• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Starter Motor Broken Stud

The_Epsicle

New Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2015
Messages
387
Reaction score
1
Points
0
Location
State of Boredom (Nebraska)
Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
4.0 Pushrod V6
Transmission
Automatic
My credo
All hail the mighty ziptie!
1994 Ranger, 4.0, auto tranny, auto 4x4

I don't have an actual picture of the damage but here's a stock photo. The stud I circled in red came off. It didn't break off, it just came off when I tightened the nut back on it. Can I fix this or do I need a new starter motor. Also what does the wire that goes to that stud do?

 


Rock Auto 5% Discount Code: BD8D9A3814E19D Expires July 5th, 2022

bf750

Member
V8 Engine Swap
Joined
Jul 29, 2014
Messages
191
Reaction score
11
Points
18
Location
Ky
Vehicle Year
1988
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
V8
Engine Size
2. Crap
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
33 1250 15
My credo
It is what it is
you need a new solenoid.and that stud kicks starter in
 

alwaysFlOoReD

Forum Staff Member
Forum Moderator
TRS Banner 2012-2015
TRS 20th Anniversary
Joined
Apr 13, 2009
Messages
11,783
Reaction score
2,699
Points
113
Location
Calgary, Canada
Vehicle Year
'91, '80, '06
Make / Model
Ford, GMC,Dodge
Engine Size
4.0,4.0,5.7
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tho I don't have personal experience, I think it looks like it does the same thing as the solenoid [relay] on the side of most ford trucks I owned. The stud you are pointing at would be keyed power with power being supplied when the key is turned to start. This activates the mechanical relay [solenoid] to pass full amp battery power to the starter.
edit; bf750 is correct in that the solenoid also kicks the overrunning clutch drive [bendix] into contact with the flexplate/flywheel.

If that stud unscrewed then I would guess it should screw back in. I also think that it should have two nuts. One is to lock the stud in place, the other to hold the keyed power wire on. Perhaps you accidentally unscrewed the locking nut?
 
Last edited:

The_Epsicle

New Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2015
Messages
387
Reaction score
1
Points
0
Location
State of Boredom (Nebraska)
Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
4.0 Pushrod V6
Transmission
Automatic
My credo
All hail the mighty ziptie!
The stud had a plate on the back of it kinda like a washer with three divots arranged equidistant around the plate. Those three divots matched up with three divots in the starter motor as you can see in this picture. You can't see it here, but there is no portion of the stud broke off in that hole, and there was no room for a nut on the back. I think I could just solder it back on but I'm afraid that would create more problems. I can't get a picture of the stud until morning because it is stuck to the wire under my vehicle.

 

alwaysFlOoReD

Forum Staff Member
Forum Moderator
TRS Banner 2012-2015
TRS 20th Anniversary
Joined
Apr 13, 2009
Messages
11,783
Reaction score
2,699
Points
113
Location
Calgary, Canada
Vehicle Year
'91, '80, '06
Make / Model
Ford, GMC,Dodge
Engine Size
4.0,4.0,5.7
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
It was probably spot welded then. You should be able to get a new solenoid and r+r it. If you have access with a long screwdriver, you can jump across the two large studs to activate the starter. Be careful because you will be crossing with the full battery power and you could weld the screwdriver to ground.

Right now I use a pry bar to start my lawnmower with a similar solenoid system. The switch is FUBAR.

Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk
 

The_Epsicle

New Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2015
Messages
387
Reaction score
1
Points
0
Location
State of Boredom (Nebraska)
Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
4.0 Pushrod V6
Transmission
Automatic
My credo
All hail the mighty ziptie!
It was probably spot welded then. You should be able to get a new solenoid and r+r it. If you have access with a long screwdriver, you can jump across the two large studs to activate the starter. Be careful because you will be crossing with the full battery power and you could weld the screwdriver to ground.

Right now I use a pry bar to start my lawnmower with a similar solenoid system. The switch is FUBAR.

Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk
Thanks for the help, I looked up on Rock Auto for a new solenoid and it doesn't have the stud on it. Instead it has a wire connector with a ton of solder on it I think I could manage the same thing on mine now that it's out of the vehicle. I know it's not an incredibly expensive part but I'm starting to sink a lot of money into this failed motor pulling project and I don't see a reason why this wouldn't work. Do you?

 

ratdude747

Member
Supporting Member
Article Contributor
TRS 20th Anniversary
Joined
Aug 10, 2014
Messages
494
Reaction score
21
Points
18
Age
29
Location
Madison, IN
Vehicle Year
1995
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0L
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Tire Size
215/70R15
Thanks for the help, I looked up on Rock Auto for a new solenoid and it doesn't have the stud on it. Instead it has a wire connector with a ton of solder on it I think I could manage the same thing on mine now that it's out of the vehicle. I know it's not an incredibly expensive part but I'm starting to sink a lot of money into this failed motor pulling project and I don't see a reason why this wouldn't work. Do you?

I wonder if that's not a true stock picture, but a picture of a similar unit.

Yes you might be able to jury rig a crimp on your solenoid. Then again, depending on why that stud came off you might be wasting good effort after bad. Was there a lot of corrosion in the area? If so, I'd just replace the solenoid as the internals might be just as bad.
 

Mark_88

New Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2007
Messages
18,550
Reaction score
228
Points
0
Age
66
Location
Ontario, Canada
Vehicle Year
2007
Make / Model
Dordge
Engine Size
3.3 Fuel Injected
Transmission
Automatic
My credo
Love Thy Neighbor
I would be more concerned with the internals of the relay. I've had them arc internally which allowed the starter to continue cranking until the battery power was disconnected...and that is a real safety hazard because I actually went into panic mode the first time it happened and could have made some serious mistakes in dealing with the problem...

Just so you know...there is the potential for it to jam the starter...the only way to stop that is to yank the battery cable...unless you have another way of killing power.

I started keeping a 1/2" wrench under the hood by the battery so I could quick disconnect if needed...
 

alwaysFlOoReD

Forum Staff Member
Forum Moderator
TRS Banner 2012-2015
TRS 20th Anniversary
Joined
Apr 13, 2009
Messages
11,783
Reaction score
2,699
Points
113
Location
Calgary, Canada
Vehicle Year
'91, '80, '06
Make / Model
Ford, GMC,Dodge
Engine Size
4.0,4.0,5.7
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
I'd give solder a chance. Use silver solder or if you can do it without damaging the plastic[?], braze it.
 

The_Epsicle

New Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2015
Messages
387
Reaction score
1
Points
0
Location
State of Boredom (Nebraska)
Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
4.0 Pushrod V6
Transmission
Automatic
My credo
All hail the mighty ziptie!
I soldered it today, with silver solder as per alwaysFlOoReD's suggestion and it's holding good, I'll let you guys know how the motor operates when I get the truck to the point it can be started. I'm not concerned about the internals of the solenoid because it was operating perfectly before this happened, and there was no corrosion on the solenoid or the motor housing. I'm pretty sure the stud breaking free was a result of over torquing. I believe "snug" only counts when cuddling, so I went to town on that thing and broke it... :icon_twisted:

I went easier when reinstalling it today.
 

ratdude747

Member
Supporting Member
Article Contributor
TRS 20th Anniversary
Joined
Aug 10, 2014
Messages
494
Reaction score
21
Points
18
Age
29
Location
Madison, IN
Vehicle Year
1995
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0L
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Tire Size
215/70R15
I soldered it today, with silver solder as per alwaysFlOoReD's suggestion and it's holding good, I'll let you guys know how the motor operates when I get the truck to the point it can be started. I'm not concerned about the internals of the solenoid because it was operating perfectly before this happened, and there was no corrosion on the solenoid or the motor housing. I'm pretty sure the stud breaking free was a result of over torquing. I believe "snug" only counts when cuddling, so I went to town on that thing and broke it... :icon_twisted:

I went easier when reinstalling it today.
Yeah the studs are riveted, and if you go super ape tight you'll bust them. If the rest looks good, I'd have soldered it, too. Best of luck.
 

ElectraRider

Active Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2010
Messages
214
Reaction score
46
Points
28
Location
Colorado Springs Co.
Vehicle Year
1989 ,2000
Make / Model
Ford ,Ford
Engine Size
2.9 ,4.0
Transmission
Manual
solder it. Use soldering iron and not torch. Rosin core would be best and good luck.
 

The_Epsicle

New Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2015
Messages
387
Reaction score
1
Points
0
Location
State of Boredom (Nebraska)
Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
4.0 Pushrod V6
Transmission
Automatic
My credo
All hail the mighty ziptie!
The solder worked, I have a solid connection and the truck starts right up. It's not my best looking solder job, but I'm not planning on entering the truck in a beauty contest any time soon. Thanks for spitballing with me, everyone.
 

Mark_88

New Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2007
Messages
18,550
Reaction score
228
Points
0
Age
66
Location
Ontario, Canada
Vehicle Year
2007
Make / Model
Dordge
Engine Size
3.3 Fuel Injected
Transmission
Automatic
My credo
Love Thy Neighbor
Good stuff...:icon_thumby:
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Top