly doing damage. It also makes the engine running-on after the key is turned to OFF unlikely. The rpm developed without the IAC should be too low to be acceptable, and the engine should die when the IAC is de-energized.
If I were you, I'd be checking the IAC for being gummy, plugged, or non-functional. The IAC should raise the idle speed when the engine is first started from cold, and when the A/C is engaged. If you do not have a 'fast cold idle', at least for 30 seconds or a minute after cold start, likely your IAC is not working.
tom
 

Mark_88

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Something else I just thought of...the actual throttle plate in the Throttle Body may be the problem. There is a pivot point in the middle that might need a bit of cleaning or there might be some buildup of that crusty stuff that aluminum gets coated with that is preventing it from opening properly. A small shot of PB Blaster or other penetrating oil on the pivot point might help as well as running a sheet of sandpaper over the inside of the opening.
 
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there is no burl on the end of the adjustment screw; I checked for that. it's smooth. problem seems to be caused entirely by a dent in the metal which the idle screw creates, then sticks in it. like a little notch.

the problem isn't caused by anything internal to the throttle body, because when I put a piece of tin can wrapped around the arm (which stops on the idle screw), the problem goes away. until the idle screw wears another dent in the metal.

has nothing to do with the IAC either. I know what you're talking about, it did conk out in the past and had exactly the symptoms you describe before it was replaced, but that was a low idle issue, not sticky gas pedal. I don't see how that could make the gas pedal stick anyways. it operates independently.
 

Mark_88

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OK, good that pretty much eliminates everything that might be contributing to the sticking. I've never seen that so it's new and one for the books and I've been reading posts on these engines for 18 years.

Do you have any wreckers in your area that you can score another throttle body? I would just try changing it out. unless you know someone who can weld aluminum or you affix the sheet metal under the screw better. Maybe some self tapping screws or some gorilla glue.

Shouldn't be too hard to fix it more permanently...
 

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I had this problem on a couple different Rangers. I did adjust the throttle stop screw and it did not effect idle. It just stopped the sticking when the engine was cold. I think the screw is there to keep the throttle plate form closing too much and sticking. You should not adjust it very much. Just tweak it a little until it stops sticking. I turned it so little that it took a couple adjustments to totally eliminate the sticking.
 
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well if the screw has little effect, what I might try is to back off the screw, put a cap nut on it (big and round) then re-adjust so the throttle plate rests where it did before, but on the cap nut.

will let you know how that goes.
 

tomw

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You might try something like the tip in the non-pointy end of a Bic pen. There is a cap installed to prevent leakage if the pen is upside down. (Ha. They still leak) If you could fit it over the tip of the idle stop screw, you may eliminate your sticking problem.
tom
 

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