Steering thoughts


94sport

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So I have some bump steer, not much but a bit and am debating keeping my TTB instead of putting the Dana 44 I have in. or at least for a while seeing as my TTB does everything I need it too.
my current steering (FA600 pitman arm):


I'm thinking about trying the super runner steering. but my questions is could I use offset TRE's to drop the centerlink down another inch? any thoughts? the bump steer is negligible and I think the stock steering is stronger over the stock super runner, I am thinking about introducing a spartan locker to the front of my explorer. but I'm not sure I want the extra wear to my steering components if they aren't up to the task.

I'm open to modifying the superlift setup a bit, anyone tried the James duff stone-crusher steering? I thought about measuring and ordering some, about the same price as superlift, but here in Montana we have road salt and dirt and I am not sure about the durability of heims. Any thoughts about doing a stonecrusher setup with a freddilink from EMF It would be easy enought just chevrolet TRE's and some DOM strong and very simple to build. @4x4junkie @BlackBII
 


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swynx

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i was actually looking at some old threads the other day, looking into changing the oem steering. i have an fa400 arm, and my link is also completely flat, but with a rebuilt steering box. my bumpsteer is next to none, but i still want to upgrade.

i remember way back when that bobby walter used i believe jeep zj links, and then i also saw that brinker88 used basicly the same style, but used dom or whatever.

also for what its worth, i have an aussie in the front, i cant turn the wheels unless im rolling, my power steering pump is a 300k mile unit tho. if you actually want to go places offroad, lock the front and dont look back.
 

94sport

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i was actually looking at some old threads the other day, looking into changing the oem steering. i have an fa400 arm, and my link is also completely flat, but with a rebuilt steering box. my bumpsteer is next to none, but i still want to upgrade.

i remember way back when that bobby walter used i believe jeep zj links, and then i also saw that brinker88 used basicly the same style, but used dom or whatever.

also for what its worth, i have an aussie in the front, i cant turn the wheels unless im rolling, my power steering pump is a 300k mile unit tho. if you actually want to go places offroad, lock the front and dont look back.
was just trying to find an easy method of correcting steering, I too think I want to keep my TTB but have yet to fully decide what my next option is, I mostly snow wheel so I'm thinking about the option of 37's
 

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was just trying to find an easy method of correcting steering, I too think I want to keep my TTB but have yet to fully decide what my next option is, I mostly snow wheel so I'm thinking about the option of 37's
i also mostly snow wheel, used to do the mud thing, but tired of ****ing shit up, and dirt falling in my face. now days i prefer clean paint.

my opinion is that 37s will last on a ttb if you take care of your bearings, and while wheeling if you lift when you need to. ive seen 37s crawl over stuff that 35s had issues with. but for what its worth the ttb is a ground clearance hog. from research ive done, a ttb and a dana 60 both on 37s will have about the same clearance under the pumpkin.

but also 37s will mangle the stock steering that we both have. which wont be a pleasent experience. i had also looked into the super runner, but its expensive and not perfect.

if you look here youll see what brinker did. it looks simple and effective. its a modified stonecrusher setup. which makes we wanna go to the pull and save and get a grand cherokee setup to try out, as far as i know in the jeep world thats "1 ton" steering.

https://www.google.com/search?q=brinker88&safe=off&client=firefox-b-1-ab&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjozJ3OrPbfAhXIs1QKHcEiDZYQ_AUIECgD&biw=1920&bih=966#imgrc=DgVXFeoF8F9CSM:
 
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94sport

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i also mostly snow wheel, used to do the mud thing, but tired of ****ing shit up, and dirt falling in my face. now days i prefer clean paint.

my opinion is that 37s will last on a ttb if you take care of your bearings, and while wheeling if you lift when you need to. ive seen 37s crawl over stuff that 35s had issues with. but for what its worth the ttb is a ground clearance hog. from research ive done, a ttb and a dana 60 both on 37s will have about the same clearance under the pumpkin.

but also 37s will mangle the stock steering that we both have. which wont be a pleasent experience. i had also looked into the super runner, but its expensive and not perfect.

if you look here youll see what brinker did. it looks simple and effective. its a modified stonecrusher setup. which makes we wanna go to the pull and save and get a grand cherokee setup to try out, as far as i know in the jeep world thats "1 ton" steering.

https://www.google.com/search?q=brinker88&safe=off&client=firefox-b-1-ab&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjozJ3OrPbfAhXIs1QKHcEiDZYQ_AUIECgD&biw=1920&bih=966#imgrc=DgVXFeoF8F9CSM:
yeah the clearance thing really bugs me, my toyota buddies just crush through everything although they are on 40's and have significantly more gearing. but last time I went I felt that i would do compareable if i had some 36x13.50 iroks and a front locker. but I need to wheel and test my TTB more before making that decision as I havent had a whole lot of tire wear problems yet(knock on wood) mostly just trying to plan my next steps,I have a solid dana 44 already, but unless my TTB starts failing or gets challenged I dont see it necessary to upgrade, that and im in college haha almost done. but back on topic I like stonecrusher but like the idea of using the TRE at the center just to make it easy to always have spares and i figure it could be pretty cheap, just chevy TRES fredilink and some tubing and bungs and you're set.
 

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I did a red neck posi by adding a extra shim to the side gears on a d-28. It's a cheap way to find out if you like posi.
 

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the 40s definitely help. last year i ran 36x12.50 tsl and did great snow wheeling locked up with the ttb.

i love my ttb setup, the long arms and soft coils make it ride far better than any solid axle rig ive been in, and it still wheels great. even tho the thing is a plow, it gets along just as well as any solid axle rig. alot of people junk there ttb setups, but im just going to throw mine into a najavo when i go d60.

go jump and race a soft suspension ttb truck, then do the same in a leaf sprung toyota... the yotas ride like garbage, and have 0 power.
 

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the 40s definitely help. last year i ran 36x12.50 tsl and did great snow wheeling locked up with the ttb.

i love my ttb setup, the long arms and soft coils make it ride far better than any solid axle rig ive been in, and it still wheels great. even tho the thing is a plow, it gets along just as well as any solid axle rig. alot of people junk there ttb setups, but im just going to throw mine into a najavo when i go d60.

go jump and race a soft suspension ttb truck, then do the same in a leaf sprung toyota... the yotas ride like garbage, and have 0 power.
Yeah I've been thinking if I'm going to do the work of SAS I might as well get a 60 but I do have the 44 lying around, But its hard for me to want to regear it when I barely regeared my d35 and 8.8 less than 6 months ago, I figure I better at least get my moneys worth. but I have a feeling I could be pretty content with 36inch iroks and locked in the front... probably just get an aussie anyway, I don't want to reset the front.
 

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1.25" .120 wall DOM and Chevy '1 ton' tie rod ends are what I used and it worked great. I used the offset tie rod ends to get an extra inch of drop but I also made my own center link and idler arm. I haven't noticed any bump steer, but I also have electric power steering and a 24:1 steering box which may change things a bit.

The super runner kit would work well with the center link dropped an inch or two. As long as the steering links and axle beams move on the same arc you should get very little bump steer.

Have you looked into the swing style setups as well? A bit more work, but it's the best solution.
 

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1.25" .120 wall DOM and Chevy '1 ton' tie rod ends are what I used and it worked great. I used the offset tie rod ends to get an extra inch of drop but I also made my own center link and idler arm. I haven't noticed any bump steer, but I also have electric power steering and a 24:1 steering box which may change things a bit.

The super runner kit would work well with the center link dropped an inch or two. As long as the steering links and axle beams move on the same arc you should get very little bump steer.

Have you looked into the swing style setups as well? A bit more work, but it's the best solution.
yeah I've been looking at a lot of options, I feel bad buying the superrunner only to change things, like use some offset TRE's and make the one rod end for the pitman arm a 1 ton and replaceable. Stonecrusher Interests me and I've seen a lot of guys do it I just figured the Fredilink was a product that I haven't seen a lot of when it comes to custom RBV steering. my steering now is okay, drifts a little and has dead spots and some minor bumpsteer I just figured that its an area on my vehicle that is neglected in comparison to the rest of the suspension and axles.
 

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Have you adjusted the steering box at all? You can tighten it up a bit with the screw and locknut on the top. Just don't go too tight as it'll wear faster. Also to state the obvious, make sure you don't have any play in any of the tie rod ends. Do you have a pic of the Fredilink? I haven't heard of it
 

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Yeah I've been thinking if I'm going to do the work of SAS I might as well get a 60 but I do have the 44 lying around, But its hard for me to want to regear it when I barely regeared my d35 and 8.8 less than 6 months ago, I figure I better at least get my moneys worth. but I have a feeling I could be pretty content with 36inch iroks and locked in the front... probably just get an aussie anyway, I don't want to reset the front.
i think a 44 is a great replacement for a dana 35 if you dont want to put in the time, or if your only in the rocks. but its just as much work as a 60, slightly cheaper. the 44 and a the 35 use the same size u joint. so im not sure that theres much for extra strength, unless you invest serious $$$ but then youll be at or near the cost of a 60. i can get a 05+ with 3.73 gears for 450, those things are beef.

since you regeared and you mostly snow wheel, id say roll roll with the d35, you dont really require flex, if you ever do then acquire some long arms and eb springs. the locker will take care of the rest.

as far as the aussie locker. i highly recommend one. seen tons of friends buy the spartan, or lockright only to get a few wheeling seasons out of it. ive had my aussie for 6 years without an issue. its made with american steel. idk if the new style is available for the dana 35, but its even more beef than before and guys are abusing the hell out of them
 

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I'll second the Aussie locker. Have had one in my Dana 35 for years. Never had an issue with it. It locks and unlocks like it should. The lock right in the rear however... That thing is retarded, at least on the street. It clunks and locks and unlocks whenever it feels like it. Off road it works great.
 

94sport

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Have you adjusted the steering box at all? You can tighten it up a bit with the screw and locknut on the top. Just don't go too tight as it'll wear faster. Also to state the obvious, make sure you don't have any play in any of the tie rod ends. Do you have a pic of the Fredilink? I haven't heard of it
This is the Fredilink, can be straight drilled or Chevrolet TRE taper, so I figure I could do stonecrusher steering but i might need to lift more/change pitman arm unless I get a tube bender. seems like less $$ and work to make stonecrusher with a 20$ fredilink then spend the money on superrunner and modify it from the box.

*Image of Fredilink
 


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