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Starter Motor Broken Stud


The_Epsicle

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1994 Ranger, 4.0, auto tranny, auto 4x4

I don't have an actual picture of the damage but here's a stock photo. The stud I circled in red came off. It didn't break off, it just came off when I tightened the nut back on it. Can I fix this or do I need a new starter motor. Also what does the wire that goes to that stud do?

 


bf750

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you need a new solenoid.and that stud kicks starter in
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Tho I don't have personal experience, I think it looks like it does the same thing as the solenoid [relay] on the side of most ford trucks I owned. The stud you are pointing at would be keyed power with power being supplied when the key is turned to start. This activates the mechanical relay [solenoid] to pass full amp battery power to the starter.
edit; bf750 is correct in that the solenoid also kicks the overrunning clutch drive [bendix] into contact with the flexplate/flywheel.

If that stud unscrewed then I would guess it should screw back in. I also think that it should have two nuts. One is to lock the stud in place, the other to hold the keyed power wire on. Perhaps you accidentally unscrewed the locking nut?
 
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The_Epsicle

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The stud had a plate on the back of it kinda like a washer with three divots arranged equidistant around the plate. Those three divots matched up with three divots in the starter motor as you can see in this picture. You can't see it here, but there is no portion of the stud broke off in that hole, and there was no room for a nut on the back. I think I could just solder it back on but I'm afraid that would create more problems. I can't get a picture of the stud until morning because it is stuck to the wire under my vehicle.

 

alwaysFlOoReD

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It was probably spot welded then. You should be able to get a new solenoid and r+r it. If you have access with a long screwdriver, you can jump across the two large studs to activate the starter. Be careful because you will be crossing with the full battery power and you could weld the screwdriver to ground.

Right now I use a pry bar to start my lawnmower with a similar solenoid system. The switch is FUBAR.

Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk
 

The_Epsicle

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It was probably spot welded then. You should be able to get a new solenoid and r+r it. If you have access with a long screwdriver, you can jump across the two large studs to activate the starter. Be careful because you will be crossing with the full battery power and you could weld the screwdriver to ground.

Right now I use a pry bar to start my lawnmower with a similar solenoid system. The switch is FUBAR.

Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk
Thanks for the help, I looked up on Rock Auto for a new solenoid and it doesn't have the stud on it. Instead it has a wire connector with a ton of solder on it I think I could manage the same thing on mine now that it's out of the vehicle. I know it's not an incredibly expensive part but I'm starting to sink a lot of money into this failed motor pulling project and I don't see a reason why this wouldn't work. Do you?

 

ratdude747

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Thanks for the help, I looked up on Rock Auto for a new solenoid and it doesn't have the stud on it. Instead it has a wire connector with a ton of solder on it I think I could manage the same thing on mine now that it's out of the vehicle. I know it's not an incredibly expensive part but I'm starting to sink a lot of money into this failed motor pulling project and I don't see a reason why this wouldn't work. Do you?

I wonder if that's not a true stock picture, but a picture of a similar unit.

Yes you might be able to jury rig a crimp on your solenoid. Then again, depending on why that stud came off you might be wasting good effort after bad. Was there a lot of corrosion in the area? If so, I'd just replace the solenoid as the internals might be just as bad.
 

Mark_88

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I would be more concerned with the internals of the relay. I've had them arc internally which allowed the starter to continue cranking until the battery power was disconnected...and that is a real safety hazard because I actually went into panic mode the first time it happened and could have made some serious mistakes in dealing with the problem...

Just so you know...there is the potential for it to jam the starter...the only way to stop that is to yank the battery cable...unless you have another way of killing power.

I started keeping a 1/2" wrench under the hood by the battery so I could quick disconnect if needed...
 

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I'd give solder a chance. Use silver solder or if you can do it without damaging the plastic[?], braze it.
 

The_Epsicle

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I soldered it today, with silver solder as per alwaysFlOoReD's suggestion and it's holding good, I'll let you guys know how the motor operates when I get the truck to the point it can be started. I'm not concerned about the internals of the solenoid because it was operating perfectly before this happened, and there was no corrosion on the solenoid or the motor housing. I'm pretty sure the stud breaking free was a result of over torquing. I believe "snug" only counts when cuddling, so I went to town on that thing and broke it... :icon_twisted:

I went easier when reinstalling it today.
 

ratdude747

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I soldered it today, with silver solder as per alwaysFlOoReD's suggestion and it's holding good, I'll let you guys know how the motor operates when I get the truck to the point it can be started. I'm not concerned about the internals of the solenoid because it was operating perfectly before this happened, and there was no corrosion on the solenoid or the motor housing. I'm pretty sure the stud breaking free was a result of over torquing. I believe "snug" only counts when cuddling, so I went to town on that thing and broke it... :icon_twisted:

I went easier when reinstalling it today.
Yeah the studs are riveted, and if you go super ape tight you'll bust them. If the rest looks good, I'd have soldered it, too. Best of luck.
 

ElectraRider

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solder it. Use soldering iron and not torch. Rosin core would be best and good luck.
 

The_Epsicle

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The solder worked, I have a solid connection and the truck starts right up. It's not my best looking solder job, but I'm not planning on entering the truck in a beauty contest any time soon. Thanks for spitballing with me, everyone.
 

Mark_88

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Good stuff...:icon_thumby:
 

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